ImBob

This guy has had some fun I'm trying to not go overboard with stereo as I have cars...but every time you have a taste of something you just want more...and a little more...and a whole lot more

Yeah sounds like you got plenty of things to do to help you get into the 11's. Been awhile since my drag racing days, but isn't that already high 11 sec mph with traction? I remember when my 89 GT was NA it did 108 with 12.60's with so-so traction on slicks. I want to dyno tune my 88LX and get something other than the cheapie tires on Ponies. Read lots of good things about Nitto NT05's, since I want a more streetable tire than a typical DR. Are you wanting to stay with "street" tires? I don't remember what shifter my buddy had on his 94 Formula years ago, but damn that T-56 was the smoothest shifting thing ever. Only a LT1 car, but I loved how it felt and drove. Then we put a nitrous kit on it and left the jets out! Fun times!

That's awesome Dave I think it's definitely got 11 sec potential. 10 year old tires...how hard and dry rotted are they? lol I've wanted a TA for a long time, but my driveway is overfull at the moment.

Well this 15 in a ported box did not disappoint. My buddy was a bit worried about the wives tails of 15's not being "tight" or just sounding bad, plus ported boxes only being for bass music. But he loves how it sounds. More upper end extension could be had, but I guess it depends on what you want. If your mids can play fairly low and have good midbass response in your vehicle, then a setup like my buddy has is awesome in my non-expert opinion I would guess your Focals on that JBL will do well there.

My buddy just got a FI BL 15 that we put in a 4ft^3 box after displacement, tuned it to ~30hz. I think the box is just under 6ft gross. Pushing it with a MB Quart Onx 1600 watt amp. In his explorer, it gets louder than anything we have ever messed with (Type R 12's were the "best" before this), and sounds good to both of us. It hits the lows very well, probably a bit peaky there. If the box was a bit smaller I think it wouldn't be as peaky down low, but he likes it this way. A bit of eq'ing did help. I only had those two pennies Dave, hope they help

The future looks...intimidating

Hey I have a turbo kit sitting around in boxes too...been there for about 5 years lol. One of my buddies is slowly building a turbo stang now with my old 4bolt 347, but he has 3 kids and a new Camaro, 2 truck payments, house, new shop, blah blah blah...yeah he'll never finish his project either lol. Not exactly sure what Dean is up to now. How did the Firechicken run? I remember it, but not all the details. I hear ya about having kids, and I know they are much more important than playtime. I'll check out your truck build. Hopefully I'll have something going on for my Exploder and LX soon. My roommate just put a 15" FI BL in his 2000 Exploder, it's his first "serious" sub and he's been blown away by it.

Thanks for the explanations guys. I'm gonna google some of this to read a little further. M5, I have seen the EBP term when using Winisd, but never knew what it meant. Does it look at QTS (total Q?)?

Noob thinking out loud here. So in a ported enclosure, is the sub having to work "less" near port frequency? The sub moves less, but what does that mean from a power handling standpoint (if anything)? Is it easier for a sub to take power near the tuning frequency? I believe I've read about "thermal" power handling. Does that mean there is another unit of measure for power handling? I could be way off, but from what I recall, it seems thermal is constant with no regard for enclosure, but another aspect of power handling does take enclosure into consideration. Hope I'm coming close to conveying what I'm trying to say here lol. Also, I hear people talking about "efficient" enclosures, but wonder what all that refers too. I'm sure this is a nice, long discussion all in itself, but what are some basics? I've read double baffle, bracing, things like this keep vibration down which I guess translates into less energy wasted and more spl. I also read a bit about kerfing, letting the air flow smoothly makes sense. And I guess proper port area kinda follows the concept of getting the air to flow well. Are there more things I should look in to, or just KISS? Sorry if this was a bit broad, but while my insomniac mind keeps me awake, I ask questions and try to learn shit lol. Thanks!

Thanks Stefan! I guess it'll be safer to build with a bit more pot area just to be sure. The reduction in box size is minimal anyway.

