Big E
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Everything posted by Big E
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Do we get one entry for each person we refer? -
Fi BTL, Sundown Nightshade, and Mach5 SPL all can take a good beatin'.
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Sound deadening starts tomorrow, but I got a call from the vet with my dog's blood work-up and it's not good He has to be put down tomorrow so I don't know how far I'm going to get.
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I've waited til I accumulated almost all of the parts before making this build log. This is my 1999 Chevy Blazer ZR2: I got it right around 2 months ago, and have been slowly accumulating audio parts for it. I took care of the important things first (fluid flushes, new hoses, new filters, oil change, fix rear differential leak, etc) so it took a bit longer than expected. The truck itself has a 2" shackle drop and nearly as much torsion bar crank and 31" Cooper STTs. I haven't had the time to take her off-road yet, but that's going to change very soon . The equipment list is as follows: Sundown SAX 100.2 Sundown SAE-1000D SSA Icon 15D2 Polk MOMO 6.5" Components Alpine CDA-9811 (Soon to be upgraded) Kicker 0 ga. Hyperflex, 16 ga. speaker wire, K-series interconnects, battery terminals Optima Yellowtop 125 sq.ft RAAMmat 4 yards Ensolite Pics of equip: (Apparently I never took pics of the headunit or subwoofer...so I'll add those once I get the speakers on Saturday.) The box for the sub will hopefully be built in the next few days. It's going to be 4 ft^3 @ 30hz.
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Are you putting the PowerMaster in your trunk, or just replacing the stocker. The only reason you would run a ground from your battery to your trunk is if you're adding a second battery.
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Still awaiting pics...
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General rule of thumb is that you only need half the port area if you use aero ports.
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This isn't CA.com...please keep your useless spam there.
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Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to. I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some. Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power. If i have one side running off 100 watts passive (Ch 1), the tweeter itself is not getting a full 100 watts. It would be if it had its own channel No, you don't understand. The tweeter will NOT see any more power by having its own channel. The power is NOT split by the crossover.
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Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to. I agree, I just have to find strong enough tweeters to take ~100 watts, thats why im passive right now unti I find some. Your tweeter isn't going to see any more power by having its own channel. Crossovers split the frequency; not the power.
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Since you have the ability, I would definitely run actively. That way your mids and highs can sound exactly how you want them to.
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Why would you bridge the channels? Just use channels one and two and ignore three and four. You don't need more than 100 watts per side. Unless you mean you want to run actively, with one speaker on each channel. If that's the case, then you put your tweeters on channels one and two, and put your mids on three and four. As far as the RCAs, I'm not sure; I've never worked with a 4 channel amp.
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mostly rap & r&b Well you're definitely looking for a ported box then. The SSDs should do just fine for ya.
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I'd go with whichever you can find cheaper. I have ZERO complaints about my 15" Icon
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Could be quite a few things...bad serpentine belt, loose pulley...etc etc. Vid of sound and better description of the sound would help.
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Why do you say that? They both have the same power handling, and with 750 watts each the 15" will move just fine. Not to mention he'd have more surface area with the 15s.
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http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/amplifiers/TC3001.cfm prices: http://catalog.ebay.com/MTX-TC3001-Car-Aud...2464633QQ_tabZ2
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It doesn't keep road noise OUT either. Sound deadening kills the rattles. Open cell fabrics (Ensolite, Overkill, etc) are what kill airborne sounds.
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If you haven't realized by now, just about everything is quite a bit cheaper on the internet. You don't have to deal with all the middlemen which is why it's so much cheaper. When you buy locally, they have to pay all the people that work for them, on top of the cost of the bumper and the shipping for the bumper, so they need to mark it up (sometimes as high as 50%). If you're getting around the same price quotes from two different companies, then I would say $275 is right around the actual cost of the bumper when you cut out the middleman.
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DB-r uses all original parts...so the refurb will have the exact same parts as a regular 3000D
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Circuit City - Home Entertainment Sales
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Why you don't need a capacitor. That thread helped explain a lot to me. It's a LONG read but it's WELL worth it.
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If you get some quotes, please let me know what you get quoted. I drive a 99 Blazer with the same engine and I'll be looking for a 200 amp alternator as well in the coming month(s). I was considering Excessive Amperage and PowerMaster. I've heard Iraggi is on and off and I haven't heard a whole lot about ohio generators, mean green, or knukonceptz alternators.
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one pops the other one doesnt. The same one that gave an error on the multimeter, correct?