jcarter1885

hey there, glad to see you could join us

Secondskin DryIce Mat

haha I thought it was to simple to not have been used already, my fault and please dont call the deadener police

at the battery and amp, since you have a system in your car you would save yourself a lot of stress if you buy a voltmeter to keep you updated at all times your cars current voltage.

2-10" ssd's in my opinion, you would need anywhere between 21.6in^2 - 28.8in^2(divide that in two if you want to make two ports).

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dual 4 ohm. i think i need to wire in series... Fi's only come in dual 1 or dual 2 Since the amp whet into protect the coils are dual 1 and you had it wired to that amp at an .50 an ohm. Run it in series and you get a 2 ohm load and you'll be good. x2 I was only thinking about mainstream subs(I meant dual 1 or 2 ohms)

what kind of electrical setup do you have (alternator anf battery)? How old is your batttery? What voltage do you sit at when playing the system and when system is not on?

email sundown and see what they can tell you. The only thing I can think that is making it hot that fast (is a bad ground or your remote turn-on is hooked up to a 12v+ power source instead of a remote or ignition wire). The no sound can be bad rca's, check all your setting on your head-unit. Its either got to be a bad ground(check your headunit and battery) or incorrect remote turn on.

good info, I saved this page as one of my favorites so I can have all these useful tips at one click away

good job on the score and nice equipment (saz-2000d already doing damage).

yeah the doors would appreciate it and you would to, especially if your adding speakers and for road noise

at the moment they are $1100, hurry up and buy!

it could be a lot of things, but when it comes car audio it usually just the small things that gives an install setbacks. a better ground is good for your amp and car #1 and your one step closer to finding out what the problem is if it wasnt the problem itself. check all your connections

a good amp thats for those sub thats on pre-order at a great price is the Sundown saz-4500D H/O Alternator: 20Amps or better Battereies: XS Power D3100 (2) Big Three Upgrade 1/0 Gauge or bigger Front to Back Battery Bank: Multiple Runs 1/0 Gauge or bigger (2/0, 3/0 or 4/0 gauge) 7-10ft^3 @ 30-35Hz after displacement (12-16in^2/cube of port area) Sub Options: Dual 1 ohms (1 ohm load when wired together), Daily, Cooling, HiXmCoil and whatever color dustcap you want.

is the ssd dual 2 ohms or dual 4 ohms

get a drill bit or flat head and open the ring up so it fits the bolt size, thats what I did or just buy bigger one's.

give us your max dimensions (depth x width x height) and go for tuning at 31HZ? I could help you make a box as soon as you give me those measurements

personally you should build a box, the same size as the one before tune a little higher. then reposition the box and see in which position it sounds better(sub up, sub back or sub firing towards inside of car), Do the same thing with the old box and see which box tuning and positioning is better. just my .02 Soundsplinter reccomends 5 ft^3 @ 27Hz so I dont see why your having a problem. What was your amps low pass filter set at, what ohm load do you have it wired at?

check to make sure you have your power and grounds on the amp in the right spot. check all your connections to your radio and make sure the connections are connected and to the right wires. If amp is getting hot that fast then it sounds like it is a connection problem with the amp, look at your grounds and make sure they are tight and locked down good to the chassis (is chassis clean and bare metal or did you not sand the paint off).

did any of those suggestions help, if so what was causing the subwoofer to pop?

How is that head unit treating ya, I know its probably the best. I have been researching them things for over a year now and was gonna get the el-khameleon (last years model but waited for this one to drop).

I was planning on rewinding the alternator, than possibly upgrading the alt to a bigger one if it doesn't help hold the voltage, anyone tested to see what the amp does at .5 ohms or .3 ohms ? naw I dont think anyone wants to void their warranty just yet for the SAZ-2000d but Im pretty sure Jacob or someone from Sundown may do a test at that ohm load to give you some results.

the best way to tell if its the sub or box, just swap out the subs in each box and if the same box is still making a flapping noise then rebuild it or whatever; if the other box makes the noise then you know its your subwoofer

what you thinking about selling them ICONS for?