jbob

Where'd you guys pick yours up? I'm planning on getting one soon.

Let us know how it works out I'm telling myself I'll actually take pictures of my whole install progress this time. I've said it before, but always end up taking about 2 or 3 pictures and forgetting about it and getting too much into the actual "work". I will let everybody know how they work for me, but with the reputation you've built for your stuff I'm sure they'll be great.

Bah!, I just jumped on the sax100.2 deal and picked up two to do my front stage. Oh well, 2 amps looks more impressive than one.

Got mine today. Can't wait to find some time to install these!

The 100.2 is about 25% underrated -- they can pretty easily produce 125 x 2 @ 4 ohms at regular car voltage. Can it handle 16+ volts and .5ohms? Nope. What about 1ohm stereo / 2ohm bridge?

Was going to be buying a 100.4 soon for my upcoming system, but 2 of these will do nicely. Got any deals on the 1500d's coming up?

post. alot.

Ya I went into a local shop that sells JL, Kicker, Pioneer, Eclipse, Alpine, and some others. I thought they used to sell RF. I went in to see if they were an RF dealer because i wanted to see what they'd charge for a 3sixty. They were never RF. Then I said what else is available for processing/OEM integration. I then stated I did not want a Cleansweep because I wanted the processing capabilites. This whole area has a boner for JL so you can never say anything remotely bad about them. So then hes asking me why I don't want one because it's the best and has 8 volt preouts and the 8v was his only real argument for it over a 3sixty or similar which is "only 5v". He then said why do you need an EQ, SQ competitors don't even use EQ's anymore. Then I kinda mumbled ok alright whatever and left. I never really liked that shop much anyway.

What's great is it's not just missing faceplates, but cut rca's and harneses too, lol.

That says these are all stolen http://cgi.ebay.com/pioneer-alpine-LOT-7-i...1QQcmdZViewItem good old ebay...

I've installed two eD sub and amp combos for people. One was a nine.1 with 3 of there 9kvs's and the other was a nine.2x (i think, may have been a nine.2) with an 11kv2. The products themselves had ok build quality, no huge concerns i noticed, but i didn't pay a GREAT deal of attention to that. Of this, the nine.2x failed in a few hours. eD was very helpful for the guy and got the replacement out fast (we're in southern MN so it's not far from their HQ in iowa). eD also called the evening both orders were receiver to see if they had any questions. Both of these were later last summer. Would I buy their stuff myself? No. Their products are average, better than a best buy system, but nowhere near most of the products on here. Also from reading EVERYWHERE (except of course ICIX) I've come to the conclusion that Ben Milne is in fact a douche. So there's my eD review.

Make my fat ass not so fat. Well anyway I used to workout at a gym but quit because I just didn't have the time. Now I need to go back and I'm still busy, but will make time (and a couple of 24 hour ones opened in my town now). I'm going to try to focus more on cardio, but I like lifting weights so we'll see how well I balance the two.

no use the ipod connection capabilites to use a deck to control a pc instead of an ipod, like some type of reverse adapter

no registration: http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:uDBNg...lient=firefox-a google cache ftw! unfortunately not a lot of info

new processor? I'm intrigued, anyone have any info on that thing?

Anyone ever heard of some type of reverse ipod adapter. I've been thinking about how it would be great for carpc's in cars with ipod interfaces. It would hook up to the ipod interface on one end and go to the pc on the other end for controlling a media app. It's probably something I should post on mp3car.com. I know car2pc.com makes interfaces to control, but they only have a limited list of vehicles they work with. I figured this would end up being a little more universal. I dunno, I get bored at work quite a bit so I end up thinking of all kinds of crap like this.

People here know their stuff, it's wise to take their avice. The kicker would be plenty power, and likely your best bet being you need a 2 or .5 ohm load. Your hifonics you have now probably barely does 1000 watts on a great day. Another option would be a strapped pair of sundown 1000's.

Duh, didn't even think of the archive, thanks alot!

I have a 15" Brahma MKIV I bought about a year ago and don't have a spec sheet anymore. Does anyone have the specs for this driver? It's a dual 2 ohm. Thanks.

Let's say the crossover is a 3khz crossover. If you send a 6khz signal the tweeter is going to get nearly 100 watts and the woofer almost nothing, at 3khz then each speaker should get around 50 watts, if you send a 1khz signal the woofer's going to get almost all of the power.

Well, he said they're 8's so JL only says 300 watts to um, but warranty isn't void til 500.

But, that will get split 3 ways so each amp will have 1/3 the total voltage (right?) It's hovering around 0 degrees in MN right now, but once it warms up maybe I'll try to rig something up with stuff I have lying around and see how it works.

Well, I was going to see if it was a viable option for my factory integration install. I have an 05 magnum with factory navigation that I want to keep. It has one stereo set of speaker level outputs coming off the headunit and I was going to see if it was a good choice to take that and split it into 3 plugs for each channel (im planning on an active two with with no rear fill and of course a substage). I wanted to see if this would be viable rather than using a LOC and splitting(or using passthrough if the amps would have it). So I know I don' need 15V signal lines, but I figure bypassing a LOC is always good if possible since some cut bass bad and have various other problems.

So theoretically if the headunit's amplifier was "perfect" sounding it would work the same as the preouts, just with higher voltage, but what you guys are saying is it doesn't work because the amp sections in headunits are junk. I guess what I'm saying at this point is that I know it will work like crap, but now I'm asking if I have my theory correct.