Yessir, that is I. I stopped posting there pretty much over the last year after they were bought out by that Canadian company, went to shit, and everyone started posting elsewhere. Who are you there? Holy shiznit, it is you lol. I'm "Bobo" there and pretty much every forum, think that name was already taken here though. I don't post there or any Mustang forums much though. I still have a Stang and just did a Trick Flow h/c/i on it, can't get it totally out of my system and really don't want too...just had to learn moderation. Probably gonna be blowing more money on systems instead I guess. I remember you from way back when, maybe late 90's. I'm remember you being funny as fuck lol and always posting interesting stuff. I don't know if you'd remember me, I was more of a lurker I guess. I think you were on TurboMustangs.com some? I was there too. Good to hear from ya!

Got a couple questions Stefan (probably noobie). Target vent mach has suggestions for low, med, high. Is it safe to assume low-med is a safe range to stay? And also, with it reading like this : Low: 10 ~0.13 Med: 25 ~0.07 High: 45 ~0.13, what does ~0.13, ~0.07, and again ~013 stand for respectively? I thought it'd read something like Low: 10-24 Med: 25-44 High: 45-? Am I just not understanding the unit of measure here? I've put in #'s for a possible box and it shows 31 m/s vent mach. Sound ok? Anything more to consider?

Kinda odd question here, but do you own a Mustang and post on Corral.net?

I was wondering that too, but would guess the X series Jacob has talked about maybe?

My buddy had some shipping info emailed to him very early, but he ended up getting the sub after like 3 weeks. Worth the wait though, subs amazing.

Oh yeah guess I should mention I'm in the sub market. Had my eye on a single 18" Z or maybe dual SA 15's. Staying around 2000 watts with a fair amount of room for a low tuned ported box. My buddy has 3 older SA8's on 1700 watts in a small ported box that just amazes everyone who hears it. I know the SA8 has changed, just had me wondering about other possible lineup changes. But I am also thinking about the new comps Jacob is about to put out to replace my so-so 6x8 coax's. I'm always working on stuff We do have a complete X line in the pipe for 2013 -- 8/10/12/15/18 models -- our most complete line as far as sizes go! The 12" will likely be completed first -- but stay tuned to the forums for that info. That sounds very interesting. Always good to dedication to offering more goodies to the public Thanks for the replies guys!

Maybe not the right thread to ask, but are there any lineup changes in the works for Sundown? I'm looking at a few options now, but I may not buy right away. Just wondering if I should look out for any more new goodies any time soon.

I'm a sucker for a good deal. I have a feeling I'm going to be persuaded to make my next sub purchase on or around Black Friday

Ok well I guess box design is going to be something I look into closely. All I have now is Winisd Alpha to check boxes...if that's worth anything. Displacement is obviously a key too, but I can probably only afford to go with a single sub for now, so most likely an 18.

Thanks for the info. I knew it'd be more hassle and money to go to more extremes, just want all the info in front of me to help make a decision. I am about to go over 1,000 for the first time ever in a stereo, so I'm not exactly sure what to expect. And if I get bitten by the bug hard, I may want more and more and more lol. I guess a smart thing would be to see what I can do with a system without major upgrades off around 2,000 watts and then decide if I really want to take te next step.

So let's say I want a Zcon and have 2500-3000 watts for it, and it is going in a car with a 130 alternator. What all electrically is likely needing to be upgraded (and maybe the question is not that simple?)? I think you'll need at least 0 gauge power wire, solid grounding, and probably the big 3...sound good so far? But then what is the next step people take? Bigger battery? An extra battery? Bigger alternator? Alternator and battery? So 2500 watts or so probably isn't high power to some lol, but a noob wants to know what all you get into when you start trying to feed beasts like Zcons significant power.

My buddy just got a 15" BL. My Tidal 12" is a wee bit intimidated. First ever ported box build (waiting on carpet). 6ft^3 before displacement, 4ft^3 after. Tuned to about 29 hz, port is 3" x 18.75". Powered by Onx1600.1. Set gains with sub hooked up on some loud bass songs to about 1200 watts with DMM for now.

Pioneer AVH-P1400DVD 4 Fosgate R1682 6x8's Cadence TXA 3004 on 6x8's JBL GT5-15 Cadence TXA 3002 on sub JBL EQ The sub is the first thing I'm about to change. Looking at several single 15 or 18" options and a new sub amp. Front door speakers may be swapped out soon too.

I've heard of people using birch instead of mdf, just don't know the benefits. I'll try and search that (but the search on this site seems jacked up).

Ok cool. Looks like Lowes has that so I'll get some when I get my mdf and stuff.