Aaron Clinton

My work shop rules all. A mini-table saw and a kids picnic table on my back patio.

Hahaha, OH NO!

6 of our top 20 posting members are no longer considered active. Strange. I don't want SSA to become a top heavy posting forum where only a small handful of people make the majority of posts.

When did 17k happen?

If they are interested, and have someone that will support it, we can host it here.

Not sure how I missed this topic and all the happenings in it. It is a shame because, there were a few moments in it that had potential to shoot off into a great discussion many could learn from. Such as getting more people to go IB in car audio, or focusing on the application and not the power listed in the amplifier manual.

I would suggest taking it easy on the driver until you resolve the problem because we are not sure what is happening just yet.

Your right, I should have checked PE first. May I ask, why is the TB W8 neo not in the running? Is it the lower rms? But after looking into the Dayton, it specs out very nicely. So if time is a factor I would consider it 2nd to the Sound Splinter in my preferred drivers.

I agree with Sean ^^, those three (yes I am biased towards the Icon, but know and love all of them) are very safe bets. If you were to try something all new in the same general category, there is the Incriminator Flatlyne, or Mach5 IXL 12.2.2. Both have the same kind of great performance and customer service as the prior three mentioned sub woofers.

Fi builds a great product, I have seen it in person plenty of times. eD on the other hand, well their products seem to be constantly suspect. Even if the eD driver was equal or better (which I would have serious doubts), it is still the fact of bad morals/karma to buy from and support a company that acts that way and has a history (seeing that things keep happening it is not history really). I am not bashing here, but I think the choice is pretty clear. The Q is a very good driver that does very well in both sealed and ported.

We won't be calling it an Icon because of a different motor, coil, spiders, xmax, power handling yadda yadda etc. etc. We could for marketing but for looking down the road a 10" and 12" should follow in the same line as the 8. But to the topic at hand, if the SSA driver did not exist, I would personally lean towards the Sound Splinter. I love my RL-i, it is the bench mark for non-main stream high end 8" subs right now. Even with the quality and history of the JL, there is something about the heft and build about the RL-i 8 that I prefer. I can't really speak on the Orphan Annie's, but I have a good idea as to what they are under neath, and if the RL-i 8 and SSA 8 are not ready when you need to move on this project, for the money and performance I think they would be the way to go. Plus, if you decide that they are not getting it done the way you would like, the limited numbers would lend them to keep a good value and be able to re-sell fairly easy. But since I thought you mentioned the Dayton 10's, why not the RL-i 10?

Both options will have great sound and output in a correctly build box with clean power. If box height is an issue and budget is not, go with the 10's. If the visa versa is true, then go with the 12's. If you have between 500 and 1000 watts per driver you will be fine.

Based on your prior posts, I would vote for the 15" model with flat wound coil and P Chamfer. Also, for what you are after I would tune about 35hz. If you feel you are going to be beating on the sub woofer for long periods of time spend the extra on the cooling option, if not just get the other two options.

If you can fit the higher end of your range that would be great. If you plan to lean on the sub heavy daily, for longer periods of time with the gains on your amp up, cooling would be worth the few extra dollars. If you plan to send it 1500+ watts, for handling reasons, it would be worth the flatwound coil option. The BL can get very loud in a daily install (and competitions too). I would suggest getting a little sound deadening to get more out of the output of the driver and less lost in the vibration of body panels of the car. A few dollars spent on Second Skin Damplifier or Cascade V-Max or RAMMAT BXT will make a world of difference. As from my experience with friends/competitors who have used the BL, the bigger the box you can go the better, and brace the walls of the box well, maybe even a double baffle, in addition give it some serious port area and tune it in the mid to low 30's. To also help in with your goals, I would suggest getting a pound or two of polyfill to put in the box to simulate larger interior air volume. Forgot to mention that Fi suggests the P Chamfer option also.

This is the part that will bother a good number of people here at SSA, as we really strive to respect others around us and their right to not be forced to hear our music.

One problem that sticks out to me, is where are you going to be able to fit the assumed 4 amplifiers if 3 or 4 sub woofers are going in the back, all the while trying to keep them hidden and discrete? Edit: I believe to start production the SSA 8 will be dual4, but there is a possibility for another configuration.

I will probably try to pull down the new FF. But Opera is more my speed I guess.

But that is on base, their rules are a bit different. I sensed a bit of resentment towards the research lab civilians.

Loud is a frame of mind.

That stuff does not work up here.

LMAO I got pulled over giving a co worker a ride home in a housing project. The speed limit is 3MPH. The cop pulled me over for going 7MPH Damn, I'd get hauled off to jail for going 6x the speed limit on a damn bicycle. I had a 1974 volvo station wagon. The first line on the speedo was 10 mile an hour, and it was 1-2mm above the peg. How the hell do you go 3 mph ? If auto, put her in "D", slip a little 'shine in the tank and take your foot off the brakes. It will crawl forward at about 2mph.

Those old RF collectors are dangerous.

I could drive it off a cliff at 9.8m/s/s