Impious

By the same token since music is transient and dynamic and average power with music is significantly lower, breaking in a driver shouldn't be a concern either, correct? You can't play both sides. If break in is recommended because of the innate fear of insufficient coil cooling due to restricted excursion, the same would necessarily apply to ported enclosures as conditions are exactly the same. As you said, Murphy's Law. Better safe than sorry, correct? And since CMS is the only fundamental parameter to change due to break in, the relevant parameters change proportionally to each other and the net affect on overall system response is negligible and well below the audible threshold. And almost everyone I know of who routinely tests drivers breaks them in prior to testing, although most of them do so (including Vance Dickason according to his statements in the LSDC) simply to verify that the driver is fully and correctly functioning and not so much for the parameter change. Regardless, I don't think anyone is arguing that parameter change due to break in doesn't occur. It certainly does. The question is whether or not a specific "break in" period needs to be performed on a driver prior to use. The answer is absolutely not. And in all but the most extreme cases the net change in system response is unaffected by the shift in parameters due to break in since the ratio of the parameters stays relatively constant pre- and post-break in. About the only situation I can think of where break in would be a necessity is SPL competitors who need a specific change in T/S parameters, as the difference could potentially be measurable on a microphone and a few tenths can be the difference between 1st place and 2nd.

Some amps can produce full output with as little as .2V input, so if he was playing a tone entirely possible he was able to get full output from the amp with the gain jacked to max. Others go as low as .5V range, so again it would be fairly substantial output from the sub with the gain all the way up.

Was the DMM set to DC Volts instead of AC Volts when you measured the outputs? That or the HU is not functioning properly. Are you sure there weren't any settings in the HU that were adjusted in a manor that would negatively affect your measurement?

Ampacity is independent of wire length. It's based on the cross-sectional area of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation. Wire gauge charts recommend larger gauge wire as the run gets longer due to voltage drop, not ampacity limits. Also ampacity decreases based on environmental conditions (i.e. areas with restricted airflow or multiple runs of wire grouped together) as the ability to dissipate heat decreases or heat buildup is increased. Most charts assume maximum heat dissipation conditions when rating ampacity. I knew there was voltage drop, but thought the issue was heat, even if the insulation was "super", still thought there would be some limit to the metal itself. No, the issue is voltage drop. Typically most charts used in automotive applications reference minimum wire gauge for a given length and current in relation to a maximum acceptable voltage drop of .5V, not a current or thermal limit. The limit of the metal itself is referred to as the fusing current. Generally speaking the insulation will begin to be compromised long before the melting point of the metal wire itself is reached.

So I presume you also do not advocate ported enclosures since excursion is minimized at tuning where impedance is also at it's minimum, thereby increasing the risk of thermal failure? Also, a 10% change in T/S parameters is well within the manufacturing tolerances. Pull any two drivers off an assembly line and the parameters can vary by as much as (or more than) 10%.

Ampacity is independent of wire length. It's based on the cross-sectional area of the wire and the thermal capacity of the insulation. Wire gauge charts recommend larger gauge wire as the run gets longer due to voltage drop, not ampacity limits. Also ampacity decreases based on environmental conditions (i.e. areas with restricted airflow or multiple runs of wire grouped together) as the ability to dissipate heat decreases or heat buildup is increased. Most charts assume maximum heat dissipation conditions when rating ampacity.

The DIYMA Klippel? ID hasn't had that for a while. But there are also alternatives like Red Rock Acoustics.....though it's presumably very expensive & I would doubt you would really see much (read: any) return on that investment. My guess would be that Erin (bikinpunk.....the current possessor of the DIYMA Klippel) would test it for you if you sent him one. Issue there is a novice behind the controls potentially skewing results. Nothing against Erin, he's energetic about the Klippel, improving himself and the results on a daily basis and seems to really be the first one since npdang to actually care about benefiting the community with it again. But still a novice.

That amp would fine for powering speakers. A little lower power than I prefer, but if you're not looking to be heard down the block it would do just fine.

I can not even express to you how terrible my farts smell today. No idea why, didn't eat anything funky yesterday or today. I've even made the dogs get up & leave the room once or twice.

The best headunit is the one that fits your needs within your budget.

Might not be a terrible idea to break into active with the Anarchy and some tweeters, and if it doesn't entirely fit your needs work your way up from there as your budget and skill level allow.

it stops lower frequency's from getting to you sub...so if you set it to 30htz it wont play below 30htz To add to what Jmac said.....a SSF is nothing more than a highpass crossover with a very low crossover frequency. It abides by all of the standard rules for crossovers. Which means it doesn't "stop" anything. It simply attenuates frequencies at an increasing rate (the slope) below a certain frequency determined by the crossover frequency (which is the -3db or -6db point of the signal depending on the type of crossover/SSF). If the SSF is set to 30hz, the driver will still play frequencies below 30hz but they will be attenuated in level. Where the SSF needs set really has more to do with the driver, enclosure, music selections and power than it does the arbitrary 3-5hz below tuning figure typically given as an answer. Though I understand why some companies suggest that.....to keep their return rate lower due to unknowledgeable customers setting the SSF too low instead of more conservatively and blowing things up constantly. Plug your driver, enclosure and power into any program which will graph cone excursion and look at excursion of the driver. WinISD would even allow you to graph the response and excursion with a given filter applied.....that will tell you a lot about what's going on.

I wouldn't recommend running 3-way as your first attempt at active. It's possibly a recipe for disaster. Get oriented with active with a 2-way system before you attempt diving it a 3-way. I don't think running full ranges instead of a tweeter would be a great idea for you or your system. Again, much more difficult to setup and tune due to their sensitivity to aiming and generally less forgiving FR, and quite honestly I think you would probably end up blowing them. It just makes things unnecessarily more difficult when the Anarchy's are fully capable of running in a standard 2-way system with a tweeter. If your headunit allows for active processing, just use that and forget about using the xovers in the amps. Start out with a standard 2-way system with the Anarchy's and a set of tweeters. Overall this will more simple and easier to setup on your first try. Just keep in mind that although the Anarchy is a high excursion 6.5" driver........it's still only a 6.5" driver. It will still be possible (easy, in fact, especially if you are trying to "keep up" with a pair of Zcons going balls to the wall) to push the driver to and/or past it's limits. It may not be the magic fix to your problem. From how you describe your installation it would appear your problem is quite possibly due to a lack of excursion capabilities of your current driver. The Anarchy will improve this, but maybe not to the level of your needs. I think we need to take a step back and define exactly what your needs and goals are along with what your knowledge, skills and budget will allow.

Exactly what I was going to say. Changing color and doing it right would be much more expensive. Well lets keep this in perspective, I am not restoring a classic car. lol I should be able to do either one and stay within my budget. Like I said I just want a really nice paint job not THE best EVER. lol You'd still have to do door jams/etc. It's not a whole lot more materials but it's more prep and prep time, which is more labor cost. I doubt it would be a $15K job like his friend but still, more money is more money. I would do satin white simply to save the added expense of a complete color. But then again, I'm a cheapass and wouldn't pay to repaint any of my vehicles.

Exactly what I was going to say. Changing color and doing it right would be much more expensive.

