Julian

Order #3266 Order #3024 Order #2555

Personally was not a fan of my M3a...

I have the zcon 18 and a new recone ordered.. can't wait. you blew another one? How the hell? Have to recone it to a d1 lol

I have the zcon 18 and a new recone ordered.. can't wait.

'I see wat u did thuuur

You will not need titebond 3 since the main difference between 2 and 3 is that 3 is waterproof. Use coarse threaded drywall screws, like said above make sure you predrill ALL your holes.

You will need to remove the PCB completely and go from there. Any automotive powder coating/ etc place could do it easily since it's just aluminum. Then reinstall the PCB with new thermal paste and you're good to go.

Kicker suggest anything from 3-5 Ft^3 per sub.. So 12-20 cubes would be acceptable.. I would just try to fit within that... Larger enclosures will be much more efficient but risk mechanical failure if abused. On the other hand a smaller enclosure raises mechanical handling but sacrifices efficiency.

Man, I really would like to start my door pods...

found this. but not very readable however. Made in Italy! Le: 0.8 mH Re: 3.2 Ohm Fs: 55 Hz Qms: 4.22 Qts: 0.56 Vas: 4.45 Liter Bl: 5.32 Frequenzbereich: 50-2500 Hz Sd: 78.5 cm� Xmax: 16 mm Pmax: 100.0 W dBSpl: 90 dB Technische Merkmale: - CONE: Fibreglass with rubber suspension. - VOICE COIL: Pure copper wire on aluminium former (� 40 mm). - BASKET: PPO chassis injected with fibreglass, in order to low down undesired distortions. - DUST COVER: ABS, glued directly to the V/C former, with calibrated weight and dimensions in order to reachthe desired Mms. This midwoofer is the answer to the request of a performing 5� able to follow the lesson of the prized W600: great power handling, perfect match with a tweeter for a 2 way system of extreme quality, but not forgetting the first target of an AD component: the Sound Quality. This diameter, less considered than the 6.5�, has something to say , especially if installed in a closed box, or tuned, or in door mounting. Phase and impedance curves are measured after 20 hours burn-in at 50 W RMS, so are the T / S parameters.

Deadener will do nothing to combat the flex, you need to add rigidity to it.

I wouldn't call them SPL subs at all... IMO they are considered "High Output"... SPL is a one note wonder and that's it.

Funny thing is... I have a story about him being a pedophile... At one point he was staying at "King of Bass's" house and he was like trying to flirt with his 16 year old daughter...

Also you will be surprised how flexible it is too.

2/0 will be about the same size as "Car Audio" CCA wire... not to say it will conduct less. It will conduct even more since its pure copper.

Very true, that's how I saw people do it... So I guess that's how I'm used to seeing it done. I need to pickup some Rage gold, FUCK bondo. You can have great results with even the cheapest of fillers. I do like Rage Gold though. I have another metal-infused filler I like from 3M. Of course everything 3M makes is genius. I always have terrible results with regular bondo. I like rage gold a lot.

Very true, that's how I saw people do it... So I guess that's how I'm used to seeing it done. I need to pickup some Rage gold, FUCK bondo.

I really like that. Iwas thinking something similar. I'd like to do something similar but I'd like to cut down on the very dramatic curves on it... so annoying to sand

I read the whole thing. I'm going to go with the two BL's 12in ported box that I'm gunna have to get made. Speakers though, if I dont get them deaden and sealed when I get the install, is the bass going to distort the sound, you know what I mean!? I want some speakers that are going to be real loud so I don't just hear the damn bass. This is going to be in my trunk so is there something I can do to prevent all the rattle. Now I'm going to get a kinetic battery that I guess I can sit next to my subs so I don't kill my alternator,thats what my buddy told me to do. Amp wise I'm going to look into a 3000w amp, not sure what one though. And for my deck, probably some nice touch screen I can find online for a good price. A kenetik battery is an AGM battery... That means you have to use an AGM battery under your hood as well. For 3,000 watts, just 1 extra battery isn't going to cut it. You'll need 3 batteries and you'll see some voltage drop, or 2 batteries and a 180-200 amp HO alt and you'll see very little voltage drop. If I were you, I'd just get a single BL 15 off of a 1200-1500w amp. You'll be saving money all around then and will still be loud. No... No you actually don't have to use an AGM battery in the front.

I really like that. Iwas thinking something similar.

Don't get me started on teams. . . . haha... but yeah... so that's what happened evidently

A guy who was on the team

Would it really? I am thinking along the lines of a 12 and a new Icon would be my first thought. However the Icon I have is in pristine condition and I have no reason to want or need to replace it.My son bought the Icon I have here and get a hell of a deal. I can'[t remember who he bought it from but I know there is a Youtube vid of the original owners car that had 3 tens in it. He took very good care of his equipment. I would not doubt it, Mark and Aaron have doe a lot of changes since the first gen Icon, I would not upgrade unless you had to.