jcarter1885

Yes that is the only way it will turn on, it still needs power and ground wires as well. No amp will turn on without those three wires hooked up regardless on how you plan on using them.

Yes you can get the AA Havocs in D1 or D2.

3 year old thread dude

Get in touch with an AA Dealer to find the price on the Havoc, what are you goals and intentions with this system?

Wow this is a total fail, man please edit these post and type them using real sentences and what not. Look at that and tell me how it looks to you when reading. It makes nobody even want to read it, I wouldnt mind helping you but I just cant look at a paragraph of just straight run on sentences. Thanks

Here go a few in your budget and a couple above your budget: http://www.woofersetc.com/p6840/DSC2150-MB-Quart-2-Ch-600-Watt-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p5760/300-2v2--JL-Audio-300-Watt-2Channel-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p4737/PDX2150--Alpine-2-Ch-300-Watt-Digital-Power-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p6027/ZRS1502--Cadence-600-Watt-2-Ch-Competition-Amplifier.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p9256/SAX1252--Sundown-Audio-125W-2Channel-Amplifier.htm

Are you selling it or just using it as a daily beater? Good luck with build log, should be fun to see what your gonna do with the civic.

no problem man

Yeah just screw it down, if you want some protection against the vibrations then use another piece of mdf or padded foam material to put under the amp's mounting feet.

and welcome

Congrats on score buddy

A couple decades ago, yes. With today's technology, no.

You dont have to tell me the design just curious as to what you were planning on doing, the only thing about having your batteries in the bed is that you will have to run some more wire back into the cab to get the wire to your amps. So if your willing to do that to keep your plans then go ahead. But maybe others will chime in with alternatives.

Not even close, i have about.. 4 inches of height under the seat. I was thinking about the bed, then running wires under the truck, coming up into the cab.. but, idk. I dont see why that wouldnt work if you have everything planned already, if its possible then go that route. Are you doing a blowthrough?

Can they fit under the sits laying on there sides?

The main reason I always mounted my sub amps to the enclosure is the lack of space with dealing with 3 amps in a car, so if space is limited then go ahead or you will have to change your plans. Compromise

Probably a poorly made amplifier with cheap parts. Every amp that i have own in my 10 plus systems had the amp on the box and never had a problem doing it that way for more than 5 years now. If you want to take extra precaution then put another piece of mdf between amp and box or put rubber padding under the mounting feet. **Everything in the car will be vibrating especially with the subs and amount of power your planning on running, but I understand were your coming from. Just my logic.

This is just something to think about, there is no problem with underpowering a subwoofer at all. Even with an extra 400 watts it really wont be louder to ear, if you try to get a more powerful amp for the SSD. Either choice will fit your goals.

Looking good, keep up the progress.

c'mon man you know he was pouring some out for the homies

So no more boom in the G6?

Thats a killer enclosure

The amp is 1 ohm stable so get a D2 ohm sub and wire it like this:

x2 and get a good set of components for the front doors. Then if you ever want to upgrade the rear doors, you still have speakers till you save up enough money for another component set.

The only way to tell if the stock alternator will do is for you to install and start playing your music and see if it holds up. If you dont have the money for an alternator and you want to buy batteries first then go for it but a alternator will be best first electrical upgrade I would do if cash was right. Make sure you do the Big 3 as well. Here's a start: