shizzzon

hey, that looks like my sketchup file? How ironic, Sounds like u gettin there perfectly. before u get too excited, if i didnt tell u a long time ago, when making the plug for the top half of the port, make sure the pieces that slide in those slits are just slightly smaller than perfect because if those pieces are about a perfect match for those slits i showed u a long time ago, once u force it in.. it isn't commin out without a WAR! so ease just a little on those pieces so it's an easy slide in and out, but not so easy it just falls out, lol.

that's because the tv is so damn hot!

After talking with some people i know and explaining to them what happens to a box when it is exhibited with 155db+, i finally started to get some tips on making our boxes stronger and in the direction of less flex. Cars like mine have not as much room as other cars do of like size. My car for example is impossible to stack 2 15s on top of each other in a wall... that's not fair, hehe. So, the point i'm making is in order for someone like me to get a monsterous build in my car, like anyone else, it requires a monsterous build with monsterous bracing techniques. Most people who are way up there in the competition lanes are using concrete, sand, multi + multi + multi layers of mdf, welded steel frames, 2x4s around the entire enclosure, etc... While all of these techniques yield great bracing, there are two drawbacks, weight and the ability to undo changes 100% to the car. Now, i have the task in my car to try and get what i want in my car but be able to come up with bracing tactics that do not require a lot of space being lost in the car. This is where it gets tricky. How tricky? My current wall is only a SINGLE layer of mdf with a double baffle but with my current bracing techniques, i am able to pull off over 155db in the kick... The rear wall flexes like an earthquake but i get the score done! This is not acceptable when it comes to increasing my score though and other methods, new methods to me, are to be tried. Before i begin, just put this into your subconscious- Resin is my friend.. resin is my friend... i cannot do anything without my resin ok, my current wall consists of 3\4" all thread ran through the front baffle in 3 places and through the rear in the center. It runs in other places but this will talk about just the rear wall since it is suffering the most. I also have flat steel runs on the rear wall bolted through to the other side.. This is NOT helping whatsoever... I was also told if i got some more flat steel and bolted both pieces from inside to outside to each other.. it wouldnt make a single difference either. 1st suggestion - counter-brace the connection by running the inside steel vertical and the outside steel horizontal... This offers more surface area. While sitting there talking about some other methods.. we finally came across a method that sounds interesting. We all know that steel square tubing is virtually unflexible since it's bent into a square... Well, first thought was just to attach this tuning to the inside and outside counter-bracing with bolts but that wouldnt work as well as expected because only where the bolts are is where the brace is effective! Any space between the wood and steel that is not bolted will be able to flex under high pressure.. So how do we overcome such obstacle? Resin is my friend resin is my friend. After talking about it for a while, we came up with this solution- Let's say we have a wall that is 36" tall and 36" wide. We have 1" steel square tubing and a bucket of resin and lots of bolts and washers and nuts. We will be counter-bracing the steel bars. Inside, vertically installed, will be 4 runs from top to bottom and outside will be 4 horizontal runs from top to bottom. This is how it will look but not the complete process. (You will need to predrill ALL connection points prior to preparing resin or u may lower the strength of this method when trying to run bolts) Get some resin and hardner ready(use long pot life)... Apply small amounts at one time, enough for only 1 bar at a time. Find where u are going to be mounting the bar, make the resin like you normally would, not too too gooey and apply it to the wall section that the steel bar will be placed at. Make sure you place PLENTY of resin in this small area from top to bottom. You want the steel bar to actually rest in it. Once you have enough on there, place the steel bar on this resin and allow the resin to completely fill any pours and gaps between the wood and this steel bar. Now do this to the rest of the internal runs which is 3 left. Once they are all done, go to the outside and run resin over all the marks for horizontal runs and when applying the steel bars to the outside, start running all your bolts through the outer bar, through the wood, through the inner steel bar and out of that. This way, when the resin offically dries and cures, the bolts are now a part of the bonding. The bolts are also to help you not have to hold it while you prepare the other 3 horizontal runs too. Now, once all 8 bars have been set in place and bolts have been ran through, go ahead and tighten the hell out of these bolts. Once they are all tight, now we get some more resin together. Once the new batch is ready, apply this resin over aLL bars and along the sides. Goal - to ensure that the resin will cure between the wood and steel, and along both sides of the steel to the wood AND to have a nice smooth roll off from all steel bars so there are not sharp edges which could cause turbulence inside. If you want an even stronger brace, for all steel bars to be used, weld adjacent steel bar runs before applying the bars one at a time(may require more than 1 person to help you work) so that steel bars can be bracing more than 1 wall at a time once all resin is dried and cured. You can also use wood instead of steel of competing in classes that do not allow steel. This will prevent the wood from flexing away from the inner steel and into the outer steel when done right, when using enough resin. You can also attach another layer of mdf in front of the steel tubing inside for a perfect flat wall. Once the resin dries, the material used for bracing will have bonded to the wood at every point possible. And yes... this will be something i'll be doing soon. Welcome to competition

lol, that's a good one!

u gonna have to turn those preouts down some. Don't wanna risk on damaging some of the inputs on these amps! Sundown's accept 6v max and Audiopipe accept 5v max. What u tryin to do, kill us all?!?!

yea but Ben is already gettin a new deck anyway, that slide out IVA deck.

