shizzzon

the 187s because the 8 hifonics can only be wired to 2 ohms per amp. First thing u gotta do is find out how much volume u are gonna have. That will narrow your results a LOT quicker. Once u find that out, the cheapest\loud ratio would be to go with 15s or 18s. Me for example have 12-14 cubes NET, so i'll be goin with 4 15s. If u could get about 20 cubes NET, i'd seriously think about gettin 4 18s.

Yes, i almost forgot about this... But before you get too carried away, you better not use my oh so popular build log to attract attention to your setup, hehe. No, but i have high expectations for his upcoming setup. 2 10" FI SSDs off of a single IA 20.1 in a trunk car. He wanted to be able to just break a 140. I'm gonna see if this baby can break a 143. Crossin my fingers...

i hope u know i was referrin to what little i have now... I'm walkin around bassboxin waiting for my new setup to manifest itself to be.

Well BTLS weigh a ton compared to SSDs. I'm tryin to keep my total sub weight no more than 100lbs. nah, if i truly was discouraged about the conclusion of the problem with the amp, i wouldnt still be a customer, Just like other companies here, great customer service. I know i can get service done to an SSD if i ever needed to. Besides, might as well try a new company while i'm switching over.

I got u beat,

I've never heard the SDC2.5 either, just the HDC3s and the original HD3s. From talkin to AQ, the SDC2.5 is built pretty much like the HDC3s, just a little younger, if u know what i mean. They still focus on how stout of a sub it is but it would be dumb to incorporate the exact same specs in the HDC3 as for the SDC2.5 due to unnecessary weight reasons. The thing that still shocks me is the 2.5s vs the HDC3s in terms of excursion is the 2.5s only lost 0.7" maximum mechanical movement. That means they can STILL move an ungodly amount of air. I would actually run them for my new project but since they only use a 2.5" coil, they wouldnt be a smart choice in comps for what power i'm gonna be runnin.

What kind of numbers you guys expect me to pull with this setup? One thing that is gonna hinder my SPL is that i will be porting it directly in between the 2 front seats. I do not want that IcE CoLD air blowing the hell out of me while i'm driving, hehe. I've had a setup like that before and didn't like it. I did a 147.7 with 2 12s 4ft away from sensor with 2,300w of actual output @42hz. New setup- 4 15" FI SSD (3x more cone area) 2 AQ3500ds (almost twice as much power) 12-14cuft box (larger box in comparison to my last one.. resulting in lower impedance rise this time) A Wall!! (sensor approximately 1ft away rather than 4ft) I'm hopin to not only break a 155 but consistently do this without longterm damage to the SSDs. Another side note... i'm gonna be severily downgrading my battery capacitance. This will be too loud for daily so i'll probably be reverting back to only 120aH, 2 60aH batts. I know it sounds impossible to support 7kw... i'm gonna hopefully do some testing on this theory but i think the batts should be able to burp these amps enough to give a decent score. I'm tryin to kill some weight in the car. This would save 45lbs over goin with 2 87aH batts that i was originally thinkin of.. I might still have to but i'll see in the near future. Also lookin into doin some graphics on the wall and i'm NOT sayin what until it's done and pics taken... However, if you have any ideas, post up some links here so i can find some graphics i might not have seen. I am looking for stenciled graphics large enough to cover no larger than 30" high x 48" wide.

i'm still saying, if u want loud for cheap, i'd invest in an SDC2.5 over an HDC3 with what power you have UNLESS you plan on gettin in upwards of 2kw. The HDC3s are monsters and can take up to about 2kw on the copper coils and 3.5kw on the aluminum (which is almost $100 more per sub) It's easy for someone who doesn't have the common knowledge to damage an SDC2.5 off of an AQ1200d rather quickly... so thanks to AQ, they added a clipping indicator to the amp. If this light comes on solid red during a continuous bass line, TURN IT DOWN. It will be fine if it blinks, but it it starts staying on during bass lines rather than blinking or flickering, you are about to damage something possibly

Hey FF5, give me as many dimensions as possible and a pic of your trunk, i'll try and get a fit for ya. What size and model u runnin?

if you are looking for decent sounding music, if you went with an HDC3 anything, stick to keeping it powered with that amp and no higher. Once it surpasses Xmax, it's all about SPL from there. When inside of it's xmax rating, it sounds nice. The SDC2.5s have a 2.3" xmech rating so powering one of those off of an aq1200d would be a perfect combo. It would be able to get an SDC2.5 to reach it's limits a lot easier than trying to get an HDC3 loud.

