manbeer

Nice to see that that's the kind of people we have on here!

just got to hold an Icon for the first time this afternoon. very nice! beefy lil 10 inch, i can wait to hear it my friend is going to be running two of them sealed each off an alpine PDX1000.1

Its at the dealer right now, waiting on parts. Hopefully it should be done in the next couple of days but at least i finally got a loaner car He know what is going on as i have called several times during this fiasco, and he knows the dealer is blaming the problem on his work, though he is trying to deny it. I will provide the bill, with written and photo documentation of his errors, and hope that he is willing to do at least something for me...especially when i was the one that told him that he NEEDED to switch the seatback and bottom cushion on to the other frame and that was the the only way that it would work properly. he did the one side and got lazy on the other

looks nice, but something about the front looks a little "pontiac-ish" Also i am not a huge fan of the smaller lincoln offerings, if i would buy something from them i would go big, and go V8

that seems pretty big, but i guess if you have enough port area, after all displacement you would end up with much less airspace. for my eventual pair of 10's i'll be starting with around 3.5 gross

That, or "nothing in life is free" would be applicable in this situation, lol

thanks, we will see what happens when i go up there this weak. even though this was a swap performed on his personal vehicle and mine, by himself and his employees, i would expect him to maintain the same professionalism as if i were a normal, paying customer

As a few of you may know, i brought my car to a auto customization shop last week to have an interior swap done. I saw the advertisement on our local G35 forums, the owner was looking for a stock interior in black for an 05-07 coupe and he would give the other party his custom two tone suede interior, with glassed door panels for 3 way comps, full trunk made w/ amp rack for 2 12's, etc. I was the first person to respond to the ad, so we made arrangements for me to go there the following day. i arrived at his location, over a hundred miles from my home, at around noon. I offered to help but they said they wanted to have their guys do it to ensure everything was done properly. After about 2 hours of waiting the first installer came to me and said that the rear deck couldn't be installed in my car because on the (shop owners) other car, the metal needed to be trimmed out. I politely told them not to worry about it, that i would modify it to fit my car when i got home. an hour later, another installer came to me to tell me that the door panels would not fit because where they had sealed them off with expanding foam and 1/4 inch ply, the actual metal in the door would need to be cut. again, i told them not to worry, i will tweak them to fit my car when i get home around this time i noticed that my seats had the memory function, and his did not. i called a fried with experience swapping different seats into these cars and was told that the only proper way to do this was to swap the seatback and cushion from one frame to the other. The electrical workings were different for the different years. they swapped the parts over on the passenger seat but as it came time to wrap up the job it was getting cold and dark so i guess they didn't bother on the drivers side. they were putzing around trying to figure out why the seat didn't get power. I showed him where the fusebox was cause he didn't realize that there was another one behind the battery :/ and i went inside to warm up while they fooled around with things trying to get it to work. a little while later they came in and started grabbing the extra parts to put in my car, said all they had to do was make a slight modification and it was fine. as i went to leave i noticed the interior lights were not working and figured that it was a blown fuse or something left unplugged about half a mile up the road i stopped because there was a vibration on the front tire that was BAD. it ended up being a piece of dynamat stuck to the tire. i also noticed the hood wasn't shut on one side, due to the fact that he left the fuse box cover off and on top of the engine :/ as i left, i noticed that the VDC, slip, and other lights in the cluster were all illuminated, and that also the tach and speedo were not working. shut the car off quick at a light and restarted and it was still the same. i drove for about 30 mins towards home, with all the electronics still acting funny, and stopped at a dunkin donuts to use bathroom and get coffee. went to get back in the car, it won't start. first it caught for a sec, then just cranking. infiniti roadside assistance came through, and i had to get a ride home (60 miles) in the middle of the night now the dealer took a look at the car, and at his slight modification (jumpers to power the seat, woohoo) and of course denied warranty coverage, so that leaves me stuck with a 1350 dollar estimated repair The guy who owns the shop that did the shoddy work of coure is denying it to the death, saying that the dealer is bullchitting me, there is no way he could have messed anything up, etc. the dealer is saying that where he tapped into the wiring, he fed back power into the body control module, and shorted it out. makes sense to me. I politely explained to the shop owner that my car was running fine when i went in, and left broken, so he is at fault. So anyway, when i (hopefully) get my car back in the next few days i have to return to him to swap the seat frames which we already agreed to. I was planning to present him with the bill and ask him to reimburse me for the repairs that he is documented as the cause of, with pics. He will probably refuse, and i will either have to ask him for his insurance info, or take him to small claims for. I was thinking though, he has some used equipment that i would be interested in. The car originally had the DLS ultimate iridium 8.3i set in the doors, so i know he has those and figure since the street price seems to be about 700 used and he probably paid less cause he owns a shop that might be an option. He also has these PPI DCX12 subs that he offered to me for 250 for the pair. I was thinking of telling him if he gives me the 3 way set and subwoofer that we can call it even, i would imagine that he paid less than a grand for all of it and i know that probably 800-1000 is the street price, so it would be cheaper for him than paying out of pocket. Should i do this, or does it make me look like some kind of scam artist if i offer to settle for merchandise?

