mrray13

i got a new gun!! hehe that is all... for now. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

that's looking real good! don't skimp on the trunk though. it'll cheapen the rest of the work. and as you put it up, you've followed through on the rest of the install without cutting corners, don't cut that one. with the quality of work you've presented so far, you'll only be letting yourself down if you don't finish the trunk as nice as the rest of the install. one other thing, using fleece might be a bit of a pain, but it's well worth it. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

nothing wrong with black golds!! not sure of all the differences between the tc9 anc tc2000.. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

lmao... sorry bigpete. i apologize, hehe. thanks for not taking offense bro!! it wasn't intended for you. i understand about the wiring. it's understandable. not being seen= can get away with a bit more. as to the lean, you have the sub tilted, Fi is at an angle, hence, ghetto lean, lol. not a big deal, just a personal preference. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

you get nothing, and like it!!! muhahahaha looks good bro! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i'm with acid... stronger midbass, and a good sealed enclosure, on the smaller side of things. as to your choices, i have only experience with the tc9 based rl-p and love it. of course the rl-i8 i own is pretty badass as well. both work great in sealed or ported applications, and the rl-p (tc9) can handle the 1100 or so watts fairly easily, though it's not needed. the Q has earned it's marks though, and would be well worth the look. also, the mag and the bm should be in the running from SI. have you spied the homespun SSA woofer? it's projected to be in around $250 and power handling right in your range. but i believe impedance might be an issue. holler at denim for more info. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

the transformation has happened here as well. i like the transformation, tis a good thing! tom, let us know your thoughts on the tl when you finally get a chance to play with it. new toy pictures tonight!! them toys go boom like so! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

If you're still in and sticking with it after two months you shouldn't have a problem. I'll be sending motivation every once in a while to you Kent ... at your g-mail account ... it'll get you to the gym. look forward to it!! any hints, suggestions or products are more then appreciated!! the main goals are increased cardio, slimmer waist and of course a more cut look. weight loss isn't that big of a deal as my frame more then supports my 235pds. i just need to put the weight in the right places, lol. aaron and steve, i'll be leaning heavy on you two. i really appreciate the help. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

5ft^3 and two 6" aeros should be plenty. probably not optimum, but in car, more then adequate. and i'll wager that 18 will hold that 2500d @ 2ohm easily. like denim mentioned above, my rl-p 12 has more then held it's own on one @ 4 ohm daily. also, it saw the full brunt @ 1 ohm on more then one occasion as well. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it is a nice combo...but.. the typing made my eyes hurt. and the install can be made a bit cleaner, as far as the wiring to the amp goes. but overall, not bad. one last gripe, the "ghetto lean" with the sub is played out. but still looks far better then another build log in this section, lol...... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

looking good! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

both HPF and LPF can be set at through, 50, 80, and 125hz. lpf is sub only. still haven't played with the the TA yet. but i'll goof with it later. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

tom, have you played with the rl-i tl yet? and what did you think? i can't friggin remember. i'm off today. going to be dropping a few hundred on a year's membership at the gym. time to get this fat ass in shape. again. i drop a few, gain a few, drop a few, gain a few. i'm sick of it. bt, i love No-Xplode. while i don't get the uber boundless energy that people write about, i do feel a difference. and the fruit punch tastes good too. can't wait to see what it does with actual weight training. also, going to add after workout supplements. giving myself one year or bust, lol. 3-5 times a week in the gym. that's the plan. otherwise... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Curious as to the origin of that math sense it really makes no sense because it totally fails to account for load and thus current which are vital to any electrical power calculation. According to this, 30V on the output at 14V on the input is going to be the same output wattage regardless of load on the output. i can't reply to that. i don't know the origin, it's what i have read, and what i have been informed to be fairly accurate. but what you said makes perfect sense. without factoring the shown impedence, one is not getting an accurate representation of amplifier power. suppose it would be accurate enough when using a regulated power supply like the jl slash amps. but as you mentioned, without factoring in the current draw/ impedence, one is just getting a general idea (and one not complete) as too power output. i'll ask this, and i could be way off base, but if one changed impedence, and nothing else, i wonder if output voltage would change. keep gain the same, volume the same, frequency played unchanged. sounds like something i will play with later today. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

