jcarter1885

I just switched my door speakers from the 8 ohm version to the 4 ohm version of Eminence (Alpha-6A to Alpha-6C) so know my speakers drop down to a 2 ohm load on each channel (their rms is 100watts a piece and the channel puts out 225 rms). This sounds way better than what I had in their at first, the speakers that were in their were 8 ohms, 100rms each and dropped down to 4 ohms on each channel (getting only 125 rms between the two, thats why I wanted it louder since I was only close to half their output).

I couldnt find the Image Dynamics CD1e that you had mention earlier, so which one of these would work (boy do they have some price tags on them) and what would you think would be a good amp for them (SAX125.2, SAX50.4 or SAX 100.4)? http://www.woofersetc.com/p5003/CD1-V3--Image-Dynamics-Controlled-Dispersion-Speaker-System.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p5004/CD1MH-V3--Image-Dynamics-Reduced-Size-Mini-Horns.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p5005/CD1PRO--Image-Dynamics-Ultra-Compact-Competition-HLCD-Speaker-System.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p5007/CD2COMP--Image-Dynamics-Competition-HLCD-Speaker-System-with-Titanium-Alloy-Driver.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p5008/CD2COMP-MH--Image-Dynamics-MiniHorn-Reduced-Size-Competition-HLCD-Speaker-System.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p6817/Ultra-ProCompF--Image-Dynamics-Ultra-Competition-HLCD-Full-Size-Horn.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p6818/Ultra-ProCompM--Image-Dynamics-Ultra-Competition-HLCD-MIni-Size-Horn.htm Appreciate your help.

Naw because it never was confusing to me in the first place considering I had it all planned and mapped out, I usually draw my system out before I start on it but I guess it would be confusing to someone who doesnt not whats going on or isn't apart of the installation. Are there any other tweeter(or just horns) suggestions that you could throw out, looking into those as we speak. Just trying to see if those are the only ones that work or would those just be my best bet. Im not quite sure if I want or need to add mid-bass to my system yet, not saying I dont need to at all just unsure(the only time Im lacking some bass is when my subs are off and I notice that my alpha's are mid-range and not mid-basses at all). But besides that I can live without mid-bass since 100% of the time my subs are on and if im wrond or you see that I may need some mid-bass then please fill me, thanks man. So far these are some other options Ive seen (am I going in the right direction): http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_293&products_id=8475 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_293&products_id=8322 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_293&products_id=286 http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_293&products_id=290

Well I definantly appreciate your input, after looking over some things and listening to you and M5's input; Im going to keep current setup as is. Current setup for interior speakers: Front Driver Door: 2-Eminence Alpha 6A (channel 1 on SAX125.2) Front Passenger Door: 2-Eminence Alpha 6A (channel 2 on SAX125.2) Rear Driver Door: 2-Eminece Alpha 6A (channel 3 on future 4 channel amp) Rear Passenger Door: 2-Eminece Alpha 6A (channel 4 on future 4 channel amp) I will do as Lithium states and just have the channels 3 and 4 off until someone is in the backseat so they will not be playing (I went outside and had all doors playing and compared it to just the front two doors playing and enjoyed the latter of the two better. So Im now in need of some tweeters to go with my front stage, more than likely they will be powered by a SAX100.4 on channels 1 & 2. I want a nice sounding pair of tweeters and I prefer soft dome tweeters (not a fan of bullet horn tweeters, bullet tweetersm horn tweeters, etc.). Suggestions would be appreciated, thanks guys for your input because Im learning.

What tweeters would you recommend M5 or think are geared for my direction?

I have no experience with Nightshades but from what you posted it already seems like you have it tuned at 32hz which is technically groundponder status, if you tune it higher then you will be worried about numbers instead of groundpounder style. just my .02

where can i get info on the sundown amps? SundownAudio.com SSA.com (Forum under Manufacturers Thread and Online Store) thanks i found the site.. brosing through the forum right after posted DOH ! lol Is it a dual 1 ohm or dual 2 ohms subwoofer? If you havent bought it yet I recommend a dual 2 ohm subwoofer (wired parallel to 1 ohm load) and get a 1 ohm stable amp. Sundown FTW!!!

where can i get info on the sundown amps? SundownAudio.com SSA.com (Forum under Manufacturers Thread and Online Store)

