jcarter1885

If you ran the 3000D with no problems at 0.5ohms then you will be fine with 3500D just make sure you have to electrical to keep the voltage up. How many db's you want to hit will all be install dependent, with 2-12" Nightshades and 3500 you could get or come close or surpass it but it all depends. Good luck and hope this helps.

That was what I was thinking, maybe it was just how the picture was taken. Well good luck in reaching your goals, im watching this one . What are you planning on doing to it next?

x2, how much room is between the port and the back wall.

If it is in your budget and has the features you want then get it, no one can tell you how to spend your money since you will be using it everyday and nobody else on here. Make sure it falls inline with the things you like need and want, if still unsure then go to stores in your area that sell clarion and see what how much you like the headunit in person.

I wouldnt compare SSD's to CVR's (not even a fair cmparison), if anything they could compare to the CVX's but I dont even think you should compare Fi subs to Kickers in the first place. Just my .02 Try to find out what fits your goals and budget in your system, this will be better than just naming subs and comparing them to other subs (this will get you nowhere) .

How would two Lethal Injections 12's compare to two SA-12's in terms of output ability and sound quality. Both sealed and each sub running off 500-600 watts? No one can tell you since it is all install dependent, the only way to tell is both both pairs and test them then share with us your review.

If that is the case then read the reviews at places like sonicelectronix.com/onlinecarstereo.com or crutchfield.com about the different headunits and see what owners have said about the ipod controllers.

Actually the point of the thread was for me to decide if I should get the 3KWD If it fits your budget then buy it. x2, which amplifier should I get topics are getting old (by now people should know whats a good brand and whats not). Also type the name of the amp in the google search bar and read other reviews on the internet about them as well (plenty of reviews on amps out there). If an amp falls in your budget, power and features your looking for then it is a good amp for you application so get it . For all you guys interested in the sensitivity of the pra audio drivers: 6.5" = 94db @ 1w/1m 8" = 95db @ 1w/1m 10" = 94db @ 1w/1m

Dont use there wire in the car, the two times I heard or seen someone do it was a bad idea. Stick with car audio wire or weldingwire

You get what you pay for, you have to make a compromise either get what you want or you will have to get something of lesser quality. Depends on budget, features and whatever else will make you happy in a headunit. If you can wait and want to wait for the one you get then go ahead, I just installed a Jensen 7" touchscreen the other day. It does what it needs to but I wouldnt pay to put it in my car I would rather have an Alpine, Pioneer or Clarion headunit but that is just my .02

Call them for a quicker answer buddy

Pictures would help as well

Yeah I actual got another pair of mids as well, some Selenium 6W4P's to test out too. Im just looking for what sounds I will like and the only way to do it is test the ones out you been eyeing for awhile, it doesnt hurt to sell them if they dont work.

x2, even though its in my mind I always do the same thing.

Everything is getting closer and closer now, the sub stage will either be 2-12" SSA Xcons on a Crescendo 3KWP or 2-12" Havocs on a SAZ-2500D. I will be using the box from SSA's technical section for either enclosure: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/technical/xcon-box-designs/xcon-12q-dual-ported.html. **** I will be taking 8" off the port length to change the tuning to 32hz, still debating between the two.

Also make sure your not using any Bass Boost on amp or headunit, dont use the loud/loudness feature on your headunit either.

Oops, my bad . I personally just called him on the phone to discuss my needs, you will get alot farther, alot faster that way. just a thought. I know I just didnt want to bother him with just a simple question, so I could wait since im in no rush. Sorry some how I missed your last question. I would recommend a 200amp or 250amp alternator. That will help meet the needs of your electrical system and help the voltage stay up higher. Your cool, thats why I bumped it just for you. Yeah I talked to DC Power and found out they do have a HO Alt for my car , and its a 275A. Thanks again Sorry for thread jacking, we can get back to regular scheduled programming.

Rockford would be my choice between the two

What you know about Casanova? Nice whip, already has nice paint job and wheels so now it needs some beat.

Im loving the old school grand prix

There is other equipment that you can buy online to take to the shop and have them install it for a smaller overall total but if your set on those exact products with the warranty there offering then go for it. Just my .02, make sure the shop is a good shop and they walk you through what they are doing before hand to see if you get a good vibe from them.

Do you have a volt meter installed to measure your voltage or a DMM to measure your voltage? Turn the gain down some, probably 60% and see how that treats you (its probably not the right way but 80% is to high). You want to make the amps signal match the headunits signal, which 2.5 volts

According to crutchfield.com, if you drive a 1998 Dodge Neon Sedan then your front doors are 6.75" and the rear deck is 6x9" (they dont list a tweeter size or middle speaker size). You wont need bass blocker depending for what speakers your talking about, I would look into some component speakers, go to different sound shops or electronic stores that sell car speakers and listen to them. This way you will find what you like. What is you budget for speakers and amp? If you get component speakers for your front doors then they will come with a passive crossover so you wont have to worry about bass blockers or anything else.