nice list. i agree with the bosch router combo. i love mine! i will add this though, one can indeed get away with the lesser expensive tools if they will opt for the better bits/blades. bad/ dull blades/bits will shorten the life of any tool. if one skimps on tools, they should splurge on bits/blades. and if using a circular saw, a straight edge. keeping everything running smooth with little to no binding, will lead to extended tool life and service. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

that'll shake a foundation, lol wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i'm not for sure, but will play with it tomorrow some and let you know. i'm going to assume some range as my clarion dxz955mc has. of course it's set up for active and three way setups. i don't believe you'll touch anything eclipse for that money with those features. even sony, which in my opinion typically offers the most bang for the buck, can't really touch this years clarions price/feature mix. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

just for reference... h/u install at my shop, your radio, our parts (this is for this lincoln)= $105 your componets, our labor= $75 your amps, our wires, using 0 gauge= $375 prefab encloure= $120 custom enclosure=$200 with a custom box, your friend would have paid $780. labor guaranteed forever, as well the box. i threw prefab in there as that is what yours looks like. not too mention, memphis makes a quality prefab. in any case, your right. he would have paid more, but he would have gotten a custom job front to back. and i'd wager the numbers would be everybit as good, if not better. also, when we are presented a budget, we build around that, so those prices are not set in stone. lastly, thanks for considering my suggestion. as i stated earlier, they scream for upfiring subs, side loading ports. you build the box in a tshape. i'll get more pics up soon, not that you'll read this, but it'll be here nonetheless. like sean mentioned chris, it's not just about this build. it's about your attitude concerning constructive critism. you say you can handle it, but when you get it, you go on the defensive. then we fire back and a war is started. i hope you can understand this and grow from it. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

it's pretty much been covered, but i'll throw my two cents in. 3/4" is adequate in 99% of all enclosures. and if you brace, no double baffle will ever be needed, unless your one of the anal ones, lol. nothing wrong with the double baffle, if overbuilding is your idea of standard practise. but if going for tenths on a meter, a double baffle could hurt the score. only testing will verify this. titebond II or III is the bomb. only glue i will ever use. 1 5/8" wood (drywall) coarse thread screws go along way in maintaining box integrity, if big power and big pressures are expected. 1 1/2" 16gauge brads will work fine in most daily drivers. while wood glue is indeed the primary strength, if your chasing tenths, and are going to throw man size amounts of power at it, glue/ screws is a must. the biscuit way is uber strong as well, but a bit more time consuming, not to mention needing the biscuit tool to make the cuts. tablesaw is a box builder's best friend. as is a router/jasper jig combo. not to mention a router with a roundover bit for the realy nice professional finish. but a circular saw/straightedge with a good jig saw can be used to make any enclosure. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i'm also tired of dealing with punkass, knowitall teens, who spout out bullshit and then like to defend themselves with comments like" it's said a moderator would make posts like that" fuck that. i do what i'm supposed to do, and if you can't take it, blow me, grow up and try to act like you have a pair. i'm entitled to have an opinion as well as anyone, and i sure as hell ain't afraid of posting it. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

i hate today already. seriously, i hate dealing with stupid people first thing in the morning, and i hate trying to take care of something when i don't have the inventory to do so. and then people act as if it's my fault. if i could order the needed stuff, it would be here. and people think this place is a damn daycare center. "my babies momma is coming over to leave the kids while i do installs." whatever. damn people. when scott gets here, me thinks i'm leaving. i don't need money that fucking bad. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

pm 80inches..dude knows his bandpass. i think once you measure your car though, you'll be better able to plot your response. also, SS subs have never modeled well, lol. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

what? there is so much wrong in that post, i'm tempted to delete it. my father-in-law has been painting cars for damn near 30 years, i've done it for close to 6. and what you typed above is so full of garbage, wow, it would take me the rest of the day to type out a response to your crap. i will echo what has been stated by others. bodywork/ prep is the foundation. either one of those are junk, the best painter in the world won't cover it. if he has done boats, he should do well on car.if he's sweating it, tell him to go white. white covers things that will be highlighted by darker colors. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

yay...i made your ignore list for the third time. and i'm just speaking what the majority feels....nothing wrong with that. no flaming, no harshness, just the truth bro. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

nice idea. maybe we can get the other manufacturers to do something similiar........ i have to pee, will in just a moment. 'tis the pause that refreshes... and the pigs in the blanket, when you add a slice of cheese> french toast many, many times over! now, where's my teeshirt? i'll take a sticker for my tool box too...... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee