95Honda

I didn't run your dimensions through a calculator so I don't know how accurate your calculations are. It makes no difference how much the port is inside or outside of the enclosure, except for the difference in enclosure volume, obviously...

They don't have internal fuses. You need to make roughly 20KW to feed four of those amps at full tilt. That would be about 1500 amps maximum draw on a 12V system. So you need the battery capacity and a way to charge them. This will be expensive....

2nd try on the pics...

Last system I helped with for a dorm room used a set of knock-off Adire HE10s for the top and an Earthquake Magma 15 on the bottom with a plate amp. Everything including a reciever was well under $1K. It was very loud. I have the HE10 and HE12 plans in PDF if you want them....

Arbitrarily picking volumes and port dimensions without modeling is completely pointless... There are no "set" ratios. Every driver requires a different combination of enclosure parameters.

Hmmm, don't know why. I wanted you to see because I set the wall up in place of 3rd row seating, 2 row was still functional. Would be easy in your Suburban....

Walled in a 99' Durango... This was back in 2003/2004...

I ran 6 Tempests in 24ft @ 32Hz. Did 152.8 with 2200 watts... You will probably be louder with more power...

Will work just fine...

Turn you caps lock off. Annoying as hell...

A notch filter would be beneficial if you had a peak somewhere that needed to be tamed. But, you would need to know exactly where this peak was (with test equipment) and measure again to see if the filter you designed actually hit the peak. I have used notch filters for decades with passive crossovers. They are designed into the circuit when there is a an audible peak. Normally the filter has to be very precise (like taking an inductor and removing a few windings until it measures exact) to even work right. Additionally, I have to use acoustic measuring before and after. In other words, a lot of technical crap. Most of the time if you go active and have some sort of processing (eq) you can deal with these problems much easier thna doing it in the passive realm after the last amplification stage...

That 2nd magnet is for shielding, won't change the T/S too much on or off. But like others have said, it provides the seal for the volume that loads the tweeter. I would try a strong epoxy. Even JB weld. Clean things well first.

No matter how you set everything up you can smoke those subs with those amps(s). I would become firmiliar with what it sounds, feels and smells like to burn up your subs... Honestly, any gain setting tutorial will cause more harm than good for many people due to false security you'll have. This isn't an opinion, it is just a fact of the way electronics work...

There are seriously healthy 6.5"-7" drivers out there that will mate well and have plenty of output....

I would never run a 10 or 12 in a car as mid, horrible off axis...

Output.

I just hope everyone takes note that enclosure volume is not in your equation. Thank you for actually posting something usefull and objective about this question that comes up about every day...

The RMS rating of a subwoofer is the rated thermal limit of the voice coil. It has nothing to do with how loud a driver is, how much power it needs or how efficent it is. The most determaining factor in power requirment is enclosure, not RMS rating of the driver. The only reason an RMS rating is given is to simply let you know how much power a voice coil can accept on a continuos basis before thermal failure. Thats it, nothing else...

Just a little food for thought, the RMS is NOT a reccomendation for how much power you need. In fact, it has nothing to do with that whatsoever.

As long as it is acting like a port, it won't sound any different no matter the area until compression sets in. More port area does not equate to peakier response. Messing something else up in the mix is what will cause this. Aditionally, there is no correlation between box volume and vent area. At all.

Total system Q will probably end up lower than you think do to the leakage of the trunk... It is too lossy to predict soley on physical volume...

Makes sense. I wonder who owns XBL2 now?

Are you ever planning on putting out a larger platform XBL2 motor? I am always keeping an eye out... I have a fixed supply of the good stuff from early 03'-04' but am always looking...

ADI designs?

Are these XBL2 or is XBL something different? Just curious more than anything...