Impious

First, get rid of the capacitor. Second, none of us can predict the future. There are a wide multitude of factors that need to be considered; Your listening habits, music choice, system settings, the health of the current electrical system, type and severity of any problems if any do arise, etc etc. We can not troubleshoot a problem that does not yet exist. You need to first install all of the equipment and see how your current electrical system handles it once installed before adding or upgrading any additional electrical system components (batteries, etc). If you do have issues, you can report back with the type of problem you are having, the severity of the problem, and what circumstances the problem occurs in. From there we can assist you in troubleshooting. You may install it all and realize you have no problems with your current electrical system, which will do nothing but save you time and money compared to trying to troubleshoot a problem that doesn't yet exist.

Any idear what the offending frequency range is? I would imagine you have a region where the reflection isn't really a problem, and some region where you notice the problem. It's hard to tell what the dimension of the dash are there, but if the problem frequencies are higher and the dimension there in the corner of the dash aren't bad, you may be able to tame them with some possibly unobtrusive open cell foam shoved there in the corner of the dash. An informal waveguide would probably work, but I think anything useful would probably be too obtrusive.

Is your goal still mainly just to get loud? As much as it pains me to say this, you might be better off with some horn loaded tweeters or compression drivers with pro audio horns. Would be cheaper than that Morel tweeter and get 3x as loud off of 10w of power. Something like the Eminence APT-80

In my car, I used a wire coat hanger. Bent the coat hanger into a straight piece, fished the coat hanger through the rubber boot, taped the wire on one end then pulled it back through. Not sure if it will be that easy in your vehicle or not.

Don't even look at power ratings on tweeters. You will never, ever, put 200w to a tweeter. The lower you cross, the steeper the crossover slope needs to be or you'll greatly restrict power handling and thus output capabilities. Got a link or model number for the tweeters you are looking at?

Pinned it for you.

