shizzzon

lol, they already did a 176.x with a single XL.. it's not the equipment u use as much as the install.. They clearily showed how an XL was LOUDER than a 99Z.. wanna debate that? because i do not... Honestly nobody does because it's pointless.. equipment is not as important as the install, the end..

that's not bad sag at all... Now let's see what it does when you are pulling 1800A of current.. oh wait.. nvm, i'll just let u guys know when i buy my XP, hehe.

the 1st guy is actually putting out less power, but will clamp in peak hold as if he's putting out more.

ok, since we agree, check this out- So you already know that the "clamped numbers" they are saying is actually higher than it really is... This can cause concern for putting people in too high of a class. Well, you can't use the argument they do it for everybody.. why? here is a great example- Just gonna make up somethin here.. Let's say 2 people were tryin to be in this 1800-3600w class. the first guy has 2 Fi SSDs ran off of 2 sundown 3500s strapped @2ohm. the 2nd guy has 4 Fi SSDs ran off of 2 sundown 3500s strapped @2ohm Assuming they had the same electrical and impedance curve, the 1st guy with the 2 SSDs will clamp WAY more power out than the first guy. Why? Because 2 ssds will go into insane power compression which will cause a massive increase in impedance. From the beginning to the end of the clamp during the burp, the voltage and amperage would have peaked at different times resulting in a false peak and higher than actual wattage output.

all this 160 nonsense, lol.. Just wait til the end of this year or at the most next SBN... Clay has already announced the goal of breaking the first 180 with a single sub from DC Soundlab... And.... The first EVER 170 dB bassrace... Think they can do it? We shall see..

I have gotten in debates with SPLeague as they know how these clamping classes work... They set the meters to peak hold.. that is UNFAIR! The meters will peak at different times resulting in the judge mis-understanding what just happened and saying the equipment put out a LOT more power than what it really did. Example- Let's say you have an amp that is wired to 1 ohm and is putting out 90v\90a. Well, at full tilt, it will not put out that voltage because of the low wiring load, it will put stress on the voltage rails and cause it to sag. So let's say it is putting out 90A because the least resistance is built at the beginning of the burp. Now, the current will start to roll off because the sub is starting to heat up or the terminals are or it is clipping... When this happens, current will back off and voltage will start to rise... Now the dmm peaks at 90v but the current has dropped significantly... Resulting in a false output score by far. Meaning, you didn't put out that much power, it's less than that.

hmm... well Dc also has the Lvl6 which has been tested to handle 20,000w worth of amps per sub daily.. and it's only a 4" coil. Audiobahn uses a 6" coil i believe on one of their shallow mount type subs... It's been done.

I will sir on each side of the car.

dont worry, hehe, i have MANY anchor points in this car.. I'll be removing the headliner soon and then the car will be bare. floor, sides, top and angle iron in the back.. all anchor points.

well you'll never know at that point because you'll never see it once the wall is built.

i'm bout to glue the shit out of everything in a minute.

http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn147/shizzzon/?action=view&current=video-2011-04-19-11-33-37.mp4

not to be a dick or anything but if you are having erection problems... sub porn sure isn't gonna help..

u cant read ohms when amp is on.. it will shift constantly and can damage DMM too. You won't get 0.6 ohms resistance even when amp is off, lol... You are literally measuring right there at the connection point. resistance isn't measureable with a dmm.. not the case.

Something is WRONG... You cannot get 1.3ohms at the amp from 4 D2 subs... Assuming the DCR is ~1.3ohms, taking 2 pairs of these subs result in ~1.3 ohms PER pair... So wiring in parallel will result in- 0.7ohms and series- 2.6ohms.. If you are really reading 1.3 ohms, sounds like you may have a short somewhere and will need to pull ALL subs out and disconnect them and test each one individually for coil damage.

and the only welder that's been used on this car is a mig welder. it works perfectly fine with the steel i'm using. The flooring is mig welded and dead level right now.

yea, i would have welded steel to steel whenever i have the chance but time is of the essence and i dont have access to a welder 24\7 so when i need to adhere... if the welder isn't here, glue it is... I am still debating on running a bolt through the steel to steel part and just drilling out a hole for the side walls to go around the bolt head but just havent got to that part yet.

x100000 Rather my amp go into protect than not and blow something. In the lanes though.... I don't care where i am. Still would rather it go into protect than break something. You are misunderstanding my point. I'm not suggesting other amps are too loose on protection, i'm saying SA's are TOO sensitive based on several i've messed with in installs. An amp shouldnt go in protect because of a heavy clipped signal or because strapping them causes instability.. (3 users vehicles have had problems strapping 2000, 1500 and 4500) Direct amp swaps solves the problems in testing... Even the oh so called low end amps, Audiopipe doesn't have this problem. The point is a dirty signal or just plain strapping isn't going to damage the amp.. just too sensitive. I gave up when i witnessed a pair of 1500s strapped go in protect when NOTHING was even playing, hu was on pause... Voltage was checked immediately, over 13v at the amp's terminals and then shut vehicle off, tested DCR= 0.9 ohms strapped. That is still safe operation for these amps. Turned the vehicle back on and played fine.. didnt go back in protect.. Just random stuff i've witnessed... Hank with the 48 10s had his amps all go in protect at Carl Casper because he turned it up to loud? That isn't acceptable in this hobby..

thats because no one has the ability to help me when i build these things.. therefore all the work u see in my car is always done by just me...

it sounds like u need someone else to do what i said. specs on ur equipment are irrelovant for this conversation, but rather how the wiring config and settings are.

u have a DMM? Measure DCR at the amp's terminals and make sure it's reading higher than 0.6 ohms Also, i have typically seen many SA amps go in protect because of a light clipped signal. I would check to see if u are driving the amp with a clipped signal. They are real touchy when u aren't running clean all the time.

welcome to spl... Hopefully you will get to hear mine this year

problem with this install is that volume is against me and that's something i have to combat. So in doing so, i must attempt to save the most volume possible for this build. The last wall i did, i didnt do that and wasnt too impressed with it but then again i wasnt expecting much since i built it to learn off of. the steel is the base to attach the walls to so securing it via screws would allow the screws to protrude in front of the steel which won't be a good idea. This install is.. different because to retain volume, the least amount of structural support is to be used.

also, let me tell you what's goin on so u may understand better. Even if the wood was attached, i still couldnt screw together. That steel u see, that is the base for the side walls to be attached to. how? With this 2part glue and screws and a lot of foam... again, to fill in the small cavities once the side walls go up. Since the 2x4s in the back are not attached but rather pressurized in the space behind the side walls, they will still aid in bracing the walls. the steel is there to help minimize the flex the side walls may want to move and the 2x4s and foam are there to help prevent the steel from flexing. There will also be steel ran inside the walls of this wall too to help prevent the wall from flexing inwards as well.

that wood in there isn't attached to anything. It's just used as a filler just like the foam is, that's why. It wouldnt structurally help by screwing it together. I need to continue to fill the area back there with foam. I do this little by little until there is enough pressure on the outside shell of the car. Right now, the exterior part of the car is pretty damn stiff! hehe, but there is just a minor amount of movement still left in the wood when i hit the car real hard. Once it stops moving, then i'll quit foaming.