Impious

Looks like a European interpretation of the early Dodge Vipers.

Sundown Audio - SAE-1000D Linkable to another SAZ-1000D for 1800 watts @ 2 ohms Could that be a typo, or a Freudian slip? Hehe.

That's pretty terrible speaker placement, honestly. What's the point of all of the foam?

No cant since they are still two different amps inside, just cause they make around the same rms doesnt mean they can be strapped together. The post above which supposedly contains a copy-n-paste email from Db-r states they are exactly the same internally. In which case yes, they would be able to be strapped together. However I would advise you verify the information with Jacob before attempting.

Getting 14.4V at the amp with the amp idling does not necessarily mean you have a great ground. That said it would still be helpful if you tested another amp on the same wiring and subwoofer. If nothing else grab a cheapie from Walmart, plug it in & see if it works, then return it after you're done. Or pop the bottom on the amp (assuming it won't void any warranties) and see if anything is obviously burnt.

HPF on the amp would have nothing to do with the tweeters blowing as long as you were using the supplied passive crossovers.

Need to know your budget. Need to know the available crossover frequencies and slope. Need to know about space constraints, both diameter and depth.

Eclipse 8053 Eclipse 8443 Eclipse 8454 Eclipse 8455 Clarion DRZ9255 Clarion DXZ785 Pioneer 880PRS Those are the units I can think of off hand, excluding Alpine, that offer a 3-way crossover. But hell, for a lot less than $600 you could grab a used H701

Doesn't matter. If you mount them closer to the speakers you save some cost and time by not having to run 2 sets of speakers wires per side the entire length of the vehicle.

IMO PR's would be a bad idea for a high output system due to the displacement requirements.

Double check your subwoofer's wiring to make sure it's not shorted out somewhere and that there aren't any stray strands touching anything else. If possible, try a different amp on the same wiring and same subwoofer.

Those power ratings are a lie. Do not pay attention to them. There are several factors that affect how loud a speaker will get. Yes, having more available power by adding an external amplifier could potentially help. However, your speaker choice is unfortunately not a good starting point. My honest advise if you are working on a budget is to upgrade your speakers (again), maximize your installation by properly installing them and adding the necessary sound deadening, and then add an amplifier when the budget allows. It's more money, but results in the long run will far exceed what you could expect with your current speaker selection.

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Are you trying to strengthen the door from the pressure of speakers in your door, or from your subwoofers?

I have no idea why they blew either. If you had Diamond Audio tweeters on the supplied Diamond Audio passives, then they should not have blown due to excessive low frequency as I would assume Diamond would be intelligent enough to properly design passive crossovers for their speakers. The fact that they both blew would lead me to believe they were overpowered. More details on how the amplifier and other settings throughout the system were set would be required aswell.

What electrical upgrades have you done or do you plan on doing? You're not going to have good results w/ 3.5kw on a stock electrical system, if you haven't upgraded anything yet. If you have, it would be helpful to know what your upgrades have been.

What is the actual problem causing the difference? From glancing at the side-by-side it looks like the spiders on the new are attached to the former lower than the originals, but that would affect where the voice coil centers in the gap and if the cone and surround are attached in the same manor then the spacing there would be the same (and it could also just be the angle/etc). Is the surround properly seated on the cone? Without knowing what was causing the difference I wouldn't be able to suggest a remedy, as if something is misaligned it could seriously affect performance (and longevity) even if you were able to somehow get it to "fit". I'd suggest either saying screw it and get a new recone, or take some measurements of the two and figure out where they are off.