Why do you have a component set running at 120 lpf? How do you know this? What processor do you have? I presumed he just typed LPF instead of HPF. For true midbass frequencies, having the speakers located in front of you doesn't really matter. But you would still want them as wide as possible.....under or directly behind the seats are both generally poor options.I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get performance under 120hz with them unless you are simply pushing them significantly past their output limitations. Are you playing them at an excessively loud level when they appear to start bottoming out? Completely disagree Impious. Midbass freqs should definitely be played by front stage drivers. Your comment on having midbass drivers as wide as possible is contradictory to your previous statement Midbass drivers are best mounted in the doors with proper deadening. Disagree if you wish, but you would be wrong. And the statements are not the least bit contradictory. If you think they are, then you are not reading them properly. We localize midbass in the lateral plane only (i.e. left to right). We don't localize it on a vertical plane (high and low), and we don't localize it "front to back". Midbass is localized by way of what's known as Interaural Time Difference (ITD). That is, the brain localizes midbass laterally due a difference in the time arrival of the sound wave between the left ear and right ear. ITD dominates our localization ques in the frequency bandwidth where the wavelengths of the soundwave are longer than the distance between our two ears. Our ears have no hearing mechanism by which to differentiate "front" from "rear" in the midbass frequencies. The wavelengths are too large compared to our hearing mechanisms to locate them vertically or "front to back". Generally the more ITD you can generate, the wider the potential imaging. From this very basic knowledge, a couple things can be extracted. First, any midbass location that results in identical ITD will be indistinguishable to the ear....above you, below you, in front of you, behind you, it doesn't matter......as long as the ITD stays the same, your ears and your brain won't know the difference. Second thing we should notice is that the WORST location for a midbass is at a location that results in an ITD of or close to zero; that would be DIRECTLY in front of you, DIRECTLY behind you, or directly above or below you. Since "imaging" in the lateral plane is a function of ITD, the "best" midbass location is a location that results in optimal ITD. Which is why I previously stated that you want the speakers located as wide as possible, to allow for proper ITD. So yes, you can mount midbass drivers behind you....your brain doesn't know the difference. Mount the drivers as wide as possible to maximize ITD. Which means, for example, if the ITD from some given location on the front doors and some given location on the rear doors are identical, you could mount the speakers in either location and you wouldn't be able to tell a difference. Now, a few caveats to this: First, hearing rattling/buzzing/etc as a result of the midbass speakers exciting panel resonances (door panels, etc) or other noises will ruin the illusion. Second, the speakers must only be operated within the bandwidth where ITD is the mode of localization. If you operate the driver outside of this bandwidth (this includes driver distortion, etc), then other factors will begin to contribute to our localization of the sound. Proper time alignment of the midbass drivers will need to be maintained with the other drivers in the system as well as between the midbass drivers themselves. Lastly (I think), this does not take into consideration the effects of other factors such as reflections, frequency response anomalies, etc as those will be a case-by-case basis. All that said....claiming midbass in the front doors is the "best" location is extremely generalized and I wouldn't necessarily agree.

First post of the new year? I got 12:00am exactly, bitches! Well, EST. I guess it is somewhat relative to where you live.

That Cee Lo fucker or what his name is just completely butchered Lennon's Imagine. What a disgrace.

First thing we would need to know is your space limitations. Can't recommend alternatives if we don't know what will fit and what will not.

i think its just the effect that people are impressed with... same as doing a burn out.. do people enjoy buying new tires and smelling the stench of burning rubber?? no.. but it looks cool. and in some ways of thought it shows performance value. Yes but burnouts can provide a valuable performance benefit (drag racing, for example). Flex.....does not.

It actually does appear to be the camera. If you notice in the video the sub's movement is all distorted; it looks like the cone "wobbles". Same thing appears to be happening to the items that are vibrating. IIRC the issue is that the camera's frame rate isn't high enough to keep up with the quick movement occuring, so the movement isn't fluid but distorted instead. This appears to be happening to the images of the panel (etc) vibrations and causes them to "wobble" in the video instead of being a fluid movement, which is overemphasizing the amount of vibration. An illusion created by to the insufficient frame rate.

Having no public phone allows them to spend more time building and designing subs which gets orders out quicker, and keeps costs down because they don't have to pay someone to sit there & answer the phone all day. The downside is yes, it takes a little longer to get ahold of them.

Though the Exodus are generally a good option, it would require going active.

For true midbass frequencies, having the speakers located in front of you doesn't really matter. But you would still want them as wide as possible.....under or directly behind the seats are both generally poor options. I don't see why you shouldn't be able to get performance under 120hz with them unless you are simply pushing them significantly past their output limitations. Are you playing them at an excessively loud level when they appear to start bottoming out?