jcarter1885

Yeah im playing around with the Box Calc on RE Audio Website right now the only thing im confused on is the box vol i got it to 1.43cubic ft before the sub displacement of .15cubic ft. but i do not now if that 1.43cubic ft includes the port volume. Yeah that volume on RE Audio is calculated with the port volume displacement included. Tune your box a little lower if you want some lows, anywhere from 30-35Hz (daily driving tuning frequencies). Yes you can get your wood cut at Lowes or Home Depot for like 25-75 cent a cut I believe, that is what I will be doing since I havent bought any tools since I been home from college.

Never heard of them or seen them, I will have to go to Fry's and keep and eye out for them when I go buy me some speaker wire for my interior speakers.

Glad you finally got the hardest part done which is making a decision on what you want to do.

x2, if any amp that claims it can put out 1200-1500 watts or more and only has 4 gauge inputs than that should of been a sign to you not to get it.

Now that is a beast, why are you yelling at us (turn off your caps lock).

Online they will tell you, you just gotta search for it or you can call your dealership. Naw you fuse to the wire and not the alternators rating. I have done the Big 3 two times so I know how much it costs, I said it isnt expensive like other car audio electrical upgrades that you can do.

Bad things over time. Do some research and see what you come up with.

If I were you I would try to get this done ASAP!, but that is me.

The big 3 is relatively cheap compared to anything else in car audio especially dealing with electrical upgrades.

You should upgrade your grounds first, you never want a positive wire bigger than your ground wire.

Before I even read this your gonna need to do the Big 3 regardless of what you will be running. We need to know the alternator's amp rating on each car if you want us to give you some accurate info.

Looking good so far.

Your first step should be to determine what car your gonna get instead of speculating. Unless your buying it with your money and can control what you can get, then buying ahead of time may be a waste especially if you get something that two 18"s cant fit in with there respected enclosures. Just my .02

Devin The Dude - Thinkin' Boutchu

Next time search and look up subwoofer wiring diagrams (there a lot on the internet):

The RMS is 1k watts. A couple hundred over will not matter. Stick with 1k-1500. Im assuming this is for music and not burping or anything, right? You can get a 10,000 watt amplifier and put it on there, as long as you set your gains and use the volume know wisely you will be cool .

Usher - Superstar

Congrats that you pulled the trigger on the Xcon.

So it ended up being the volt meter that was giving you a low reading?

Get a piece of string or tape measure and measure how much wire you will need to (that is how I did it).

This is over a three year old thread.

Welcome and glad you could join us, nice car audio throwbacks you have there.

what price range will the sa-15 be around? any t/s specs? SA-10 and SA-15 Factory Pictures - SSA Car Audio Forum Specs will be a bit different on the production 15" but pretty close to that... I changed the cone to a bit thicker version. They will be price just a bit more than the 12s what is the eta on the sa-15? how much can it safely handle? The recommended RMS, that is why manufactures give you this number to know what to play it at safely.

Well thanks for the responses, yeah I made my mind up about what deck to get. Appreciate it