Duran

The SAZ-1500D does it's power at 1 ohm, not 2.

LOLZ on the cat Peng

Kicker. MaxxSoincs can lick my nuts.

And 37 isn't so different, perhaps for the OP even better. I really don't understand the fascination of the recommendations of low tunes. Sure they have a purpose and out of all the people commenting in this thread they would serve a purpose to me the most; however, there just isn't so much stuff in music that low and considering most drivers are built to be tuned higher regularly that makes sense. Modelling software makes things worse as people have no idea what the curve means or how effective cabin gain is. Last ported box I built was tuned higher than 37Hz, albeit for a reason, and no this was a box for my sister not for me personally. My design though. Your missing the point of tuning low Sean, his drivers will be more efficient at tuning making them louder at and around tuning, that is good for someone who likes low frequencies but bad if they tune too low because they risk mechanical failure if they play too far away from tuning. That's why I recommended 34-35 Hz. You know just as well as I do that 150 dB at 30 Hz. is far more impressive than 150 dB at 70 Hz.

depends, in all honesty, one tiny air leak isn't going to make any audible difference. Let alone several tiny air leaks. None of that is audible. I strongly disagree. Have you ever even heard a leaky sealed enclosure?

Welcome to SSA!

Welcome to SSA! Was there a question about ladies in the title? We do have a few female members.

The Q is not made for loud. If you want more output from your driver build a ported enclosure, if that still isn't enough get a BL or BTL.

why does it seem like your refering to me..its not my set up i was just there and now im giving my 02. the guy went out and spent 300 to have someone build him a box and it wasnt impressive. the box was to big for the treo almost double but it did what it was suppost to. Re-read my post, with emphasis on the red words.

Different buildhouse, different crossover settings. The SAE-1200 actually produces around 1500 watts, while the SAZ-1000 will do about 1200. The SAE is entry level, that is why they are cheaper.

Welcome to SSA!

Umm, he's white. Umm, wow.

He coulda' done a backflip and landed on his feet

You got that right

Yeah your right, damn he feel too nasty . Thats when you should just hang on the rim and catch a technical foul, never let go of a rim if your body is going in a swinging motion with a lot of forward momentum. You should add, "and if your too moronic to land on your feet"

As said above, a wire brush is the best for removing CA as well as preparing the surface for more glue.

If you want a good balance of what you think is low and high bass, tune to 34-35 Hz.

A bolt and T-nut is much stronger than just a screw in MDF. If you want something hard to steal her allen head bolts or even better, torx head bolts.

I'd skullfuck you if I could. OP: You need a minimum of 100,000 watts to even get the BTL to move! Seriously though? Do some research on drivers and their behavior at all levels of power input. There is NO minimum amount of power needed for ANY driver.

Who's that?

The XXX is an AMAZING woofer, it's sad someone like that didn't give it then installation it deserves.

My subs are eleventybillion watts peak power, so?

Any amplifier you can find will work perfectly at driving those woofers.

the q is not an """SQL""" subwoofer, it is a sq subwoofer. it was not at all intended to get loud. to the o.p. get the bl, tune low and build a good box inside fi's recommendations shut up idiot. it aint a true sq sub you dumbass...... when have you ever heard of a true sq woofer with an rms rating of 1000. get real. dont correct me. Please stop spewing verbal diarrhea.