jcarter1885

you definanlty have to get a video of the system when its all said and done because im thinking of getting a 15'' BTL for my saz-2000d but with a box around 5ft^3 give or take. good luck and yeah we love pictures

it loks like you need to check all your connections, rca's and wires to make sure everything is running where it should and how it should be running. check your settings on the amps, the headunit (you might need a new headunit)

well what about an 18", I have enough space to make a 5 - 5.2 ft^3 box and I was wondering what will be my best bet. I will power it by a sundown saz-2000d. I was looking at the 15" BTL but not sure if thats the sub for me or the route I wanna go. I think the Xcon or two Icons is more of my speed, I dont care about numbers at all but sometimes with friends it will be a good thing; Im more so worried about a sub getting low sounding great while doing it. appreciate ya

why would the 1500d be a good choice for two icons, they do a 1000rms a pop; i would suggest that you save up the money to get a good amp that can power them the way they want. Is it better to get any underpowered amp for your subs or an overpowered amp for your subs or both do the same rms? I would suggest the saz-2000D, im thinking about two 12" icons for my 2000.

just cuz you have any ho alternator does not mean that you can slack on batteries, you need to put some batteries back their to make power for that 4000+ rms amplifier

well personally im only going to need about 4 of them or so, I was also thinking about putting some between the amp itself and the box where the feet are not at just for a little protection or would that just be overkill. Im just going to have to find some hear locally cuz im in dallas, tx 76011 but curious for how much for 4, 6 or 8 depending if i want to put some under the amp too?

Yesterday i use three cans of plumbers expanding foam, did it work wonders until i get some deadening. First I open the trunk and use about a can and a half just for all the gaps between the two metal trunk frames on the lid. Then I used a whole can between my outer trunk skin(plastic panel or whatever its made from) and the metal frame its attached to (this achieved the best results since thats were the biggest gaps were, and my trunk closes without that hollow sound now) its sounds like my trunk is a solid heavy piece instead of the lightweight sound it had earlier. Then I used the last half of a can between the bumper and bottom lining of trunk all the way up to each side where my lights are. More sound stays in the car which im loving, it sounds like im upgraded amps or subs with just $15 in materials, try this method first since its cheap and see where it takes you (It probably wont help fix the problem 100% but its a start to a long process of quieting a trunk lid).

If all of your batteries are in the trunk would it just be better to ground all your amps to a distribution block with a 1/0 gague wire going to the battery's negative terminal or finding a ground spot? Will every battery's negative post be a 0 ohm resistance, if so that would be my best ideal spot. Right now I have them to my seat bolt frame, you should try that spot out also or get a DMM to find the resistance which is my next step.

i honestly dont really see what the difference is in mounting the amps, if you have the space to not mount them on the box then I would recommend that you dont. on the other hand if you dont have the space then thats the route to go in my opinion. Everyone says an amp will fail if you do so, for how many years have people been doing this type of mouting amps on boxes and not have any problems even with some of the big systems in the world. personally a car is gonna vibrate more than a box would, imagine how many holes and speed bumps you ride over or just beat up streets that you travel on everyday. I even turned my system off one day and just noticed its never gonna be a smooth ride wherever you go, my seats and other interior parts were shaking just from the ride alone (I dont mean shaking like loose, I mean shaking cause of the vibrations from the ride). On my next setup I will have my amp mounted on my box just like its been for over three years now, the only precaution I will take this time is to put something in between the feet and back of the amp such as foam pieces to alleviate from extra vibrations. just my .02

ok thats what I expected you getting them this week and me next week give or take a few days. Im loving your customer service man keep up the great work.

Im glad antiicipation is not high for this amplifier since I dont have the electrical to back it up and plan on selling my subs for a new one. Im guessing were looking towards the middle of July now, hopefully not later than that but you never know.

what would be acceptable rms for a nightshade 12" or 15" on a daily music system

what specs are u guys builiding yours boxes to for the dual 12" Icons because Im thinking of the same setup with my saz-2000d or 1-15" Xcon.

well what size box do you recommend for a xcon 15"

check to see what ohm load you are running your speakers at, what subs do you have? do you have a good electrical system backing up this power?

well I designed a box thats: (Outside) 35"W x 14.25"H x 27"D (Inside) 33.5"W x 12.75"H x 25.5"D (Port) 4.8"W x 12.75"H x 19"L = 61.20in^2/ Port Area Range = 61-82in^2 Net Air Space after Port and Sub Displacement(.21ft^3 based off 15"BTL): 5.11ft^3 @ 31.85 Hz I did some searching throw the threads under DC Sound Lab and have been reading that the Level 5's will take way more power than 2000 RMS. I will have a Sundown Saz-2000D when they ship out and was wondering with those specs what 15" would be better for me Level 4, Level 4XL or Level 5.

What do you plan on running them off of? Im thinking of getting two for my three amps, it that a blue(-) wire and red (+) wire on the fan(Stinger SgJ78 if those are the same ones you have)

Well was the loose remote wire the problem or is the system still causing problems. Im thinking you have a loose power or ground wire somewhere cause I had this problem when one of my connections became loose on my epic-160 one day and on my equalizer another day. make sure every connection is tight.

how many fans do you have and how are they treating ya. cant wait to see a demo video

nice simple build so farf, keep up the good work. beemer riding in style now

I think an Xcon will be more of my taste, I want a good quality sub that can be played daily and after looking at a lot of people throwing 2500rms or better @ the BTL then it wouldnt suit me. If you feel different feel free to voice your .02

I think an Xcon will be more of my taste, I want a good quality sub that can be played daily and after looking at a lot of people throwing 2500rms or better @ the BTL then it wouldnt suit me. If you feel different feel free to voice your .02

I finally figured out how to work it, thanks again.

Well I just calculated a box thats 35"W x 14.25"H x 27"D (5.11 ft^3 @ 31.85 Hz after port and sub displacement). Port Area= 61.20in^2 (Range: 61-82). Port Front/Sub Up. It will house a Fi BTL 15".

cant wait to see it when the 4 are in there, some good flex going.