helotaxi

Nope, you have to worry about roadkill and basic debris.

I've found the mobile base that I want, it's just a matter of getting it and putting it together and then actually getting the saw on top of it. My saw's heavy and the wife isn't much good for lifting heavy things.

You'll never get to Xmax in the region of freqs that you're looking at without chitloads of power and you'll probably either toast the coil and/or rip the cone to shreds first. You're talking right around tuning where the box is exerting maximum control over the cone minimizing cone movement and maximizing the output from the port.

Put my name on one of the 8's! ....maybe 2....

Sound deadening is done. HU installed. Wiring is run except for figuring out how I'm going to hook up to the front battery. Been trying to work on the a-pillar pods, but I can't get to my table saw right now. Garage is full of my wife's car and my bikes, so I need a mobile base for the saw so I can pull it out when needed and move it out of the way so the wife can park the car.

I'm not sure. But, Awg is Awg and it is a cross-sectional area measurement of the wire, so if they are bigger, than it isn't the same gauge... Maybe do they mean the individual conductors are bigger, with less of them? That would make more sense... AWG is AWG only when talking about the same material. Steel wire and copper wire of the same AWG is of different size. Comparing the KLMX that I have with some AudioPipe 1/0 that I have, the KLMX is about right at the same size. Haven't had any problems fitting the KLMX into normal 1/0 terminals. Conducting wire is gauged by resistance per unit length last I checked with the properties of copper as the standard.

It's a pretty simple matter to cover one of the cutouts on the box and run a single sub... How much depth do you have in the box?

Yep. Sounds like you messed up the inputs.

I've got some of those and I wouldn't trust them under the car.

Reground the HU. Another possibility is that the HU output was damaged when (if) the signal cable was pinched.

If your amp has a low pass filter on it, why are you using an outboard crossover?

Car companies don't use the same wiring colors that are standard in the aftermarket. Each automaker has their own way of color-coding things. Do a search online for your car and radio wiring and you should be able to find what you're looking for without having to resort to some type of ghetto rig.

One more step of basic troubleshooting, does the noise go away when you disconnect the RCAs from the amp? Do you have a Pioneer HU?

Regardless of how dumb the company is, the build house isn't owned by them and is probably not in the business of wasting time and resources. The smaller the batch of adhesive mixed up, the larger as a percentage is lost as a result of it sticking to the mixing vessel and tools. What is possible as well is that the adhesive is the cheapest thing that they could find and the heat from the coil melted it and broke it down to the point that it wouldn't reharden. Any way you look at it, that glue on the spider is a problem with production specification and / or quality control.

There's some ignorant advice... Power or signal wire run under the door sill on the passenger's side? Wouldn't surprise me if the chick stepped on the sill plate just wrong and it crimped the signal wire.

The wire that so many people rave about isn't any more conductive or really better in any way that actually benefits the system. That people are willing to spend significantly more money on wire that is merely more flexible just baffles me.

Mixed per speaker? OOOOOOKAY....

Do you only have the noise when the door is open. If so it's possible that the circuit that's turning on the dome light when the door opens is sharing a ground path with your HU. Not going to be a problem with the amp.

There's usually no reason to drill to run cable through the firewall. I had 2 runs in my last car and 1 in the current one. Never drilled the firewall. There is a large grommet where the main wiring harness comes into the cabin from the engine bay. It is pretty much always much larger than the wiring harness leaving you plenty of room to make a small slit in the spare space and fish the cable through. The grommet is usually on the driver's side and comes into the cabin above the carpet line. Take the driver's seat out and pull back the carpet on that side. Most every car I've worked on has a channel down both sides of the car right near the sill plates that can easily accommodate at least one run of 1/0. Nothing wrong with running it under the car but I would definitely enclose the cable in something to protect it from road debris and make sure that you secure it well either with rivets or screws and brackets. Doing it right is a pain the butt.

I find that VERY difficult to swallow. They actually claimed that the epoxy was so far off that it still hasn't fully cured and that was missed in the QC? What about the dust cap quite obviously not being glued down completely? What about the fact that there was too much glue in the joint to begin with? My guess is that all of the above was missed because there simply is no quality control. Let's face it, if the build house can't get the simple process of mixing up a batch of epoxy (which is really pretty forgiving and when done in industrial batches almost idiot proof) correct why would you expect anything of quality to come out of there. How many other drivers were affected by that "bad batch" of epoxy? Have they fixed the process?

The "DD answer" is a generalization as well. The sub, power, box volume and tuning all dictate the required port area.

You always use a PR with an otherwise sealed box.

Maybe it is a huge gap. It's modeled after the gap between some people's ears...

People who don't run 3kw? Not even the majority of consumers use 1kw+ in their system. People on car audio forums are far from a representative sample of aftermarket car audio consumers.