Welcome

What is your budget, that will narrow the results down real quick. We would need to know what all is needed to be purchased too. As far as i know, u will need the sub(s), amp, wiring for both and box built. I can say that stock electrical system should be able to handle up to 1,000w.

when used properly, that 400A rating is probably rated for short burst current.

when do u all wanna redo the tests? I just crank the gains to max and play at the same volume level.. whichever one enellz was runnin at. I can sit here and say that the Sundown is more than likely cleaner than the audiopipe but we are about power... Hell if u want, get ben back out there and he'll do a meter for both amps to see which of the 2 meter higher.

nope, can't get my amp out of the car... Besides if i could easily, i could meter it easily. That amp comparison test was already done anyway a while back. I don't know efficiency outcome but i do know the Sundown put out more power which i knew it would anyways.

we were talkin about testin an AQ3500D and postin it up here but the way how mine are mounted.. it's tricky to get any readings off of it. If i do get a test off of it, i'll sure post it up here.

have u tried sub back\up\forward and port to the side?

no, port area is port area. You can use 25sqin of port per cube instead of 16 for daily if u want too.. it's just not necessary. Since the meter can read changes in pressure down to 0.01db, it's necessary. For those who compete a lot, we can distinguish changes with our own ears by about 2db, that's a huge difference. Since larger ports may increase spl, it may not do it enough for our ears to notice a difference so it's not used for daily use.

i wouldnt suggest the 12 even sealed based on the dimensions he posted because the sub would have to be mounted facing up or down firing and the amount of room between the magnet and the wall would be too close in my opinion just like the sub would be too close to the top or bottom of the trunk at the same time. Even a 10" is too large unless you can go 11" high.

since that shares the same look as an suv, you should do subs up, port back. We got a guy doin a 150.3 with 2 15s and a 3000w amp right now in an suv so it's easily possible with a little work.

powerbass is dual channel but internally bridged so actually just single channel. While it is true that the audiopipe does it's max at 2ohms rather than 1 ohm, u must also consider this- When we tested these 3 amps, the sundown AND powerbass had a nominal 1 ohm load(0.8DCR). The audiopipe had a nominal 2 ohm load(1.6ohms). so the test is fair between those 2 amps. I have seen that the higher amounts of power a sub is given(as long as it's not into power compression or excessive heat build up), the lower the impedance rise is. So by saying that, it's not uncommon to use a 2kw amp and have a rise from 0.7 to 2.3 ohms then turn right around and hookup a 4kw amp and rise from 0.7 to 1.8ohms...

it is a 2 channel class d amp. 1500w x 2 at 1 ohm on each channel or 3000w @ 2 ohms bridged.

Unfortunately, the sundown 3000w install was whack because the head unit's preouts were going crazy so the amp couldnt be turned up high enough for an accurate comparison. I will post spec of the amp anyway but shouldnt be compared 100% accurately because the volume level wasn't the same as the other 2. Sundown 3000d- Voltage - 11.8v Current Pull - 122A Wattage pull - 1440w Voltage Out - 18.6v Current Out - 64.6A Wattage Out - 1202w Actual Resistance - 3.47 Ohms Efficiency - 83.5% (Test not fair) Powerbass 3000D- Voltage - 12.15v Current Pull - 119A Wattage Pull - 1446w Voltage Out - 62v Current Out - 19.7A Wattage Out - 1221w Actual Resistance - 3.15 Ohms Efficiency - 84.4% Audiopipe AP30001D- Voltage - 11.8v Current Pull - 170A Wattage Pull - 2006w Voltage Out - 92v Current Out - 18.5A Wattage Out - 1702w Actual Resistance - 4.97 Ohms Efficiency - 84.8% Notice how the Audiopipe is more efficient than the powerbass with less voltage, does more power at a higher ohm load and is cheaper.

OK, here is perfect directions- Once you are in Kentucky, u can look at the map below to see where to go from there off 264. If coming from New Albany, just get off Cane run South exit and stay on it until it turns in to Greenbelt then follow the map below. If coming in to Kentucky from the other bridge, u gonna need to hit 64W or 264W, whichever is first until u hit Exit Cane Run South. Here is zoomed out map- Here is a close up of the place- You will notice that once you turn on to Intermodal, You have reached the ASUS building, the Main AsUS Tech Support and Repair center in America. This is the building on the left corner. You will be making your second left as shown in the pic which is the back of the warehouse. Once you see cars rather than semi trucks, that's us. I drive the graphic, detailed blue Scion tC. I will let everyone know the meetup will start at 12:30 that's commin. I originally said 1pm but i'll move it back 30 minutes so the people who normally show up late will get there by 1pm at the latest, lol.

if u want sustained voltage or as close to it as possible, get a Fluxcap by Harrison Labs. They are intended to pull a little current out of your electrical system to maintain a preset voltage output. It can do this as long as you don't continuously go over it's rated output. They make them in 50 or 100A outputs.

i thought 8awg typically only handled around 67A

it's not just me, it's the boards. Asus and DFI and sometimes gigabyte use very good cooling methods on the northbridge and surrounding caps around the socket to allow for such insane levels of OCing.

this is going off topic, lol, but that's what i like about ASUS, DDR3-2000+ minimum and stable. I OCed a socket 775 before(my board actually) to over 1900MHz FSB one time and was stable for bout 2hrs at a time. I don't really know what the problem was at the time because the temps were too hot for 24\7 use. The board was only rated for 1333MHz FSB and OC stable to 1600MHz FSB, lol. I'm currently runnin it at 1772MHz FSB for almost a year without problems. Core voltage kinda high 1.32v but hey.. it's stable and runnin fine. When i tried to run it at 1.313v, the system would lock up one every 3 weeks in a perfect cycle.

what would u buy? A 65" LED TV or a 42" LED TV for $300 less?