shizzzon

When you say "stay safe"... can I still have unprotected sex??? Hell NO! We aint havin sex protected or not... that's not the proper way for us to bond on our bday

what was your electrical system and what size stetsom is that? What were u doing when it did that?

yes and yes The end.. again.

i know how those amps are strapped. run rcas from headunit to Amp #1 Amp #1 needs to be set to MASTER Run single rca line from amp #1 to amp #2 (the strap output from master to strap input on slave) Amp #2 needs to be set to SLAVE Turn all settings on SLAVE all the way down (not necessary but doesn't hurt) Master controls both amp's settings. Now, each amp has 2 sets of + and - speaker terminals. Take BOTH - terminals from MASTER and run them to the SLAVE's - terminals, both of them! Now, you have 2 + and 2 + on master and slave. It doesn't really matter which is which but i'll make you choose for this example. The MASTER's remaining + terminals ARE positive output. The SLAVE's remaining + terminals ARE negative output. The End

Kickers are more efficient than Sundown amps... As a matter of fact, many long time sundown amp owners will even tell you that sundown isn't the most efficient amps they have used.. It's nothing bad, it's not like they are class ab efficient, hehe, but they are not on the top of the list of efficiency. You want some REAL efficient amps... Stetsom is by far the most efficient. Cadence and Kicker are way up there too.

this is getting blown WAY out of proportion... Get your setup installed, THEN monitor and measure voltage drop, quit playing the speculation or guessing game. When you see your voltage dropping below 13v more often then not when jamming WHILE driving, then get a 2nd batt back there from XS Power. IF your voltage is still dropping below 13v WHILE driving, get an alt around 180A, but no lower from DC Power or Mechman.

lol, that's the factory wire harness, not the charging line... Read up on sending 90A of current safely through a wire.. those little ones aren't going to do it. And most stock wiring configs force the alternator to ground through brackets, not wiring. So, for a good experience lesson, take a DMM, set it to DC volts. Put power probe on that large terminal on the alernator and ground probe on ground post on battery. IF it reads voltage, tada! that is your power charging cable post on alternator which i can guarantee you it is anyway.

more than likely no because the front battery rarely ever gets used for the car audio equipment in the rear when at least one or more batts in the rear are used.

your pics are NOT public so it's useless to us..

first off.. how do you know your remote wire is grounding? 2nd, is your voltmeter connected to your amp? If it is then what pwoer and remote wire connected together makes the voltmeter work? the meter or amp? u also have commas in wrong places which makes your sentences unable to be read so i can't comprehend most of it.

so where is this pic at? Either your alternator is TEENY TINY, this adapter is freakin humungous, or you are looking at it wrong.

um dual 1 ohm cant be wired at 1ohm so he's looking at the right type of amp...

i'm assuming these speakers were attached to the headunit? That's partly why they would distort right there.. not enough amp on those speakers. Also, any increase of the bass or EQ settings on headunit will greatly distort them.

yea, if i choose to use SSF, i'll take my tuning, and use a test tone about 10hz below that. Turn SSF all the way UP, headunit to max playable volume. While tone is playing, i start slowly turning it down until either sub bottoms out, i do not want it moving any more, or to prevent it from breaking out of xmax... whatever ur goal is.

Have a Fintastic Birthday!

i just wanted to let you all know that as of last saturday thru tuesday, my car had malfunctioned at least once every day... I then wire brushed the battery posts and ring terminals. The ring terminals looked fine before i did it and the battery posts really didnt change appearance after brushing them.. But after plugging everything back up, i havent had a problem within the last three days and i've started\shutdown and drove it a LOT since then without faults! So.. unless i post back in here about a problem, it appears an invisible layer on the battery posts was the problem.

Sounds like tinsel leads are the weakest link.. yet again. I would contact FI or PSI about reconing this sub.. FI uses some damn good flatwound leads and PSI can get u hooked up with Quad leads as well...

YES, and imperative that u understand the following- While disconnected... if these batts keep dropping.. no charger will help.. Batts that keep dropping have at least one bad cell and any batt that has any bad cell(s) needs to be discarded immediately... Sorry, but i'm only trying to save you money.. It may not seem like it if ur batts will or are doing this but no good batt continues to drop rest voltage unless it's bad...

I'm gonna try and set your hopeful answer right... Performance AND sound quality.. that's hard to do.. I've never heard a BL in person but i do know that FI focuses on sound quality first, numbers second...if u know what i mean. With that in mind.. it's hard to answer your question. I don't disrespect FI's goals as they are what they should be but i think you may be expecting to find something that may not exist. Basically, if you find something that fits this thread, then your definition of sound quality doesn't equal FI's or mine or others who did not post...

trust me.. ANY AGM battery, regardless of capacity(which is good practice for safe operation) that is resting at 12.6v or lower needs to be COMPLETELY disconnected from car and charged via AGM battery charger. No if ands or buts.. trust me on this. An alternator is a MAINTAINER, not battery charger. Alternator is suited to maintain the charged capacity of your batteries installed. If it tried to be used as a charger, the Bridge Rectifier inside if worked for too long can overheat and start burning out diodes... If this happens.. u are done... seriously.. alternator slowly dying... So don't do that. If u need advice on a good charger, let me know. Sears sells one locally for around $90 that i personally own that works GREAT!

Hard to find HD backgrounds u say? I own the entire Digital Blasphemy Collection which is a LOT of backgrounds all in HD. I even have some of their animated HD backgrounds which is insane. If you want some killer backgrounds, look them up.

Well, i can tell you the battery, alternator and connection from alt to batt and connection from batt to factory power wire is solid. I get no drop in voltage measuring all over the terminals or the post on the battery when the terminals are removed. I've been leaning towards ignition switch too since i do have a remote start if this problem persists... i havent checked the fuses under the hood but that's easy to do.. Once i remove the solenoids, if it keeps doing it, i'll check those things.

Of course i must only do one thing at a time... I have started and shut off the car multiple times and drove it few minutes ago.. No odd problems yet.. autozone couldnt pull any codes off of it if there are any because there tester is damaged, lol. But.. a guy there did inform me that even though i disconnected the ground off the solenoids to go back and remove all wiring from them.. He thinks it's possible that solenoids could back feed thru the cables (which uses both ignition and constant on) and cause havoc. So tonight or tomorrow i'm going to remove the entire solenoid system since i will not be using it anymore anyways.

well.. on my way home from work today, my tire pressure sensor came on for 2 seconds then went right back off.. Nothing else happened, no surge, no other electrical things happened... AND, when TPS does get triggered.. it never goes off on it's own so i don't know what was up with that... I took the battery terminals off, cleaned the post off with wire brush, cleaned inside of the terminals and put it back together... the battery posts have a bright shiny surface to them but also looks like something was attached to them and turned round and round both posts creating grooves all in them. The brush just made the posts shine more so i did a light brushing on them. There were no signs of arcing inside the terminals at all, completely clean in there.

mine are installed right behind the kick panels. If you do not have room there, shove them up under the dash on both sides of the car.