Duran

This ^ doesn't make sense at all. I've read it 3 or 4 times and I still can't understand it. All the power in the box ? You never hear the rear wave ? Essentially yes, it does sound weird but it works... In essence you are putting all the sound in the enclosure, and you really won't hear much of it, the sound is meant to come from the front of the cone not the back. The rear sound wave never leaves the enclosure, is that what you don't get? Sound is not meant to 'come from the front', it is meant to come from a perturbation in the air, which can be cause by a cone moving back and forth, 2 wings flapping, a door beeing shut etc. The subwoofer is not a fan or hose which moves air in one direction which is what can be understood from your explanation. The cone oscillates back and forth and produces sound. It does not shoot air forward. Or backward. Not air, sound waves. If the sound never leaves the enclosure then why wouldn't you just use a sealed box all the time. Because there is no release of pressure in the enclosure, there is with a vented enclosure and they are more efficient because of it.

That's just fine for 1/0

This ^ doesn't make sense at all. I've read it 3 or 4 times and I still can't understand it. All the power in the box ? You never hear the rear wave ? Essentially yes, it does sound weird but it works... In essence you are putting all the sound in the enclosure, and you really won't hear much of it, the sound is meant to come from the front of the cone not the back. The rear sound wave never leaves the enclosure, is that what you don't get? Sound is not meant to 'come from the front', it is meant to come from a perturbation in the air, which can be cause by a cone moving back and forth, 2 wings flapping, a door beeing shut etc. The subwoofer is not a fan or hose which moves air in one direction which is what can be understood from your explanation. The cone oscillates back and forth and produces sound. It does not shoot air forward. Or backward. Not air, sound waves.

Is he a member?

u should get a single powermaster. it will cost u a lot less than a kinetik. i dont know about the dekas and how good they are as i have no experience with them. people rave about them tho as they are not that expensive and do work. i would also be interested to see the data sheets www.remybattery.com Thanks yalll. It is a 130A. I dont think that would change much though. Which Deka do I get off the website because it looks so confusing and they have little specs. It looks like most of em are the same battery. 9a31

That's much more complicated, but if you want to. Stick to 12-16 square inches of port area per cubic foot. I personally did 15 square inches per cube ant it's worked well for me.

sorry guys kind of new to this, setting up the pioneer avh-p4000 in a conversion van. the only part im having troubles with is on the relay that says "decks remote turn on wire" Can anyone explain what that is or provide any figures or pictures.. Thanks a bunch That is a 12 volt switched power. It turns your amplifier on and off.

This ^ doesn't make sense at all. I've read it 3 or 4 times and I still can't understand it. All the power in the box ? You never hear the rear wave ? Essentially yes, it does sound weird but it works... In essence you are putting all the sound in the enclosure, and you really won't hear much of it, the sound is meant to come from the front of the cone not the back. The rear sound wave never leaves the enclosure, is that what you don't get?

Yeah that guy is really annoying!

Only 5-6 cubic feet? You realize that you have 19 cubic feet available? I say about 8 cubic feet with 120 square inches of port area tuned between 30-35 hz.

How doesn't it make sense to you? There is more air displacement on the inside of the enclosure when inverted so you LOSE output on the outside of the enclosure, because all the "power" is in the inside of the box, and you never hear the rear sound wave.

I wouldn't recommend letting them build your enclosure. You can build your own for cheaper and it will probably outperform theirs and be better quality. If you don't want to look into www.fishercustoms.com or www.poundthatsound.com both make phenomenal enclosures.

Flatwind coil.

u should get a single powermaster. it will cost u a lot less than a kinetik. i dont know about the dekas and how good they are as i have no experience with them. people rave about them tho as they are not that expensive and do work. i would also be interested to see the data sheets www.remybattery.com

That's why you upgrade both

Sorry about the excessive comments but thats where im stuck at. If i might have to get a bigger alternator then why not spend the money that i would be buying a battery with on a alternator? well you are asking if i am going to need a bigger alt in the long run why not just got a bigger alt! well how about lets look at this mathematically for a 2000rms setup at 1ohm your amp will need like 45amps. but 2000rms/12.8volts = 156amp draw! so if your alt puts out 150 you will be able to supply the demand. is that correct or did i screw something up? i will just get a big enough battery to support my system. right now my setup is 1 15inch ns 2- batcap 2000's and STOCK battery and STOCK alt (105) and a SAZ2000 pushing all it is worth. my lowest voltage i have read off of my stinger volt meter is 12.8volts at full tilt after playing a full song. I have 2 Deka Intimidators with a stock 90amp alt and stock battery...with an SAZ3000D and 100.4 and I never go below 12.8 on a tone.

So you would recommend a battery & battery isolator over just a new alternator? Why would I need a extra battery anyways. I thought it would be easier to just use the yellow top up front and a h/o alternator. And this is just a daily system... no comps at all idk wtf sadistc is talking about ... u dont need 2 alternators ... you should be fine with just a second battery (preferably one that shawn suggested) ... you need a second battery because at idle your alt will not produce enough current to ur amp ... if u get a second battery it will support ur amp for a longer period of time and ur voltage will not drop as much Then why not just get a bigger alternator. I thought i read it a million times that would be best in the long run over a battery because i a battery cant produce power? I dont want to put strain on my alternator if I dont need to. & i didnt pay the dual alternator for 2000 watts MAX idea any mind. Lol usually the bigger the alternator the less output they produce at idle ... it will also cost more money ... an extra battery will also stabalize ur voltage more ... according to iraggi you shouldnt use an isolator at all ... "for every reason to get an isolator there is 10 bad ones" Thats a first... get a battery over an alternator. A 200A alternator is around the same price of a Kinetik khc2000 No. You should get both, although you don't NEED a larger alternator it won't hurt.

There's an intruder in the group ! And that intruder is the only somewhat decent looking car in that group. Nice scenery though. Where did you drive to Tom? We took the Beeline Highway up to Payson then on to Flagstaff to have lunch at Snowbowl. Then we came home along 89A through Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona. Which one is yours Tom?

Not sure who told you they don't like over 3v... but the limit is 6v. There are issues with fancy RCA cable connectors, though, many times they don't make good contact. Cheaper cables don't have this problem. do u consider the knukonceptz krystal cables fancy? ... i just bought them and i am buying some sundown amps I have seen those work for people... anything with high tech looking ends on the cable has the potential to be an issue, but not always. ya. i dont think it is necessarally a problem with just sundown amps ... i know my kicker and jbl amps were having problem with my 120 dollar 4 channel and 2 channel tsunami cables You do realize that wire is wire right?

Hey any of you guys paintball? I'm looking to upgrade my A5, what are some good sites for parts?

They can, but that's what your mid is for, midbass. Not sub bass. That's why my front stage combines with the bass so that 80Hz is not either one, but both together Underlapping will yield better results versus overlapping and causing more then one kind of speaker playing the same frequency. oh and 80 Hz. is too high for a subwoofer. That's in the midbass range.

Output remained the same for so long cause Jacob is a great man! And because Sundown is a bad ass name

It takes power to make power buddy.

They can, but that's what your mid is for, midbass. Not sub bass.

Your front stage.