Found this guide on another forum, and given the slew of recent threads on troubleshooting noise, thought I would post it here. One word of warning is that some HU's and/or processors nowadays have a zero bit mute, which essentially cuts off the output during low signal passages to reduce noise.....so be aware if this is a feature your unit has. Onward to the guide; How can you eliminate alternator whine in a car audio system? If you have alternator whine in a car audio system and want to get rid of it, there is only one sure-fire way to do it. David Navone and Richard Clark from Autosound 2000 in the USA developed the following step-by-step instructions. If you follow the instructions EXACTLY, you are guaranteed to trace and eliminate the noise in your car audio system. Don’t miss a step and don’t assume that something is OK without checking it. Each time you check for noise, you should do it with the engine running at 1500 to 2000 rpm and the headlights on full beam so that the alternator will be charging. The tests with the CD player connected should be done with a ‘zero bit’ track playing and the volume at maximum. Set your CD player to ‘repeat’ if it has that feature. Safety. Make sure when doing noise tests that the parking brake is on and working, and that the vehicle is in neutral or ‘park’. Perform these tests in an area with good ventilation or use an extension hose on the exhaust to route the fumes outside. Step 1. Check the Amplifiers 1a. Unplug the RCA cables from the amplifier/s and mute the signal at the input by using shorting plugs. This will isolate the amplifier from the rest of the car stereo installation. You can make shorting plugs by taking cheap male RCA plugs and soldering the centre and outer terminals together. This shorts out the input of the amplifier/s to ensure that it has zero signal. Has the noise gone? Yes. Go straight to Step 2. Reduce The System. No. Go to 1b. 1b. Disconnect the speakers from the amp and connect a pair of test speakers to it. Make sure the test speakers are not in contact with the car body. The purpose of this step is to ensure proper isolation of the speakers and the speaker leads from the car's chassis. Has the noise gone? Yes. Check speakers, speaker leads and passive crossovers for proper isolation from the car's chassis. Shift passive crossovers to a location away from power cables and the car’s body. No. Go to 1c. 1c. Isolate the amplifier from the chassis of the car. There must not be any electrical contact between the car's chassis and the amplifier, except for the grounding point. Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the amplifier isolated from the chassis of the car. Make sure that the amplifier is grounded in just one point. No. Go to 1d. 1d. Supply the amplifier with an isolated power source, for example an external car battery or a 12-Volt DC power supply. Has the noise gone? Yes. Noise is entering the amplifier via the power supply, try changing the grounding point and add external power supply filtering. Consider changing the amplifier. No. The amplifier has some severe problems, is totally isolated and still noisy. Replace it or have it repaired. That is the end of Step 1. You have now either eliminated the amplifier and speakers as a problem or you have replaced a faulty amplifier. Now you can go on to Step 2. Step 2. Reduce the System. 2a. The amplifier is known to be OK. It is now time to disconnect any signal processors (equaliser, electronic crossover, etc.) and connect the signal from the output of the head unit directly into the input of the amplifier. Has the noise gone? Yes. The noise source must be either one or more of the processors or possibly the signal route. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you didn’t have any signal processors and you are using the signal cable in its normal, installed route then the problem is solved. No. Go to 2b. 2b. Run new signal cables over a new route between the head unit and the amplifier. Has the noise gone? Yes. Permanently route the signal cables in the new route. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. Go to 2c. 2c. Isolate the case of the head unit from car's chassis. There must not be any electrical contact between the head unit and car chassis except for a single grounding point. Beware of antenna grounds and pullout cases! Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the head unit isolated from the car's chassis and any other metal parts in the dash. Ground the head unit at one point. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. Go to 2d. 2d. Move the head unit ground to a quieter grounding point. Test a number of points and also try grounding the head unit to the same point as the amplifier. Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the head unit using the quiet grounding point. Go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. Go to 2e. 2e. Move the head unit as near to the amplifier as possible. Then connect output of the head unit to the amplifier with the shortest possible RCA cables. Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the head unit one step at a time. Check for noise after each step during the reinstallation. Once you have the head unit installed, noise free go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. Go to 2f. 2f. Supply the head unit with an isolated power source, for example an external car battery or a 12 VDC power supply. Make sure that car chassis is not in contact with the head unit. Has the noise gone? Yes. The head unit is sensitive to noise in the supply voltage. Add power supply filtering to the supply voltage for the head unit or use an isolated power supply. You may be better to change the head unit. Once you have a head unit installed noise free, go to Step 3. ‘Add Signal Processors’. If you don’t have any signal processors then your problem is solved. No. There is a serious problem with the head unit. Go to Step 4 'Check the Vehicle' and/or change the head unit. Step 3. Add Signal Processors. At this level the amplifier is known to be good. The car's electrical system is OK and the reinstalled head unit is working fine when connected directly to the amplifier. 3a. Connect one of the Processors back into the signal path. Has the noise gone? Yes. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3b. 3b. Run new signal cables over a new route between the Head-unit and processor and between the Processor and the amplifier. Has the noise gone? Yes. Permanently route the cables on the new quiet path. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3c. 3c. Isolate the processor from the car's chassis except for a single grounding point. Connect the processor ground to the same grounding point as the head unit. Has the noise gone? Yes. Provide isolation between the Processor and the car's chassis and permanently route the cables on the known quiet path. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3d. 3d. Since new cables and re-grounding does not help, it is time to relocate the processor very near the amplifier. Connect the output of the processor to the amplifier with the shortest possible RCA cables. Has the noise gone? Yes. Reinstall the Processor one step at a time. Check for noise after each step in the reinstallation. Be careful when routing the signal cables. Remember that the car's chassis is a conductor. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3e. 3e. Power the processor with an isolated power supply. Do not let the processor touch the chassis of the car. Has the noise gone? Yes. The processor’s power supply in not sufficiently isolated from its audio circuitry. Either replace it or consider the permanent installation of an isolated power supply (1:1 DC/DC converter). This type of device provides a permanent power source that is well isolated from the car's chassis. Go to 3a for the next processor. If there are no more processors, the problem is solved. No. Go to 3f. 3f. Physically separate the processor and the isolated power supply from the rest of the system by many metres. Use long signal cables. Has the noise gone? Yes. Something is seriously wrong with either the processor or your install/test procedures. Please repeat this level from the beginning. No. Change Processor -- this one has design problems. Go back to 3a for the new processor. Step 4. Check the Vehicle The suspect car's charging and electrical systems can be checked by using the previously installed sound system in a "known quiet" car. 4a. Connect jumper cables between the batteries of the two vehicles and start the engine of the suspect car. Turn on the headlights on the suspect car and listen to the stereo on the "known quiet" car. Is there now noise in the quiet car’s system? Yes. Have a qualified auto electrician check out the car’s charging system. No. The suspect car's alternator and charging system is now proven to be quiet. The problem must lie in the car stereo installation -- not in the vehicle.

