jcarter1885

Who knows but I plan on the end of the summer to be the ETA of the build and then I can start working on the car itself unless some issues arise that make me change priorities. Instead of rushing like a lot of people, Im doing more research on products instead of buying and installing like I have down in the past. If I did it this way years ago I would be finish by now or just changing a few things and not everything in the car. Im close to $5,000 worth of audio equipment that has been installed in my car since 2004-2005, so Im changing how I do things this time around. If I can finish things quicker then me and you both will be happy campers, everyday I just try to get one step closer thats all.

Dont rush things, even if it isnt true give everything 24 hours to dry (you dont want to do it again). You gave yourself an answer with I dont want to mess up $250 speakers, if your that worried then wait it wont kill you at all.

The power you have should not determine what subwoofer you run, there is no such thing as underpowering a woofer neither so either choice will do just fine (its whether he wants to spend an extra $100 for more output).

Yeah its worth it but that is up to you, its your money and your system. If it is in your budget then get the BL but if not the SSD will perform well also.

It just took some talking about it to bring it up, congrats.

You shouldnt buy something you cant fit in your car unless you care about looks than performance and dont mind it not sounding as loud or as good as it should, but to each its own since it is your money. To see if you have the space go get the max dimensions of your trunk (length x width x depth) and that will help you decide what you can fit in your trunk.

What are the exact model numbers of your amp, because I doubt you will be using 8360 watts all the time. Give us this information plus any electrical upgrades you have done to your car so far.

Go with a 15", cramping an 18" in a box too small will not perform how a 15" will in its recommended enclosure.

What is worse is my Sundown SAZ-2000D has been sitting in the corner since I received it in July from pre-order, almost a whole year and hasnt even seen a tenth of a second of playing time (still brand new). I should be playing hopefully by the end of April, just want to do this build right.

I feel your pain, I have been waiting for bass since October since I took my last system out.

You ordered it at the wrong time, two weeks ago minus one week for preparing all previous orders and getting Team IA ready for SBN last weekend and one week build time of your order. So your right on schedule if you ask me, next week should be your lucky week.

Just go with 1/0, will help out a lot.

Most people use 1/0 awg, but it depends: on what you plan on running, stock alt size and stock factory wiring size. Minus well do it 1/0 awg to avoid having to do it again if you upgrade system or anything in the future. I got my wire from knukonceptz.com or you can get some from weldingsupply.com as well.

Wire the rca's as normal on the headunit and amp.

A BTL will be fine on that amplifier, sets your gains right and bump away. What size enclosure you plan on going with?

One day what I need to do is let my cousin drive my car while I check all the places where I can find noise, that will be the start. I know the main problems in my car are trunk, rear wheel wells, doors and possibly the floor but havent diagnosed that as a trouble area yet. Thanks for the heads up now I have a new plan on the agenda, diagnose road noise while someone else is driving.

That is the kind of dog I want, I have been debating between them and Boxers. Very nice looking dog you have there.

Plus there are a lot of videos on youtube that show you as well, there is someone on this forum that has done one in a build log I believe (probably not recently but I seen it one day while bored).

If you have to ask this question then stick with rated rms of 400 rms but it will really come down to your enclosure so those details would help answer your question more accurate.

Appreciate you, I actually get a lot of inspiration from watching others build logs and it helps open my mind on what I want to do. I think Im gonna just CCF and MLV my hole ca(trunk, doors, floor) since I took car of the rattles with expanding foam earlier and not use any deadener but that is still a toss up (gonna wait till I talk to Don @ SDS).

Definitely need to get bigger wire for one, that gauge will not cut it for the power you are trying to pull out of that amp (that seems like the main fail in the setup right now). You need to do the Big 3 and get a volt meter to watch your voltage but I would get that wire changed out ASAP.

A song is not made for one type of speaker, dont even know how he came up with it. It has to do with your electrical, amp settings or how you have your sub wired.

Everybody does not have signature's turned on, so giving us more information to help you out. What is your sub wired to, how did you set your amp up, enclosure specs and so on, electrical upgrades?

Well I couldnt tell you directly but I do know in my situation that what was causing my noise, once I did my Big 3 in 1/0 gauge and doubled the ground run from battery to chassis it went away. My car has horrible gounding so I notice if I went overkill on grounds I eliminated a lot of noises that caused interference. The pop on noise can be the amp itself: some have a delay, some are mute and some are loud so it really depends but I would let others chime in as well.