Impious

No, they do not come with a fuse/fuse holder. The main fuse at the battery will be sufficient to protect the amplifier. Just select the fuse size based on the amplifier's requirements rather than the wire gauge. No need to add another fuse holder before the amp.....it won't do anything the main fuse won't or can't do. EDIT: That's assuming you aren't using a distribution block, and that the power wire will run straight from the battery to the amplifier. If you're using a distro block, you can fuse the amplifier there.

Tried calling Alpine? I think that's your best bet, to make sure the HU isn't defective. Apparently there's either a setting or a malfunction that is keeping the MEQ from turning on, which from my understanding from the manual is not allowing you access to the bass/treble controls.

Sent you a PM

If you're bored this weekend, I plan on getting them wrapped and start the last of the 'glassing

Most people don't realize that you can do it with any DVC driver. Although if you have a driver specifically designed to be used with RDO like the Atlas, I think overall results will probably be a little better.

Yes, terribly. But I'd venture a guess that the setups that have speakers located in those locations probably aren't too worried about imaging......

I've never had good luck forward firing in a sedan, unless you are actually sealing off the drivers at the rear seat. But if you have enough room, just try the enclosure in different positions and see what you like best.

Does the MEQ actually turn on when you try to turn it on?

Any way to edit the latest comments on the side bar? I just think this one ends at a bad spot: Other than that....looks great!

From the MANUAL: 1 Press Rotary encoder (AUDIO) repeatedly to choose the desired mode. Each press changes the mode as follows: SUBWOOFER*1 -> BASS*2 -> TREBLE*2-> BALANCE -> FADER*3 -> DEFEAT -> VOLUME -> SUBWOOFER*1 *1 When the subwoofer mode is set to OFF, its level cannot be adjusted. *2 When the MultEQ is set to OFF, its level cannot be adjusted. *3 If you set the 4.2ch/2.2ch switch (pages 40 to 42) to 2.2ch, you cannot adjust the FADER mode.

I'd sell ya my DVA-9860/H701 combo

10*log(1000/300) = 5.2db Ofcourse that doesn't take things like power compression and other real-world issues into account, so don't expect a full 5db increase.

Someone who understands the physics involved would be more than capable of answering your questions without necessarily having to have built any (or 3) themselves. The physics doesn't change and results can be predicted pretty easily if the individual is competent. The only thing that will change is the subjective perception of the "sound" and personal preference which is going to be different from person to person so any answer you receive to that end will essentially be meaningless. And on the reverse side, someone could have built a dozen bandpass enclosures themselves without having the slightest clue of what is actually going on and why. Those responses would be essentially meaningless as well. Your first question lends itself to being subjective. What one finds works for them may not be what works for you or me. It depends on the goals of the individual and the system. So you want people to come in and give you a consensus on a subjective topic? Good luck with that. Personally I'd rather have the objective information from someone who actually understands the concept rather than rely on someone with an arbitrary number of feathers in their cap who may or may not have an actual understanding of the topic, but who can easily give a quick (but useless) subjective opinion of what "worked for them". It sounds to me like it's time for you to pick up a good book on enclosure design so that you can answer the objective questions yourself, which will allow you to arrive at the subjective answer of what works best for you.

Just for an example; If you have a driver with an Re of .7ohm and an Le of 2mH, you'd end up with an Fc of 56hz. It's the amount of wire in the gap. A larger diameter coil is going to necessarily have more wire in the gap (all else equal) Certainly it's possible to reduce the inductance by using less wire or other tricks to lower inductance. But as I said; it could become an issue if it wasn't addressed.

Like I explained in your other thread.....all of those extra speakers just make things worse, not better. You would be better off with one set of speakers per channel rather than trying to fill every hole with a speaker on top of adding more.

Inductance could easily become another issue. I don't really know how much SPL guys look at the inductance of a coil, but if the inductance is high enough (which will increase as coil diameter increases) it will negatively affect the performance of the driver within the frequency band SPL'ers use. With great coil size, comes great inductance. (Anyone catch the Spiderman thing I had going on there?)

If he plans on running sealed, SA-10's wouldn't be a good choice. Without knowing anything about his budget, what size enclosure he can fit, what driver depth he can fit, what amplifier he will be using (if he has one) and what his goals for his system are.....no one else can help.

this might be also a dumb question. but is the high qts option able to be used in a ported box? or is this a no no? like the guy previous said there reall isn't any info on this. thx It's a no-no. If you want to use a ported enclosure, use the normal driver. Don't put the High Qts driver in a ported enclosure.

It would be pretty stupid to buy peanut butter if you were getting ready to eat breakfast instead of lunch. Jelly would obviously be the logical choice if one were getting ready to eat breakfast.

I like peanut butter and jelly. But I don't have money for both.....should I buy just peanut butter or just jelly? Well, that depends on several different factors. For example, in the morning I'd rather have the grape jelly on some toast, if it's later in the day then a nice peanut butter sandwich would be nice.

If you want to run a sealed enclosure, you'd be better off looking for a sub designed for optimum performance in that type of enclosure.....which the SA-12 wasn't designed for. SA-12 has a low EBP, it was designed for optimum performance in a ported enclosure.

So what is the competitive advantage of this driver over, say, an Exodus Shiva-X2? Shorting rings in the motor? If so, what kind and where?

I don't know what your definition of "keep up" is, but it's going to be impossible for a pair of 6.5"/7" drivers to "keep up" with an 18" in the true sense of the term. As for performance, click the link I posted. Zaph reviewed those as well.

Hrmph, I guess I didn't research the HU itself. Based on what he said I just assumed it actually decoded and processed the 5.1 surround prior to output. If that's not the case then I whole-heartedly agree with Sean. Skip the 5.1 speakers if you don't have true 5.1 processing and go with a better quality 2-channel setup.