So, you had air leaks? What i do to prevent that, for future reference- While you are gluing pieces together, use Liquid Nails spread with your finger and go along all corners in the box. Let it sit for about 30 minutes then do the exact same thing with Silicone II. Make sure the silicone covers the Liquid Nails completely. On the outside of the box, I just use Silicone II. Where the subs mount at, go to partsexpress.com and order speaker foam tape. It's a sealer to prevent air from coming out around the sub(s).

yep, i had an amp go into protect before it even played anything one time when i started the car. although it was inches away from the back windshield and in direct sunlight the entire day... i went back there and OUCH... i knew then why it was in protect, lol. So.. ambient temp plays great role.

Why don't u share? I'm sure several of us would like a piece of your avatar

Well, how much power you plan on running? Not really a question for me but i personally like to buy the largest alt i can find so it doesnt hinder me if i try to upgrade in the future. Mechman H.O. alternator Ohio Generator Excessive Amperage Powermaster DC Power Mean Green DB Electric One of these companies will help you.

If wired at 1 ohm, i'd say a sundown SAZ-1500d or an AQ2200d If wired at 2 ohm, i'd say a Kicker 1500.1

Well, i would say come by my house and i can do a free box test session for about 3-4hrs if u are willing to drive for 4 hrs since i am in KY. I own a tc. And from my box testing- Sub back, port back was the loudest... but i didn't do it because i didn't have room for batteries with that design. The loudest designs i tested for music (between 30-55hz) were- Sub facing passenger side, port back Sub back, port to passenger side Sub back, port to driver side Sub back, port up Sub up, port back Sub to passenger side, port up Any of those designs yielded great results in that frequency range. Of course all cars are different but mine is a hatch and those were the ones i founded my car liked.

Sorry for the no pics, i got somethin a little better commin soon. THE NEW BUILD LOG FOR THE SUMMER OF 2009 4 FI 15" SSDs ported with swappable ports for Daily\Competition 2 AQ3500Ds 2 XS D2400s In a wall in a 2007 Scion tC. Coming soon...

These are the ONLY 2 options i am focusing on... due to weight

I'm stuck and need some help. Both of these setups will be used for music but i know both will be excessive for music. I'm looking for info regarding the best choice for competition usage. Here are the 2 options i have- 4 15" SSDs in 12.0 cuft NET with Flatwound ONLY. or 2 18" BTLs with P Chamfer, HiXmcoil, Inner Heat Sink in 12.0 cuft NET. Both setups are gonna be ran off of 2 3500Ds= 7,000w. I know the SSDs may want the BP power with that much for daily but i wont be running it at that level for music, just for burps or short 30sec music runs in comp only. I believe the options i chose for the BTLs are correct for the music\comp combo. The main thing i'm confused about is- is 12cuft for the 4 15s good enough to reign over the 2 BTLs in 12cuft? I know the SSDs have far more cone area but since i've never ran FI before, i dont know if 3cuft per 15" SSD is on the terrible side or if it's doable to boast over the BTL in this scenario.

I am talkin to a guy locally who may do it in terms of only FG-ing the part of the door where i would need extra speakers at instead of the entire door.... He's askin me if a door can typically handle up to 2 or 4 speakers because he's never done somethin like that before. Is there anything special that needs to be done to help support the weight or is it ok? or do i need to stick with a certain speaker weight, etc?

oh, hehe, i guess i look retarded askin $300... So, it sounds not an easy job to do, especially one to try on the first time FG-ing. Well, that probably about sums up my curiosity for now. Thanks guys, i will continue to research

i think that is the saddest loud vehicle video i've seen and that can be taken multiple ways, hehe

Without a doubt, Sundown. I don't recall anyone ever gettin that MA Audio amp to ever output that much power. Now, if you were comparin those 2 sundown amps to a Hifonics MaXXimus, or better yet, a Kicker Warhorse... totally different story!

ok thanks, what type of price range am i to expect because i have no basis, no guideline on what they normally cost. It would involve replacing the entire door panel with the ability to hold 3-4 6.5" woofers per door. How much would one expect to spend per door... then, how much woudl one expect to spend to do it themself if they had the knowledge?

Im tryin to see if anyone can custom fiberglass me some door panels, entire door panels for both of my doors of my car. I know some companies locally that do it but they charge extremely, i mean EXTREMELY large amounts of money for it. To give you an example, they charge $1,500 to do a 14cuft wall in my car.... i dont know why they told me that a while back but that's not what i wanted from them anyway because i know how expensive they are. I'm lookin to spend no more than $300 per door. Is that too low? I can't find anything for a Scion tC.