If you get bored, feel free to calculate out their actual sensitivity; Subwoofer Sensitivity - SSA Car Audio Forum

You said "6db out of 18db", which means you must be talking about the EQ network built into the amplifier. 6db of boost requires that the amplifier output 4x the power. So if you have the gain set to where the amplifier is outputting 1250w and then apply the additional 6db of boost, the amplifier will try to output 5000w of power at and near the center frequency of the EQ. What's going to happen when that 1250w amplifier tries to output 5kw? Clipping. Negative kicker sx amplifiers have no dials its all digtial through a controller on the dash the amp has built in DSP, Kompressor, and EQ as well as LPF, Band pass, and HPF. The Eq focus is set to flat at 60hz with a Q value of 1.0 which is nothing. As far as gain goes it has three option 1v-2v-4v. It then has an adjustment of gain in db with a high of 18db per channel and a low of 0, 0 is no gain. According to the manual: Gain Menu; Now use the UP and DOWN keys to increase or decrease the gain of the amplifier in .5 dB increments from 0 dB to +12 dB. (.0 to 12.0) EQ Menu; BOOST/CUT is how much you want to boost or cut the equalizer and has a range of -18 dB to + 18 dB in .5 dB steps In which case, if you are using the adjustment that goes up to 18db that would be the equalizer and not the gain as the gain only goes to 12db.

You said "6db out of 18db", which means you must be talking about the EQ network built into the amplifier. 6db of boost requires that the amplifier output 4x the power. So if you have the gain set to where the amplifier is outputting 1250w and then apply the additional 6db of boost, the amplifier will try to output 5000w of power at and near the center frequency of the EQ. What's going to happen when that 1250w amplifier tries to output 5kw? Clipping.

Meh.

Well then how about proving that they aren't? CEA Compliant from what I have read was all "Marketing Gimic" Not trying to start an argument, would just like a better explanation on how to properly rate a mobile audio amplifier? It's not hard; The amplifiers are rated to output X wattage at X impedance with XX.X voltage input at X% distortion. I've never seen an actual test that accurately measured all four parameters to demonstrate that the amplifiers do indeed output significantly higher power than that rated by Sundown under the test conditions specified by Sundown for determining their power rating. I have no idea if they are underrated or not; But a whole lot of people claim they are, and no one has been able to provide any evidence to support that claim. That's all I'm asking for....proof.

I guess I don't see the point in spending 30% more for a Sundown when he explicitly stated he does not intend to upgrade or add subs. The fixed subsonic likely isn't that big of an issue. Even if he is running a ported enclosure a 25hz @ 24db/oct subsonic would likely be sufficient protection unless the enclosure is tuned ridiculously high. If he's not running a ported enclosure that's tuned ridiculously high then it's a non-issue. If he absolutely requires a variable subsonic there may be more affordable options than those Sundowns that would suite his purposes just as well. Everyone claims Sundown is underrated......but I've never seen anyone prove it IMO jump on that deal for the Kicker amp. Should be an excellent match for your subwoofer at a great price (assuming you don't absolutely require a variable subsonic due to an extremely high tuned ported enclosure).

www.sounddeadenershowdown.com Go there if you are in need of sound deadening. Don't buy Fatmat...as mentioned it's asphalt based which is an inferior material, hence it's an inferior product.

I wouldn't enclose them, unless you are worried about controlling cone excursion in the bottom octaves. Modeling them the difference between two of them sealed in a .4cuft enclosure (.707 Qtc) and two of them IB from 70hz and up is nonexistent, from 70hz and down the IB has a more gradual rolloff (and thus more output). But sealed in .4cuft the drivers don't exceed Xmax with rated power, IB they exceed Xmax @ 45hz with rated power. Given I believe you intended to set the highpass somewhere in the 50-60hz range this shouldn't pose much of an issue assuming you use an acceptably steep slope. So I would mount them to a solid baffle in your door (affixed to the metal door frame, not the plastic panel) with appropriate amounts of sound deadening applied to the door to eliminate resonance and rattles, and a solid barrier to properly "seal" the inner sheetmetal door panel. For tips, information and products to accomplish the sound deadening aspect I would highly recommend you contact Don @ SDS The drivers will primarily be operating within their piston range, so there won't be much difference in the frequency response of the speakers themselves between on and off axis.