95Honda

You can mass load to lower the Fs, but you in turn lower efficiency, so it is a double edged sword... Have you modeled the SSD in your ideal alignment? I have no idea what the SSD T/S parameters are, but I wouldn't discount the Fs until you model and see what it will actually do...

There is no relation between port area and enclosure volume.

Oxidation. Was a big problem with the Monster Cable I was using 20 yrs ago. Newer techniques have helped this. I wouldn't worry about, it is mostly a superficial problem...

You are looking at it the wrong way. Calculate voltage drop vs current then you will see the benefit.

You sound like a spammer. Tread lightly please...

I would caution against low-Q drivers for IB unless you have ample displacment availible. I say this because the lower the Q of the sub, the more it self dampens and the less output it has as you go lower in frequency without augmentation of some kind. In IB, the augmentation comes in the form of EQ, wich takes power. An exponential amount of power as frequency drops. When the driver has a higher Q, it doesn't self dampen as much as you go lower in frequency and requires less EQ on the bottom.

What do you mean by output? Do you mean the sound quality or output level from the LOC?

Yes^^. There is no realtion between enclosure volume and vent area. Power and driver displacement are the dominant factors. You need to model to find out what the vent velocity will be.

Class D's have similar efficiency. This won't be any more "power hungry" than any other 4 kw amp... There really isn't alot of break-through efficiency technology out there to make much of a difference between amp to amp...

Why I could never run a mail order speaker buisness. I would just be telling people to F-off if they pulled some crap like this... People need to realize why you get such a high cost/performance ratio this (Mail order/factory direct) way. You aren't paying for the overhead of a 21 year old "expert" covered in Acne guiding you you through the purchasing process and then going into a back room and grabing you a sub.... And paying for his manager, and his building, etc.... You are only paying for a product and a little logistics... You need to remember this when things like this happen...

There is no such thing as "underrated" power handling. People who run more than "rated" wattage to a subwoofer don't realize that they are in fact not. If they were, they would thermally ruin the subwoofer...

I wouldn't send until it clears in YOUR bank account if you are worried... Anyone who says they are in India, on an oil rig, in South America, etc is usually a scammer in my experience...

It would be wise to model 100% the time first, this way you know how the driver will behave in the enclosure you design. You know what the impedance, excursion, power handling and anechoic response should be. After you determain this, you can correlate what your overall system response will be inside your vehicle if you have an idea of the amount of cabin gain you will have in your vehicle. Contrary to popular belief, little in the way of impedance, excursion and actaul output of the subwoofer system itself (minus cabin gain) changes at all inside or outside of the confinement of the car/truck. This has been measured and published in resources such as the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook. Arbitrarily choosing rations, volumes and tuning is completely useless without modeling. Anyone who does this hasn't got a clue about what is actually going on and is purely lucky if they get favorable results...

If I had the choice I would choose the pair. You are also less likely to damage the subs that way. You will also be operating them in a more linear region for the same given output level as the single driver. You also don't have to worry about a SSF when running sealed. Don't think there is a sound quality advantage of a sealed box though, they actaully exhibit more distortion near resonance (due to higher driver excursion) than a vented alignment and group delay differences are debatable when tuned low enough... It is also easier to do a sealed box right if you don't have alot of experience...

Are you at Maxwell?

^^ Yup. Also, guessing at sealed volume and ported volume (and tuning) or simply choosing a ratio between the two without modeling is completely pointless...

I disagree. The RMS rating is meaningless unless you have designed an enclosure that is inefficent enough that you will continually run into thermal limitations before mechincal ones. And don't think mechanical limits mean destruction 100% of the time. This also means you have moved far enough into the non-linear region of the driver's stroke that you are no longer gaining output by applying more power. Enclosure design is the primary driver of power requirements for a desired output level.

The advantage you have by coming to the SSA forums is; ~ massive amount of experience in practical and impractical applications ~ talking directly to industry or industry related professionals that actually have more experience then pointing to a picture in a Chinese catalog ~ scholastic and professional usage and understanding on a very precise level ~ almost distorted level of actual topical and applicable knowledge over other forums I could go on, but I would embarrass other sites more then I already am. Essentially when you have someone like Sean (///M5 an engineer with a background in acoustics and physics BTW), Mike (95Honda who has built just about everything you can imagine and then some over 2 decades), Brad (Impious who has has a far more elevated understanding of the science and design that goes into a speaker then just about anyone), shizzon (very well traveled SPL competitor/enclosure designer), Ricksi (talented enclosure designer and builder), bassaholic (Drew, a young but accomplished SPL competitor), etc, etc. etc. could keep going, ALL in the same topic trying to help out, I think it might be worth a moment to listen. Don't mind me, I just co-own a sub woofer brand. Wait, I though Sean was the head installer at the Orlando Florida Best Buy???

The RMS rating has nothing whatsover to do with how much the sub needs or how much output it will have. The only, and I mean the only thing, the RMS rating tells you is how much power a subwoofer can take on a continuos basis. It tells you absolutelu nothing else... You need to model to see what enclosure size will optimize your power you already have, if you want to look at it that way. But that is kind of backwards. You should always model for the the most efficient enclsoure you can build (size wise) with the response you desire. Power should be the last thing you decide. If you do it the other way around, you are going about it the wrong way...

Vented subwoofer enclosures do not really benefit from fill other than attenuating mechanical noise.

B&C here: http://www.zaphaudio.com/8test/

It is in the execution and driver quality. Anything Pyle, and anything with a "supertweeter" is going to sound like ass. Some of the more reputable manufacturers (Eminence higher end stuff, RCF, B&C) make drivers that sound and measure better than "car audio" offerings. They are usually more efficient. THis sometimes comes at the expense of low end extension. Again, most people throw this crap together to be loud, not sound good. It is like going to Walmart and expecting the 25yr old meth addict that works in the Audio/Video section to help you pick the accesories for your H/T install and then wondering why nothing works...

I have been wanting to play with these since they came out: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-828 A set active with a few hundred watts and an efficent set of tweeters would be alright, might not sound horrible if executed right... I am not a fan of the horns though, I know alot of people like them, but I would still go for a higher efficiency, liquid cooled conventional driver, or something semi-horn like these: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=277-084 I used the MD-37's before, they were similar but with ferrofluid (iirc). They were bulletproof and very loud... Bottom line, nothing is going to keep up with 4 18s and 20K at fulltilt, except for those retarded South American walls of sound for Carnival... You also have to realize you are looking at at least $1K for the front stage if you want to do anything decent, and this assumes mediocre amplifers/processing...

That is pretty high. This is where we tuned boxes 20 years ago and only had a few hundered watts to work with. We were also using tape decks alot and there was no real low bass... You will be OK if you have a SSF that will go that high, it isn't going to sound the best either. I would shoot more around 30Hz, if it were me...

Have you modeled it yet? Taking a stab with a ratio of ported to sealed and choosing a vent is meaningless. Just going by the ratio is very meaningless. You need to get the T/S parameters of those drivers and plug-n-chug in a modeling program. This is the only way you can see if what you are doing is going to work.