johnecon2001

What last guy?

LOL @ jamming Glocks. I've yet to have a misfire or jam with mine.

Is it a home theatre sub?

With one difference.. when you parallel them it does not drop the voltage.

I would stay away from anything Panasonic (the DVD-R menu's are really hard to navigate). Phillips makes some really nice stuff that's pretty easy to use, but it is more pricey. For a cheaper alternative, look into something from Sylvania. Another easy to use brand with a cheaper price tag. A few of them just have the DVD recorder, but some of them have an internal Hard Drive as well.

how much did you end up paying Justin? That looks like I might have to sell mah Glock and get that.

What box? Can you post some specs?

depends on what amperage output your alt does. if you put lets say for example a 100amp fuse in line when you have a stock 130amp alt, when the alt starts producing max voltage the fuse will pop. but if you have lets say a 100amp fuse and an 80amp stock alt. then your good to go. check what your stock alt is rated to do, than just go a bit above it. That's not entirely accurate. If you have a 130a alt you should be using at least 4awg. When you run 4awg, you should fuse it to 150a. Of course, with the big three, the maximum wire siz you can afford should be used (most people use 1/0awg). You can fuse 1/0awg up to 350a.

Just post the pics here, or add a direct link.

I could think of a lot better subs than that, where I would spend $335.

Pics of box, sounds really funky. What was wrong with a standard box with them both pointing the same way?

How about a little more backround information. Sounds like its stolen.

no its not.....look at the guts idont see 2 in one and jacob stated that its its own design not 2 in one if that was the case it wouold only be 2 ohm stable.......do some research before making statements like that... First off, watch your mouth here. This is a good community and blatantly attacking someone here is frowned upon. Second off, Essentially you're still wrong. You can take the guts from two 1500D's and combine them into one and call it a 3000D, count the internal caps and other components. It's a different board sure, but the internal workings are close to what two 1500D's have. It can be whatever ohm load it needs to be with some basic upgrades. There are tons of big amps that are just two smaller amps strapped inside that will go below 2 ohms. You do some research before you get on my shit list.

1 3000D is essentially 2 1500D's in one chassis. FYI.

What's your impedence after box rise? And what type of electrical have you done? I'd assume you've done a bit of upgrading if you ran the goliath.

I'm thankful for my balls. And the fact that they belong to no woman yet. (2007 has been a rough year)

I doubt very that its the exact same board as the 1500D.

Dual .7 ohm coils

While I haven't spent any time looking for info on their amps, I did see pictures of the 3250.1d It looks decently full of components inside, no word on if it does rated power+ or - . RD as a whole get a mixed response from me. Their owner is a bit childish. And that reflects badly upon a company that may have great products. You can read more about RD here.

Could be lots of things, I would guess a shorted trace on the power supply though.

No, you cannot. head unit amplifiers are not engineered to be bridged.

Honestly though, with the 3000D coming close to putting out 8kw all by itself under the right circumstances.. why does he need to build a bigger amp??

Does the sound go away if you unplug the RCAs from the sub amp? If it does.. trace the source backwards.

Good to see the box bolted down properly!

I bet he smells his own farts now too.