lithium

check the head unit wiring. does it happen with the sub on or off? does it happen with the speaker off but sub playing?

click on your name in the top right and select "my settings" then click signature on the left

any reason for limiting the choice to sundown? probably some other options out there to consider.

looks good. did you sand off the paint around the ground?

you're installing random drivers with no understanding of how evaluate their performance.

practically every reason you've listed for purchasing the tweeter is incorrect. not all tweeters are created equal. the performance of a driver is objective, it can be measured. it's a pretty safe assumption that any car audio driver is at the very least a bad value if not complete garbage. of course there are plenty of good reason to get a car audio passive set.

wire them in series.

no big alt = no big power if you're chasing output you've got other options.

ppi 1000 seems really solid and its really small.

you'd be better off going with more surface area if you have the space.

does the h handle lower loads?

couldn't you just measure voltage with several test tones? you would be able to see if there is any filtering at least. all you would need a dmm.

huun huur tu

Our craigslist sucks around here. I've never dealt with CL before now. kind of sketchy. probably just the type of person you attract when you sell a 1000 dollar car...

mongolian throat singing FTW

hopefully this guy from craigslist is legit and buys my old car today. actually talked to him on the phone so he might exist.

i hate buying stuff on parts-express. spending $100 for free shipping is too tempting.

where does the cookbook say that T-lines are forgiving? seems to me that the actual design is very complicated and that's before considering that this is going into a car.

i already have all that information as is evedent by my second post in this thread. i do infact have the space for a tline in my car but that doesnt make it a poor choice. i could even go as small as a cube sealed if i wanted to/the need arose. i cant really do that with one or both of my 15's can i? the point is that if you have room for a 10" tline (with the goal of output in mind) than just buy a larger sub and build a typical ported enclosure. the results will be much better in the given space.

the enclosure is more important than the sub itself. you need to confirm the enclosure spec required for the sub and the actually specs of the enclosures advertised by these sellers match. pretty sure 2 cu ft net for your sub is too big. though i didn't see spec on their website. high quality http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/ported-single-10-subwoofer-enclosure.html this could be an option, if they're on the ssa store i assume the seller is decent enough. just need to confirm the actual specs of the enclosure http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/slot-ported-single-10-inch-subwoofer-enclousre/

do some math, 15.75 x 13 x 15.75 = 1.87 cu ft. so there's no way this enclosure is 1.5 cu ft net. I think you have a couple options. either find a box built to spec online (ssa store might have one for sale) or get a design and find a builder local. I would get a design from someone reputable and not rely on a car audio shop. Alternatively, if you can't find a shop, you could take the cut sheet and have someone with tools do the cutting and then assemble yourself.

weird, my forum timezone was off by a few hours

still dead

the people you work with are idiots.

some extra reading material. the circuit diagrams should make this easier to follow. http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/ohmlaw.html