Impious

I ordered a hat in the evening of 2/21 and it was on my head 2/27

Help you with what? Designing the enclosure? Calculating how much space you have available?

I'd rather shove toothpicks into my eyes than recommend anyone purchase anything from Skar........

What exactly is your question?

Why not contact Sundown and if they don't warranty it then have them recone it and use your head next time? Would be cheaper than buying another sub, and if you are happy with the performance no reason to ditch it altogether.

Most common routes for IB in a vehicle (that require minimal EQ) are high Q/High Fs like you have modeled there, and lower-mid Q/Low Fs....which is my preference, personally. Q in the .35-.4 range, Fs around 20hz. With the low Q you can shove several of them in your trunk without having to worry about Qtc raising to an unacceptably high level once you start putting things in your trunk that take up room or simply due to the ratio of Vas to Vb if you have several drivers with a large Vas. The other good thing about low Q/Low Fs is they generally make good small sealed enclosure subwoofers....which works well with the shallow depth theme for those who don't want to run IB, another great sales feature

Some gross generalizations here but IMO there isn't a use for a 6.5" pro audio driver in car audio except, for example, as a midrange in a high efficiency 3-way such as with horns. For 8" they generally have a little more snap to them in the upper midbass with the trade-off being significantly reduced low frequency extension/output. They also generally play a little higher than a normal home/car audio 8" driver since in pro audio an 8" is really more of a midrange...so the additional high frequency extension may be needed/desired. Well designed PA drivers still offer low distortion performance, so that could be a consideration. If you are talking about the guys who run a shit ton of PA speakers with bullet tweeters, then it's simply because they are 'tards.

Exactly. Hang them under the rear deck & it'll take up virtually no trunk space.

Seems very similar in concept to Mowry's Steallus....let the coil ride in the magnetic field of the magnets themselves with no "gap", though I don't know if he implemented the "active" breaking concept. What happens as the coil moves....is it going to "pull" the flux with it since there's no gap? Either way, great idea. I had mentioned before that shallow mount higher excursion, linear BL designs are a hot commodity right now....the SI BM's seem to sell out quickly and since they aren't in production sell used for more than they went for new. All I ask is you keep parameters in-line with something that performs well IB in a vehicle, and that you hopefully make a 15" driver Any chance the 10" would play enough to function as a midbass? Or an 8" implementation?

First week tracking my gas mileage......16.8mpg, mostly highway Need a more fuel efficient vehicle, bad. Switching to something that gets mid 20's would save me $1500/yr in gas.

Again, depends on budget

This. People who use that term don't understand it.

This should get you started: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/144399-rta-walkthrough-usage-thread-video.html

Someone had offered $10,000 to anyone who could prove otherwise

Can't pick out speakers without details for goals, installation locations and limitations, budget, etc. Also need to know what you have for processing or what you may need to purchase. If you are going the active route I would highly suggest raw drivers, and probably cheap but good ones to start out with. Active usually involves not just the crossovers but all of the tuning that goes along with it....equalization, time alignment, etc. Can you set all of that by ear? Usually not, atleast not well. If you're willing to spend a small bit of money you can get a mic and preamp for reasonable prices (less than $100) and free computer software to create your own RTA/FFT setup. The downside is there's also a learning curve to not just how to use the measurement equipment but how to make the most of the measurements and understand and utilize what they are telling you. It's a steep learning curve....not that it's hard to understand but it can be information overload. Need to run out the door now but can give you a couple links later tonight.

Not to burst your bubble but the description of class "ad" on RF's website sounds to me like it's a class D amplifier with a variable switching frequency (frequency decreases when output increases)......still class D though. Also you wouldn't want to use an actual class A amplifier....efficiency is terrible at less than 25% I presume you were meaning class A/B

Yes you can use your Hertz active later down the road.....the downside to this approach is that they are much more expensive than well performing DIY options, and you are paying for a passive crossover you won't be using. On the other hand, a well installed passive setup will sound better than a poorly tuned active setup, so it depends a lot on the skills of the installer/tuner. How much experience do you have with front stages, installing, setting up and tuning them?

Yep. There's only like 3 actual battery manufacturers. Keep in mind batteries can be OEM'd by the same company to different specifications based on the client.

Daily and demos. not in for numbers, just loud to the ear. Stop worrying about impedance "rise". The term as it's typically used is simply the impedance curve of the driver.....which you can't do anything about. If this is for daily, why 5kw at all? If you are really worried about "rise", you'd consider the fact that power compression is going to be very high at that level.

No reason to ditch them. As Tirefryr mentioned I don't see either of the other two choices being any real improvement, other than the convenience of having 1 amp as opposed to two.

Pretty simple. Set the gain for one of the bridged pair of channels by ear to where you want it set. Disconnect subs. Measure the voltage of that pair of channels with a DMM using a test tone. Continue playing the test tone and adjust the gain of the 2nd bridged pair of channels until the voltage matches your prior voltage measurement of the first pair that you set by ear. Volume level doesn't matter, just don't change it between measurements. Small deviations don't matter, you just don't want gross differences to obtain full performance from both subs. Why are you using a 4-channel for subs? Nothing intrinsically wrong with it, just not the usual choice.

Don't use it and buy something new.

Honestly depending on type of eDead you have it is probably crap anyways. I can't think of a single version they made off hand that was actually any good. So even if you get it to adhere to a surface of your vehicle, that does not mean it is going to perform well. Do you know what type/version of eDead you have?

Is this for competition or strictly for street beating?

Bridge it to the midbass and get a 2nd affordable amp for the WB's