Well, JL's higher lines of amplifiers are custom designed by the guy responsible for the highly acclaimed PPI ProMos and Art series amplifiers, and have a lot of technology and useful features. Sundown's are fairly run of the mill but quality amplifiers from a buildhouse. Sundown's mono amps offer higher power output. JL's amps are higher priced. Sundown's CS is top notch....quick responses to emails and you can talk to the owner. JL has an extensive dealer network who can provide in-person hands-on support and troubleshooting in addition to email and phone support. If you have a problem with a JL amp under warranty, you can take the amp back and most dealers I've dealt with will slide you a new product over the counter that day rather than having to wait for shipping like you do with internet companies. It all comes down to your needs. In some respects, the JL is a better product. If you don't need those features, or those features aren't worth the additional cost to you, or you need more power output.....then the Sundown is a better product for you. You have to remember how many internet companies are a joke, or do sell products that are nothing special, and how many people on the forums are idiots. So telling someone that Brand X is highly rated on the internet isn't going to impress most people when they are selling products that are highly respected within the entire consumer electronics industry.

Decent amps don't have any headroom. An amplifier with headroom is indicative of an amplifier with a weak and poorly engineered power supply, unless it has a special gimmick in it like the RF T15KW. If the MBQ has the quality and features the owner needs, I'd take the higher power option every day of the week

The IMPRINT is good for someone who doesn't have the time or knowledge to properly tune a system. I personally would rather have something with more adjustability and functionality.

IMO save your $100, run one amp per coil and use a DMM to set the amps. I don't see the need to spend $100 on something you can do yourself for free......

You are really trying hard to avoid admitting Fatmat is an inferior product made with inferior material, aren't you? I would also recommend reconsidering the products offered by SDS. I would highly recommend Don's product offerings.

If you use them and like them, why are you asking us if they're crap?

Fatmat is asphalt. According to their website, they released a product called Mega Mat in 2009 which they claim is their first butyl product. There is a lot of confusion because FatMat used to claim it was butyl when it wasn't. After a lengthy debate on one of the forums, the owner agreed to remove the word "butyl" from the site. Last time I checked, he was still using it on his eBay auctions. He also stated that asphalt was a superior vibration damper in many ways, but chose not to elaborate further. I've yet to see anyone selling a butyl product say it was asphalt Company lying.....another great reason not to support FatMat

From Fatmat's website; That would indicate to me they are admitting the Fatmat deadener has nothing to do with butyl, as they are explicitly stating Mega Mat is their first butyl product.

what about these Would they be close i have a set in my car and they take a pounding. You will never find a tweeter that will handle an actual 300w.

I would start by checking the connections at the speaker to make sure the wire/etc isn't touching the door or basket. And sorry, but you're not going to get any sympathy from me. I've not had a radio in my car since May!

Fatmat is asphalt. According to their website, they released a product called Mega Mat in 2009 which they claim is their first butyl product.

I have a pair of Trio8's up in my closet.....haven't had a chance to play with them yet, but most people state they sound extremely similar with the SLS8's but with better high frequency extension. So which midbass to go with IMO depends on how high you need them to play. If you were able to cut them off around 250hz or so, the SLS8's would be cheaper. If you need them to extend higher, probably would be best to look at the Trio8's. The SB Acoustic 8's had also caught my eye, all of their drivers seem to measure pretty good. Vifa's new NE225W also looks intriguing, but I don't believe they've hit the streets yet For midrange, there's so many options it's hard to know where to even begin. It really depends on what range you want them to cover, IMO. Again the SB Acoustics 4" looks intriguing as their drivers all seem well engineered. Scanspeak just recently came out with the Discovery line which includes an affordably priced 4" midrange. Ofcourse the old standby's in smaller formats like the Vifa TG9. Zaph gave a glowing review of the Fountek FR88-EX. Have fun taming those reflections

They are good sounding affordable drivers that get very loud in a ported enclosure. Plan on using them ported, would not recommend them sealed. 1kw on a trio should be sufficient. I had ~500w on the 12" Dcon I played with, and that single 12" output way more bass than I'd ever need.

The amplifier is not the most important aspect. Select the amplifier last. Make a subwoofer selection first, then chose an amp to match the subwoofers you've selected. Purchasing an amplifier first will limit the subwoofers you can chose......this is not a smart way to go about things. You're doing things ass-backwards.

Load test the battery. If you can't do this yourself, most maintenance garages should be able to do it for you.

I would rather support Kinetik

As far as I know AGM's have acid (VRLA). Kinetics on the other hand have gel. And under heavy loads bubbles form. Gel is thick and it isn't good at "disposing" of the bubbles, further reducing the capacity of the battery. Now this shouldn't mean that gel batteries are bad. They are not ideal to use as started batteries. Common Specifications AGM Technology Kinetik High Current Power Cells

Ever heard of headroom?