johnecon2001

Self help - http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/product...sure_tools.html

With the new 100.4D, you'll have everything you need. Run the front output from the HU to the D, and run the rear to the old bridged 100.4. Highpass the old 100.4, and put a lowpass on it at around 400hz. The rest I can't tell you now because I forgot what front speakers you were getting.

I wouldn't worry about choking it. How do you think the quadruple baffled subwoofer guys get away with it lol. As far as power, are you running active up front yet? You could bridge the 100.4 you have now for the E8's, then pick up a 100.4D for running your front stage active.

You got a tape measure?

ah HAH. Cool that you finally figured it out.

That picture shows us nothing since you took it at an angle.

That's just your opinion dude. My opinion is alot of people bash the W7s and make claims that their cheaper subs are superior and aren't. Its not an opinion. More like a proven fact.

All of your topics have been merged (they all contain the same basic question).

More importantly, what does your electrical consist of to run this beast of an amp?

Home theater audio usually plays far below 30hz for movies..

Guess mine, guess mine!

Short of running your front speakers active in order to send a bit more power to your mids.. have you deadened and prepped your doors yet? A lot of sound can be lost in a leaky door. Your Bose stuff probably had specially made speaker boxes and baffles for each driver correct? You can't put new drivers in those, because they're not made for those drivers. And you can't just pop them in the door because a door is metal.. and resonates. This should help fill the gap between your front stage and your subwoofer frequency wise. Another thing you should look into doing is shrinking your box. A smaller sealed box will catch some of the upper low end frequencies a little better than a larger one will. You can also stuff the current box with Polyfill to see if it helps or not.

For you, I'd get the BL.

DIY http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/product...sure_tools.html

There are a couple of cheaper options that you could do before upgrading your alternator. The Big 3 shouldn't cost more than $50 in parts. It will provide better conductivity from alternator to battery to chassis. A second thing you could do is get a larger battery for under your hood. Something like a Kinetic, or a PowerMaster would do wonders for you. Lastly is to add a battery in the back, next to your amp. If all this doesn't help at all, it's time to get a High Output alternator.

Did you have a specific model in mind?

Read this topic please http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7153 It will answer all your questions about what the options do for you.

Hay alan! You should do a build log here someday

There is a lot of information you left out in your post to help you make any sort of informed decision, but based upon your quest for a louder setup, why don't you just port one BL15. No need to put two on that amp.

Depending on how sticky or slide resistant you make it... StayPut, or Snake Skin

Hmph, I thought you were older.. wait. that's not a compliment oh hell, go riding on the Hog to your favorite bar and have a few then take a cab home! HBD

I think you should have run 1/0 awg.. and no one will be able to tell you what you will hit on a meter.

Scott at Fi can certainly build you something as well

Ground in the dash faulty? Pinched RCA's?

I do believe we forgot the RF 360.2. I've never used it, but by looking at the specs.. it's a good beginner processor