audio-neon

I'm really curious to when you acquired this and how much you are at the shows in this area. (i competed in street A with the black neon repping sundown audio at a few of the t-rex audio shows.) also assuming you know my spl mentor marty in the red mountaineer? Let me know how things work out for you this season, it was already pretty loud.

New old car still has factory deck... 1.5 din to work with, 6.75" door speaker opening factory in front doors. Target max budget, who cares, lol. Spent 6 grand last spring on my spl stint. 2grand seems like the max i'd be willing to spend on a beater tho. Any tweeter size limitations? I shouldn't have asked max, I really meant by what do you mean cheap max. You say $1k but it includes the amp and sub, I was referring to the "cheap" front stage portion. Also knowing the processing would help, I assume it is your 8455... Planning on fiberglassing door pods since i have tons of glass and stuff laying around. large format tweets should fit possibly even a 7" midrange. its all just in the thinking process i really hate having no sound though. I was thinking like 400 for the front soundstage, don't have any processing capabilities right now. I'll go look at decks and compare my options unless someone has an h701 with supporting deck for around 400-500$. I was thinking for subs i would once again bug my buddy jacob and try out 2 sd 10"s either isobaric or a small ported box tuned to 32hz.

This is because not only does air temperature affect humidity it also affects tuning frequency. I know when I metered my test car outside of competition it was in a garage and about 20* cooler inside, at competition i generally had to move my frequency up/down a tad to get the most out of my system. Temperature affects soo much in car audio. Colder wires can transfer energy better, colder amps perform better, colder motors are more efficient (from all testing that I have done from a pressure stand point), colder batteries should have a higher static charge etc.

From my view (and yes my car was never perfect electrically) your system is only as good as the weakest link. I'm at work and therefore not going to look at sub specs and do all of the math off of the top of my head. I would say if you plan on running the amp @ 1 ohm. that you will want a bare minimum of 1/0 gauge wire and the 240-250 alt should be fine for musical purposes. As far as batteries, have at least 1 really good battery and you should be fine as long as the car is running. Upgrade your grounds to 1/0 and make sure they are good grounds too.

Car, 1995 dodge neon pos with only 1 speaker still working. System at the moment none. Have a pair of memphis coax's in basement, and a diamond d1 10" woofer. I'm really just looking for decent sound without spending the money i'm used to spending on car audio until I buy a more permanent car (i.e. the camaro i'm still saving for).

Sounds like a fun project. and Hello

New old car still has factory deck... 1.5 din to work with, 6.75" door speaker opening factory in front doors. Target max budget, who cares, lol. Spent 6 grand last spring on my spl stint. 2grand seems like the max i'd be willing to spend on a beater tho.

Adrian_D, your money was always nice to me. paypal has issues.

I just thought i would say hello from the world of no car audio. MY polk db series speakers I gave my brother are finally starting to bite the dust (driving his car while saving up money for a new car). Thinking about a cheap upgrade... M5 got any ideas on a cheap sq set-up. You know my budget is whatever as long as i like the product... Thinking of doing something simple this time. Door pods/ 2 way passive fronts. Isobaric or something similar 10" sub enclosure for small footprint and sq. I'll have to call up jacob and see what I can do for amps... small spring project, lets say starter budget. $1,000. Looking to work on a low powered system (100x4 amp like the sax-100.4 for all of it).

I would personally go with a small ported enclosure for the "kick factor". If you wanted loud uncontrolled bass large ported is where I would go. Still haven't gotten my free icon yet. *teasing* but before I did the spl thing, i was really loving small sealed ported enclosures tuned to 30hz.

It sounds louder after your car heats up because the air is less dense. It's the same effect that opening a window has, less pressure= louder. Basically for a given amount of work you get x amount pressure, y amount sound and z amount thermal waste. SO denser air= more pressure and less sound. When it comes to subs and freezing the motors its all about thermal efficiency. Colder motors are more efficient. *note that my statements may or may not use the proper scientific terms*

Jacob has the best customer service in the business hands down. I know when I do get around to competing again Jacob will be the first person I call for equipment.

Jacob has time and again even replied to my emails on a Sunday, I stand behind the guy anyday of the week and twice on Sunday.

As far as running a pair of Saz-1500d's strapped on a 1 ohm nominal load with a weak electrical system. I have done it. Do I reccomend it, no. I gained almost 4db when using a battery bank and h/o alt (powered off of one of my friends rigs for testing). At comps I was sitting a 12.2 v static, It took less than 8 seconds to drop into the tens, and this is with the gains turned down quite a bit. Good luck and I hope things work out for you.

my amps have been benched all the way down to .25 ohms without being too protection happy, although in my car, it is around .5 ohms each that they get a little happy. They draw soo much current on a test tone that in about 1.5 seconds everything shuts off.

to SSA!

to SSA

Just to let you guys know, this car is for sale, as is for 3 grand. Picked up. has 128,xxx miles on it. You get the amps, the subs, the headunit, even the ipod adaptor, and a compustar pro ssr alarm start (not installed). The car was inspected in February of 07, it is currently running fine. I love it and all but want something different. Just look at it this way, You are buying 1200$ retail in amps, 350 in subs, 250 in components, over 600 dollars in wiring, a 500$ headunit, which still sells for around 300. Basically you are buying the system, and the car comes with it. Any offers can be pm'd to me, I check SSA daily. Come on, who doesn't want a free car with every system purchase? lol.

Sundown saz-1500d will get you close ~1800 watts into 1 ohm at 14.4v. email ssa for best price. Soundstream PCA2000D The hifonics bxi2006/ 2607? Orion HCCA-D2400 Another option is two decent 1kw amplifiers such as two sae-1000d's from sundown audio. There are also other companies which I don't have price sheets sitting in front of me for. I would also look into US Amps (contact member named flakko) American Bass

I am sure that there are plenty of good 2kw amps out there for 700$. Are you looking for new/used. And @ what impedance are you looking for that wattage?

I wonder who the noob was who used two different colored fuses on his eclipse ea4000 before he sold it to you... oh wait. It was me. Glad it found a new home.

I would say it probably does between 1300-1400 watts @ 1.5 ohms. Maybe even 1500, but I haven't benched mine at that high of an impedance.

I was doing 140 with two 10" sound quality woofers and a 1500d.... now I am around 144..x on two 1500d's... And I have frameless windows to combat.

Jacob, I have a feeling that I might be adding a few of these to my collection after my car gets sold.

140? with two 12"s... ouch.