what kind of power would be needed?

looks great, nice clean install and great choice of products. let me ask you your thoughts on the KLM cable, how do you like it in terms of not only flexibility but performance as well?

I read the thread here and on the other forum, thats why i decided to give my opinion......... ok, just wanted to make sure you knew what happened as you will likely be greeted with suspicion by others, especially if you don't introduce yourself

Just saying that your posts seem like the previous sales tactics of dr. crankenstein, if you were to read the thread here you would understand...

oh yes, then there is the fact that on CA you list your location as Philadelphia, and here as NJ.

I just find it a little curious that you signed up for 2 different audio forums in the past day and on each one, your only post was about dr crankenstein products. no introduction, no other info on yourself but the bare minimum required by the site. it just gives the impression that you are either the same person as before that was banned, or affiliated with the same person.

oh wait, here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=358452

i smell teh fishies how come your post on CA disappeared? i saw you on there a couple hours ago repping crankenstein and now it's gone which says something

oh ok, i was going to use a pair of them in the front door, as midbass speakers so for that they should be fine

the shop i was at recently who i traded interiors with had cut holes out in the doors and cut out the entire rear deck with a jigsaw, not cleanly at all but gaping, jagged holes. on their demo 2005 G35 that was a lease. You should see the atrocious subwoofer box they built. it's all unevenly put together with pieces of wood that are cut wrong and covered in silicone and gobs of fiberglass to cover it up. The thing would be sup-par even from an 8th grader, just that it's covered up in a nice trim panel that makes it look good. screws are crooked and not in all the way, its a mess. These guys consider themselves "finest in the industry" and i enjoyed my time talking to the people there who were spreading misinformation. "you can't only have speakers in the front, it won't sound right," "These subs are dual 2 ohm, they work with any monoblock amp," "you can't have clean sound with a factory head unit and line out converter no matter what" were a few of my favorites oh yeah... my car is currently sitting at the dealer awaiting a new body control module, cause they wouldn't let me help with the interior swap since they wanted "everything done right" after seeing what other people that are considered professional turn out, i realize more and more now how grossly i underestimated my installing abilities

what are peoples feelings on these vs. the daytons or sls? just curious cause i know of a person selling a new set for 90 shipped http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...product_id=3340

I used one of the Dayton reference 8in in my car for some midbass, it was in a .5 cube sealed box, it had great sq but couldnt seem to handle that much power (maybe 200 rms) so i couldnt turn it up too much. Today i just ordered 4 of the E8s from the presale($60 each). i hope one of those will work out better than the dayton( i think the dayton needs a bigger box to perform better) how in the heck much power are you wanting to send these things? 200+ is crazy. if a midbass can handle 200 watts I'd say it's doing exceptionally well. i was thinking the same, i'll be sending them about 150, and the mids and tweets about 80, off of a rockford T3002 and a T4004

you could get the 100.4 and wire 4 tweets per channel in parallel for a .75 ohm load or wire 2 pairs, each pair series connected, in parallel per channel. 3 ohm load

so in the event that i chose the SLS, it would probably be beneficial for me to go with a 4 inch midrange and tweak the door panel a bit then to go with a 3, eh? That way they would more likely take up some slack

What if giving the midbass a sealed enclosure is not an option? i mean, they are set up sealed now but i will have to cut them apart to fit on my unmodified door shell. if i can go sealed it probably wont give enough airspace so the best i can do is dampen the hell out of the doors and run IB. also how are the E8's for midbass? i thought they were strictly sub-bass drivers?

my body control module and possibly ipdm are fried as a result of some ghetto hack modification they made to not put the effort into switching the seat cushion onto the frame. about 1350 in repairs which are not covered by warranty. he is giving me the run around, i may have to bring him to small claims court to get my money back

any recommendations on a resonably priced pair of 8"? i was thinking of dayton reference or peerless SLS