jcarter1885

and the sub woofers displacement also lol and bracing. x2

Go ahead and use a 1/0 or 2 awg wire for the wire leaving the battery and fuse to the distribution block. Use the 4 gauge you took out and put that on your second amp. Keep your non-fused distribution block, you will be ok with a non-fused one just make sure upgrade the fuse that's 8" from the battery with at least a 150ANL.

Upgrading your cars wire to 1/0 gauge will help with the voltage alot especially just by upgrading the two ground wires only(I went from starting at 14.0-14.1volts when my car started to 14.5-14.7v whenever I start my car depending on the temperature outside after just upgrading my ground wires only). I would use around a 150 anl fuse for your power wire, maybe not that big since you will be running the amp at 2 ohms but someone else may chime in if they feel differently about the size of anl fusing. are you sure 150amp? i though after 120 amps 4gauge wire starts to heat up depending on what the wire is! also maybe do the BIG 3 jsut b/c it helps out with everything in your car! I meant if he used a distribution block (one in and one out) by the battery under the hood, thats why I recommended a 150ANL fuse not for each amp seperatly.

and the sub woofers displacement also

Upgrading your cars wire to 1/0 gauge will help with the voltage alot especially just by upgrading the two ground wires only(I went from starting at 14.0-14.1volts when my car started to 14.5-14.7v whenever I start my car depending on the temperature outside after just upgrading my ground wires only). I would use around a 150 anl fuse for your power wire, maybe not that big since you will be running the amp at 2 ohms but someone else may chime in if they feel differently about the size of anl fusing.

i would like to see the test if u did it

good with what can fit because crampped subs in a small box will not sound to good or give you the best output. just my .02

kenwood > pioneer in my opinion. I also went from pioneer premier to kenwood excelon (didnt notice to much of a difference in sound quality since their RMS/channel and pre-out voltage are the same).

This question in a sense is a "loaded" question. Of course cone area plays a factor, install plays a huge factor and power plays a factor. I wouldn't even venture a guess on this question unless I had them both in the described setup to compare. Sorry I can't be of more help, it's just one of those questions that has an opionated answer. If budget is a factor, I would go with the ICON combo, it it's not, then go with the XCON combo. They both hit hard. I would say in my opinion that maybe the XCON will hit harder, but again, thats just my opinion and not necessaraly fact. x2, something is telling me that the 12" Xcon would do a little more than the 15" Icon but I think that would be a close fight (that would be a good comparison if someone owned both subs and would be willing to test them out).

damn that sucks to hear man and I hope you get everything worked out in the end(I hate being system or bassless). Im glad I didnt buy a kicker or piooneer monoblock amp just for that reason their (no adjustable sub sonic filter). I know you paid an arm and leg for it but I suggest you sell the amp, get a recone for you BTL and buy a Sundown amp. good luck

going from four 12"s to two 12"s and still getting the same output and if not more than I would say it is good for your setup. that doesnt mean there isnt room for improvement, as you know in car audio any tweaking will result in better numbers. so keep the work up and good scores.

good job my feeling Texan, even the people who beat ou have to be impressed since your number were as good as there's with less equipment.

Should be fine, mine worked well for the price. Thanks! Do you(or anybody) think it's worth it to pay $38 more for the BXi-2010D, which is this years model? New, as opposed to a refurbished BXi-2006D. Thats how I buy my car audio equipment brand new(not like I dont trust refubished items because I bought two kicker cvx 12"s used from Hifisoundconnection and didnt have a problem with them at all for over a year playing at .5 ohms), I would pay that extra $40 for my piece of mind. just my .02

u mean hifonics poop, well let me know what was better the Hifonics 1610 or Rockford t1000bd

Secondskin RaceDayInsulator Secondskin Thirdskin Protector

another thing to think about is what system did you have in there before (amp, head unit, wires, rcas and subs). If same amp but different subs and u moved the amp around or did something different when hooking it up (by accident), then go back a retrace your steps.

well if jay-cee doesnt get this dont for you, ill get a design drawn up tomorrow at work Yeah I started on a design for him but then remembered that he wanted port and sub back, I was doing port back and sub up. I like that T-Line box idea also Shizzzon

Secondskin RacingThermal Secondskin CheckeredFlag Mat Secondskin BelowZeroLiner Secondskin NorhPoleMat

im tuned into this build log, did you ever take any videos of your old setup.

yeah thats a ported enclosure for 2-15" subwoofers

I already used solar shield, this is going to be a repitive word game. this should be fun!

usually any whining or pops coming from speakers is a ground problem (usually it seems like its gone or just comes and goes). Sanding paint from metals chassis and even covering the ground wires with plastic tubing will help also (especially for a situation I had for over three years considering saturn makes horrible grounds for their vehicles.

so did wiring in series to 4 ohms work or is your amp still giving you problems.

you got me wanting to start a process for finding my vehicle's peak frequency. my first step is to go and buy a TL meter.

no dont end it, I wish my funds were better.