I respect everything you say and thats what Im on here for, the best insight in helping me get what I want. The goals I have for interior speakers is to be loud, really loud (I know that I will sacrifice imaging and some accuracy for this but I just dont want my car to be all bass neither). If there are better ways to go about this then Im open to them. Current setup for interior speakers: Front Driver Door: 2-Eminence Alpha 6A (channel 1 on SAX125.2) Front Passenger Door: 2-Eminence Alpha 6A (channel 1 on SAX125.2) Rear Driver Door: 2-Eminece Alpha 6A (channel 2 on SAX125.2) Rear Passenger Door: 2-Eminece Alpha 6A (channel 2 on SAX125.2) 1 Pair of Boss Audio Tweeters TW12 (on factory speaker wire till I get another amp for them but definantly plan on upgrading them in the future) What I was planning on adding: 3 pairs of Seas PrestigeTweeters for (one tweeter on each pillar-A,B) 2 pairs of Eminence Alpha 6c (4 channel amp, Sax 100.4) I dont want to come off as being negative or a jerk Im just not going to have only a front stage in my car(Im willing to re-look at whats on my addition list and scratch what may be scratched but Im leaving the 2 speakers in each door alone) like alot of individuals in this forum. It may be the right way to go and I understand a good front stage is all that you need but thats one adjustment I wont make but open to anything else that can be said about my addition plans. Thanks M5. Why wont the Seas work for me? I meant mid-ranges(Eminence Alpha 6A) and not mid-bass for the rear deck, my apologies. Any suggestions, reccomendations or advice please state and share M5 and we can go from there. This is why I made this post also to get your say-so which I know you have alot and Im very appreciative for. Last time I made a topic about my interior speakers, you gave me great advice that I used and made alot of corrections in the car that day so thank you once again. **********(Im thinking about doing without the 4-Eminence Alpha 6c's for the rear deck which means no fiberglassing and dropping one pair or two pairs of tweeters; I might just get another SAX125.2 for the current interior speakers so the load on each amp per channel is 4 and not 2.)********** just some suggestions I thought about while typing this up.

I know that it may seem like its a head unit problem and it may be but with these new cars not being made as the cars in the 80's and 90's mostly steel bodies and exterior panels grounding is becoming more of an issue. Just try and redo the grounds (im giving you good info and your bypassing it), I have over three head units, six different amps thinking they were all the problem when in actuallity it was the car itself and the factory grounds plus some wires needed plastic covering to eliminate any noises they could put out. Find another head unit or use a friends and switch them out to see if its still there and im sure if it is then you will thank me by saving you money from buying a new head unit (try the cheap permanent options first instead of buying a new head unit) just my .02

Good to hear.. then I can sell it (Stinger HPM) toward the Treo SSX 12".. looking to replace that first.. and later on the amp x2, sell the cap. How stuck on the Treo SSX are you, did you check out any subwoofers from the SSA store? Great choice on amplifiers also and what are you gonna do with the old equipment (just curious since I have a friend who is wanting to do an all Infinity Setup in his new car as he did in his previous car, cant talk him out of it so Im gonna let him get what he wants since its his money and im just installing).

Thats just a temporary fix, you need to find out what the problem is so you can fix it and not have the problem come about again. You need to redo all your grounds and check all rca's with ones ran throughout the car to see if were your running them is a problem. I had one amp where the rca jacks were being bent due to the install and angle it was, show us a picture of how yours is installed. I really think you need to redo your grounds all of them, but thats just my .02 (I've probably had the worst alternator whine for the longest than anbody probably in car audio history). After I redid my big 3 grounds with 1/0 awg I still had a slight noise only noticeable at small volumes shen bass wasnt hiting, once I covered up the ground wire for my radiator fan which was my last fix that took the problem completely away. When I first got in the car at night(sometimes during the day) a week after the fix, I drive around with no music for a minute just to make sure that the whine is gone and it is.

Im actually gonna have 4-6.5" or 8" speakers for midbass right behind my back seats, in the front half of the rear deck so that is the reason it calls for fibergalssing since the speakers are to deep to fit onto the stock panel piece that is there(well I should of clarified it will be a fiberglass enclosure not just fiberglassing rear deck for no reason).

It sounds like you should of been their to install it so you would know yourself that it was hooked up right and working before you left, but since you left they can say it never worked from jump. I still will tell my friend you owe me regradless of the situation but you live and you learn.

