Aaron Clinton

I don't know. Coming from Europe... I'd pick the East Coast as it actual has a semblance of culture or history. Boston in particular is a hoot. If you are outdoor-zy further North Or a real city, like Chicago If CO, I recommend Boulder If it has to be CA, make it the Bay Area...or similar in Oregon. There is only one city in Texas and its Austin. Texans may say its not Texas though. Florida pretty much sucks North Carolina can be a win as well. The other thing you left off about the South is by far it has the laziest, most redneck, and despicable humans in the country. Avoid it like the plague. Worth a visit, but not a place to study. I'd also skip New York. If that is your thing, go to Tokyo instead. WAY better. Loads of very good schools in MD.

Aaron, if you want to go next year I'll make a pact and split a room with ya. I've been wishin' and hopin' and dreaming to go to CES for years. Mark and I plan to probably both go next year, maybe we can get a bunch of us together and get a schnazzy suite (ala hangover sans tiger). Who's the one getting stuck on the roof? Not it.

Aaron, if you want to go next year I'll make a pact and split a room with ya. I've been wishin' and hopin' and dreaming to go to CES for years. Mark and I plan to probably both go next year, maybe we can get a bunch of us together and get a schnazzy suite (ala hangover sans tiger). I would be totally down, how much do ces passes cost? Team SSA get together?! Don't know the cost off hand and it could change for next year.

Just looking for a little input from people who have used or know about these certain model tires. Vehicle is the little Mazda P5. 2700lbs soaking wet, will gain a few when I finally get around to the audio. Size is 195/50/16. Currently, I am doing a lot of high way miles, much of it stop and go. No plans to track the car in the near future. Bad weather is prevalent in this area of course, but not super bad. Biggest needs are all around traction, braking, durability and light weight for the MPG'z. Price is a factor, as I have something coming that will hit me quite hard $$$ wise so I cannot get the Michelins I would like to get. Currently, only one tire is in short term need of replacement, but the other drive tire could get a switch at the same time. The rear pair are fine, and yes, I did rotate the tires when I bought the car last year. This is a new tire segment for me as I have been buying tires for heavy German sleds or the explorer for a long time, so mostly Yoko's/Michelins/BFG's with the occasional Flaken. The OEM tire has horrible reviews, Dunlop SP Sport 5000M. Here are a few I am peaking at right now, but I am open to suggestions as I have not used any of these in the past: Click the pictures for tire specs Dunlop Direzza DZ101: General Exclaim UHP: Continental ExtremeContact DWS:

We could be at least a month out. But it will be worth it for the Icon. The BL is an excellent driver, and if you are considering a very high output install the BL might be the better choice for you.

Forget the rear speakers if they are stock. Run more power the to front stage, that is my vote.

On?

Cant wait to pair this amp with my CS60CF and bring some midbass back to the car! Also, do you guys recommend me to bridge my speakers and go 180x2 or should I just keep it separate channels 85x4? I know is 100watts over the rated specs, but might be good for some mid bass action? i have the Bravox carbon fiber 6.5s on this amp bridged. sounds awesome. gain is about 1/5 the way up. u will be happy That is great to hear. Pretty sweet value set up for sure. Top end Bravox powered by classic A/B ZED.

The response on them was strong enough to push forward on the Zcon's. No, the Zcon's are not the same driver, but they are a very high output driver that has more thermal handling then our other offerings.

Cant wait to pair this amp with my CS60CF and bring some midbass back to the car! Also, do you guys recommend me to bridge my speakers and go 180x2 or should I just keep it separate channels 85x4? I know is 100watts over the rated specs, but might be good for some mid bass action? If you set the gains correctly, and don't need the 3rd and 4th channels for other speakers.

Welcome back, I remember you.

The low end is going to be a little closer to the Xcon. The freaking wipers were doing the worm!

I dont want to spend much more than 300 for an amp. And Im a firm believer in running AT LEAST rms to the sub. That way I dont put any stress on any equipment. And I dont have to buy the cooling upgrade I just thought it would help the sub run better. And my goal is SQ. I know the Q can get loud but I have also heard many talk of its superb SQ. Those two underlined above are not really connected. You can easily run less power and put less strain, both electrically and mechanically on your equipment (pending you are not clipping the signal). There is no law that says you must run RMS to the sub, headroom can be a good thing, but not required. The cooling option was essentially meant for those pushing the thermal limits of the sub woofer, it performs perfectly well without it if it is not really needed. Ok well any suggestions for an amp in the 1krms range? And thanks then i might save myself 30 buck without buying that cooling option (: i thought it would be crazy not to but now im starting to see that if im just going to run around 1k rms then i dont need it. If you are not going to push the upper limits of the driver on a steady and extended basis, you should be ok with out. As for suggestions, I am biased, so I will let a few others offer up ideas.

I dont want to spend much more than 300 for an amp. And Im a firm believer in running AT LEAST rms to the sub. That way I dont put any stress on any equipment. And I dont have to buy the cooling upgrade I just thought it would help the sub run better. And my goal is SQ. I know the Q can get loud but I have also heard many talk of its superb SQ. Those two underlined above are not really connected. You can easily run less power and put less strain, both electrically and mechanically on your equipment (pending you are not clipping the signal). There is no law that says you must run RMS to the sub, headroom can be a good thing, but not required. The cooling option was essentially meant for those pushing the thermal limits of the sub woofer, it performs perfectly well without it if it is not really needed.

Chances are, you will hear little to no difference in clarity between 1 ohm and 2 ohms. What is your budget and goals? You could easily run a 500 watt amplifier and be very happy, or run a 1200+ watt amp. Just depends if you really feel you need the extra wattage, which I am guessing you do based on the cooling upgrade.

I need to get mine renewed also.

Aaron, if you want to go next year I'll make a pact and split a room with ya. I've been wishin' and hopin' and dreaming to go to CES for years. Mark and I plan to probably both go next year, maybe we can get a bunch of us together and get a schnazzy suite (ala hangover sans tiger). If only I could fly down there for CES Wonder how much it would cost. Not a horrible amount but visas and stuff are more of a problem. Passport?

Anyone following the Dakar Rally?

Anyone else sniff Morel:

Aaron, if you want to go next year I'll make a pact and split a room with ya. I've been wishin' and hopin' and dreaming to go to CES for years. I'm so down... Humm, got the wheels turning. Hehe.

Aaron, if you want to go next year I'll make a pact and split a room with ya. I've been wishin' and hopin' and dreaming to go to CES for years. Mark and I plan to probably both go next year, maybe we can get a bunch of us together and get a schnazzy suite (ala hangover sans tiger). If only I could fly down there for CES Wonder how much it would cost.