KU40

The crossover will be worked out with you ears as to what sounds best. For the sub amp, usually 70-80 hz low pass works fairly well. For the infinity perfects, which I assume have passive crossovers with them, you can just set the highpass around 70-80 as well, but again your ears will dictate. Plus you may have to raise it up if the mids can't play that low very well, or you can lower it (and lower the sub crossover along with it) if they can handle going lower without bottoming out. Same with the rear channels to the coaxials. Don't need to use the subsonic on the 4 channel. Oh, and the range would be x1. if you put it x10, the crossover would become 1,000 hz if you had it set at 100. It just multiplies whatever you set the crossover at.

Unfortunately so. You say it gradually gets worse as you keep playing? Is it only at full tilt or even when turned down?

Box specs?

Hola

This is why I don't mess with Kenwood's lower line. Excelon or nothing. I had a lower-end Kenwood head unit from like 2004, and noticed an SQ improvement upon the direct swap with my Alpine. Head units shouldn't color sound like that. Plus it skipped quite easily.

Not dogging on you or anybody, but just as a general statement- If we could all learn to control the volume knobs so that we didn't break equipment, we wouldn't have to deal with customer service at places.

yeah is there anyway i can get around this e.g buying a external crossover ??? You can turn it off and then buy an external subsonic filter to get the crossover point where you want it.

They're crap, like 50 watt subs. If you google them I'm sure you can find something. They're just funny because they're pink and I think orange, and have a picture of a dog on them. As for the hott setup subs, they were Orion's lower line. I think maybe 150 watts RMS, single 4 ohm voice coil.

There is no difference between square, round, and L-shaped. L-shaped just refers to if the port is too long to fit the depth of the box and you have to angle the port another direction to get the required length for the tuning you need. If you have a 12" deep box and need a 15" port, you make it L-shaped. If you only need an 8" deep port, you don't. Simple as that. As for internal vs. external, yes they are the same length because the volume of the box for the subs doesn't change. You just may be able to make the box 4 cubic feet gross instead of 5 cubic feet if you make the ports external because you wouldn't have port displacement.

Oh yeah, why didn't I think of phase. Try reversing the + and - on one mid and see if you get better response.

That's why I only go to the ER/doctor as a last resort with things like that. Unless it bleeds for more than a few minutes or the gash looks like a canyon that I can stick half my finger in, I don't go.

I love it man its an awsome sub and can def take abuse the magnet on it it huge. and thanks for that idea If you love the sub you have, why spend the money to change?

No, sub stage doesn't count. When we say 2-way, 3-way, what have you, we are only talking about the front stage. The sub is obvious so it isn't counted. As for the head unit problem, you'd just run one set of preouts to handle two sizes of the speakers, one set to handle the other in the front stage, and the third is for the sub (since it's just a sub preout, correct?) For instance, you could run the front preouts to a 4 channel with a y-splitter to get the signal to all channels. Set the head unit crossover where you want the midrange highpassed at, like 400 hz or whatever. Then on the amplifier, use the highpass on the front outputs to go to the tweeters, then the lowpass on the other two channels going to the midrange. Then you'd have the rear preouts from the head unit going to a 2 channel amp to power the midbass speakers up front. You could set the highpass on the head unit to 70 hz or wherever, then use the lowpass on the amp at 400 hz to bandpass the midbass.

Yeah it's blazin' out there.

Is there any fishing to be had in the rivers around the St. Croix park I'll be going to?

Smoke irritates my eyes. I'm sure those smokers you work with have a lot of problems. Normally trying to bully people into just letting them smoke there is just the tip of the iceberg. If they were considerate people they'd understand and move it outside.

Looks like you did a pretty good job on those doors. You've just run out of speaker capability. Maybe you need to step up to a 3-way active with a dedicated 8" midbass?

In case you want a second opinion, I second rushrun's opinion.

get a life the nightshades are the same weather its a 12 or an 18 only diffrence is the cone size motor, coil, and spiders are all the same Do not bash on other members in this fashion. Instead, follow Memphismzd's way of refuting the statement.

Since you love creating these threads so much, why don't you go ahead right now and create another thread about the Incriminator Audio Death Penalty, another about the RE Audio XXX, another about the Audioque HDC3, another about the Mach5 SPL, another about the DC Sounds lvl4, another about the MTX Jackhammer.......... You've already crossed the Xcon, BTL, and Nightshade off the list, as well as basically every mono amp that Sundown makes or is in the process of making.

This is going to be a boring week at the office (and next week for that matter). Don't get to go into the field until at least the first week of July.

Can't get much better than this: http://www.carsound.com/review_archive/amps/s835.html So it's a bit overrated and is actually about a 40 watt x 4 amp. I wouldn't say it's top of the line.

You've just reached the mechanical power handling of the mid, plain and simple. There is nothing you can do to any settings if you don't want to raise the crossover. Unless you have an EQ and can cut around 100 hz, that would maybe give you a little extra midrange and treble without the midbass stopping you. But then the midbass wouldn't be as loud relatively, so it may mess up the balance of the system. Other than that, if you just have the mids free air or IB in the doors, you could build sealed enclosures for them. That'll raise the mechanical handling a little. Or else just control the volume knob finger and be satisifed with what they can give you.

Max numbers mean squat. Just go by RMS, which is 2500. They probably don't use max like other manufacturers, to them max may be maximum RMS.

So then how does a subwoofer move in after the "DC" moves it out? Having 0 DC current would move it back to rest, but then how does it get the sub to move backwards physically, more into the motor (like when the coil hits the back plate during overexcursion)?