Well if your trying to compare output from higher frequencies at the same volume to lower frequencies then it wont never be even. Regardless where you have the filter at, 500 watts @ 30 hz will sound lower and have less output then 500 watts @ 40, 50, 60 hz and so on.

If your gonna buy an amp that can run speakers active then in my opinion it is a waste to buy it for a passive set of component speakers. Active A word prefacing certain circuits in which the processing is performed by use of transistor or tube juctions, rather than passive componenets such as resistors, capacitors, and coils. Such items as crossovers and equalizers may be constructed either way. Active processing usually affords more more options, and greater precision, albeit at greater cost. (A tweeter and Mid-range/Mid-bass speaker without a crossover box before an amp, usually crossed at amp, head unit or any good equalizer) Passive Component In a crossover system, a non-powered component used to separate an audio signal into a specified frequency band before it goes to a particular amplifier or driver. A passive device usually incurs some loss (expressed in decibels) to a system. Typical such components include capacitors, coils, and resistors. (A component set of speakers, same brand of tweeters and mids with a crossover attached to them) I think there are way better and cheaper solutions than those rockford fosgate components that sound good. Go active and look at mids and tweeters(if you want the 50.4 hurry up and buy since they are getting phased out) but the SAX100.4 will suit your needs perfectly if you want to run mids and tweets, the SAX125.2 will only do if you just purchasing mids: Tweeters (www.madisound.com or www.parts-express.com) Mids(SSA.com-mach 5 audio mli-65 or Ascendant Audio 7" Mids; www.parts-express.com)

So after listening to M5 and a couple other people on this forum who made great points to remove my 6.5" speakers from my rear deck I am glad you guys opened me up to a whole different world of sound in my car. Those 2-6.5" opening allow for so much bass to come through into the cabin of my car from the trunk its ridiculous, more ouput and better sound from my subs was gained. I used to be one of those guys who wanted millions of speakers in the interior of the car no matter where I could put them. I learned that the right placement, power, control(EQ'ing) would make up for more sound than a billion speakers in the ca (one friend used to tell me before I joined this site that any speaker I through in the car no matter if it was 2" to 6" would help out with the overall sound and would benefit, I called him yesterday to disagree and tell him my new findings). I have a quick question for you guys, I am going to fiberglass my rear deck after I dampen it: #1- I will dampen the rear deck but leave the two speaker holes(factory ones) in the rear deck uncovered so I will have a way to allow more bass in my cabin since I keep my seats up most of the time when playing music or driving around. I know that everybody on this site can find an advantage or disadvantage on why things should be done to help out with car audio, would this be an advantage or disadvantage for dampening everythind on the rear deck topside(cabin) and bottomside(trunk) but leave the speaker holes open for sound and pressure to get through? If it will benefit me to leave the holes open then I will just fiberglass around it which I think will add some creativity, just wanted to ask before I started on my rear deck. Thankx for input and .02's.

Im amazed at his work, I bet his wife he made her some carbon skin when he was done with the car. Im not mad at him cause thats one bad BMW, no words can describe how he is treating his car all around the board. Wish I had the patience, skills, tools, mentality, money and time he had to get that done (which it looks like he is doing all by himself for the most part).

Glad you could join us, whatever you want to know then just ask. Email Jacob personally since he is the master of Sundown amps but many people hear do have them.

i dont have enough extra wire to try that. check your speaker wires, rcas for cuts or damages in them were they could be grouding out. I redid my factory grounds and upgraded them to 1/0awg wire(sanded where Saturn didnt), I also covered all wires (positive and negative) in engine bay and ones for amps and my whinig went away after having it for close to three years.

Glad you could join us.

x2, You should get a Fi Q with or without BP Power (its up to you, it will give your sub more thermal handling for a little more abuse but not to much more than standard specs). The 10" needs .2 - .6ft^3 while the 12" needs .8 - 1.5ft^3, so if you can get over .8ft^3 after sub displacement is calculated from box volume then go 12" but I would go 10" since you have limited space and dont want to put a good speaker in a cramped box plus ( any sub will get low no matter 10" or 12") so if thats what you want then just get the 10" my friend.

dont damage your equipment for whatever goal or reason you want to, only buy subs the same ohm load and hopefully the exact same model and brand.

x2, maan thats one nice box with excellent fabrication to it. Talk to a dude on here name shizzzon (he has stewie griffin as his avatar I believe) he has the most knowledge with those subs and what to do with them. Send him a message (PM) and he will respond to you.