johnecon2001

I really doubt you know what's going to be better for the JL motor than JL does. After all, who spent millions on R&D? You or JL? Just saying, you're pretty much ruining resale value on it as well. It's an SQ subwoofer, good at sounding good. It's not some fart machine that you cobble together using bastard parts to hit 150+dB where it doesn't matter if it sounds good or not. I never said that I was trying to hit 150+dB. I just wanted to have it rebuilt for my own personal uses not to compete or anything of the sort. I wasn't implying that you were, I was using custom recones as an example. Thanks for being so uptight about it though. Don't ask for advice if you're not going to follow any of it.

got any for 2/0? lol 124108-001 - 124108-001

Could check the user manual as well, which if you bought it new.. it should come with.

Sarcasm? He does work for Fi lol

Meh, just use a quick disconnect. They're made in all kinds of crazy sizes. Here's a link for an 8awg pair QUICKCAR RACING PRODUCTS 57-704 BATTERY QUICK DISCONNECT 8 AWG - SPECIAL PRICE!

Where are those notes now? Doesn't look like you retained much info.

It'll probably produce noise, yes.

XS Power D2700 would be my choice.

Someone just posted that right before you..

The last time the offered the X, it was ment as a Home Theatre sub.. Not that you can't use any woofer for any application though.

At what?

You can't see clipping with a DMM. winnerrrrrrrrrrrrrr I'll take a signed coffee mug.

Basically, the thought process goes somewhat like this. You have three amps, you add up the amperage total of those amps and choose the appropriate cable to fit the current needs. Once there, you go with fusing per cable to fit your cabling needs.

Once again folks.. The fuse on the wire isn't to protect the equipment, its there to protect the wire. Everytime you drop the wire size off of the main run you should re-fuse the wire with an appropriate fuse. If you have a run of 1/0awg running from the battery to a fused distro block, and from there it splits to one 4awg and one 8awg. Your main line is fused with a 200-300a fuse because that's what that 1/0awg is capable of carrying. If you don't fuse the smaller wires to what they are capable of carrying (70-80a for 8awg, 100-150a for 4awg) and you short the power cable, you're going to be sending 300a of current down those tiny wires. That's going to result in melting wire, and most certainly, fire.

Looks like you lost some quality in the transfer from camera to editing program. Your frame rate seems a little low too. We'll have to eff with it sometime to get you to optimal quality.

Ahhh the manual.. Handy things to check when you have a question.

Sounds like either a loose ground or a pinched RCA.

Nice pic! That's the way I would do things. Everytime you drop the wire gauge, you should re-fuse to that new awg.

Depends on too many factors. Read the links in my signature please.

No, you get real. You've had your warnings, and now you're banned for 3-days.

Actually, it was probably thousands on R&D, but still.

I really doubt you know what's going to be better for the JL motor than JL does. After all, who spent millions on R&D? You or JL? Just saying, you're pretty much ruining resale value on it as well. It's an SQ subwoofer, good at sounding good. It's not some fart machine that you cobble together using bastard parts to hit 150+dB where it doesn't matter if it sounds good or not.

100-150A would be fine for 4awg.

If that's true then that's just plain retarded. It says Satalite ready, not Sirius ready. I would think everything remotely new would be able to have either or both. You do realize its the same programming.. right?