altoncustomtech

Does the Escort have an actual frame to ground to? I'd be surprised if it does as it seems like those kinds of cars (all, not just escorts) are never anything more than tin cans with a little sub frame in the front for the engine/transmission/suspension to mount to, but then I don't know much about those particular cars as Ford's in general give me hives. May he be better off running a 2/0 ground wire to the rear? I agree 100%, well made and well finished. Is it his first enclosure Ken?

to the forum fellow Hoosier, describe "central" Indiana LOL. I felt the same way about the other forums out there like ca.com, found this place and have never looked back! I assume the 18" tall limit is to stay below the window line for class purposes? I think after sub and port displacement you'll be in the 3.2ish cuft area which seems a tad small to me, maybe not though. I'm not familiar with the opti series subs so I can't speak much to that end. When you inverted the sub you gained enclosure space and (if I'm remembering correctly, that could be bass ackwards) raised tuning a little. Changes like that are what makes the differences in competition from everything I've read and seen. You'll find lots of good people and information here, so don't fret you'll get answers.

Like another lower powered sub that has already been mentioned they need more publicity or word spread or something. There's nothing wrong with a great lower powered sub like the X but everyone thinks they need 1 or 2 thousand watts worth of subs to get loud enough.

When you're constantly looking for new ways to hoard up cash to buy more equipment. When you're coming up with outlandish reasons to tell the wife why you're still getting equipment, and she believes them. When your bedroom closet looks like the store room of a fully stocked local shop packed front to back and floor to ceiling with equipment. When just about everyone you meet calls you the speaker guy. When everyone you talk to asks why they're always hearing thunder before your wife drives up in her mini van. When the owner of the local gas station asks you to be sure to have it turned down before entering the lot because he's afraid you're going to break the windows from the flex he sees them doing. When the employees of the same gas station thank you for knocking a blockage out of the ice machine when you gave someone a demo out front.

Yeah... that does suck. You shouldn't have much problem recouping most of the cost on everything considering the age on it, and if you keep up the posting you'll have the count you need to sell everything very quickly. Everything you listed there are hot items.

I doubt they take returns either, but why not simply try to sell it outright? I'm sure someone could use a Q10, besides, why can't you use it/want to return it?

hmm.... Then hopefully Nick or Scott can chime in and help you with the ID for certain.... no one, including myself, is trying to hammer you or cause you any trouble here either... simply making sure the information is correct and you're quite right about where it looks like someone tried to over write the marker... if i was you i'd be after the person who sold it to me for sure.... BL's had slightly smaller motor's and are rated at 1,000 wrms.... BTL's obviously had larger motors and were rated 2,000wrms....

exactly..... fi doesn't write any information anywhere on the sub itself except for the voice coil former... look through the vents in the frame at the coil, it will tell you what it is for sure....

Looking forward to seeing the end result on those doors. The entire build is looking great!

Awesome, that's some great old equipment there. to the forum!!!

Julian is right, it's about the only good way to do it. How thick is the plexi you bought? NVM, reading > me. Cut the window in the enclosure 1" smaller all the way around, so since your plexi is 12"x24" then cut out 10"x22". Then cut out a frame that's with a hole the same size as the plexi but 1" wide all the way around (outside size 14"x26" with a hole 12"x24"). Next cut out another frame that is 14"x26" (outside dimensions) with a hole that is only 1/2" smaller than the frame (11"x25"). That will sandwich the plexi into the enclosure, be sure to use glue on the frame's like you did the enclosure and seal everywhere the plexi touches MDF with silicone. That will get the plexi mounted in there tight and look good from the outside because the inner frame is a little smaller than the window in the enclosure itself it will be difficult to see the frame. I used a router to step cut the plexi and MDF frame on mine so it's a little different, but this is how mine is done. Yours will just have two separate pieces of MDF instead of one, unless you have access to a router, then I could help walk you through doing it that way as well. Here's how my sandwich was done. And here's what it looked like when done. and Hope that's some help.

RAM will help more than a new HDD for certain. The way prices have and continue to drop on computer components the RAM could be cheaper than the HDD. Ordering from Newegg is recommended IMO. Cheaper prices, easy to deal with when a return is needed and you could get both the RAM upgrade and a HDD for more storage at the same place at the same time.

AWESOME!!! Glad to see it buddy!!

Welcome to the forum!!

LOL, guess the picture of that XCON really got the guys attention. What was really funny was they were all kinda shocked that all the information I was giving them was so readily available on the web. It's like they were completely shocked to learn there was such a thing as the forum where so many gather to talk, live and breath audio I couldn't help but laugh a little. The thing I thought was really funny was that all the times I've been playing the van around town and never gotten more than looks yet the shirt got someone to come up. Guess I need to invest in some XCONs, LOL.

^^THIS^^ While not entirely feasible or practical, I second the notion. I'LL HELP!!

Got me noticed today, LOL! Was filling the work truck and some kid pulled up at poundin' away in his explorer. One of his buddies noticed the XCON on the back of my shirt and asked me what the hell it was (he said it looked badass, I told him it is). So then an hour long conversation broke out and we talked audio, car shows, car clubs and I looked at the dudes modest little setup. Even recommended he toss in a BIG 3 with his HO alt he had just ordered from Ohio Generator. All in all an interesting happenstance, kewl couple of dudes and I'm sure they'l be checking out the forum as well since I told them all about it!! GO SSA!!! I gotta order more shirts!

I can't imagine there's very many US based and building amp manufacturers to start with. It can't be easy to find them, let alone not pass out at the quotes given for doing the OEM work.

I'll be patiently waiting in anticipation... And so it was written. The Zcon sounds great on anything and everything I play on them. Excellent Subs. I actually prefer the zcon to the Xcon and I love the Xcon. I think that says a lot right there, it will come down to the design and execution as to how good it sounds, but I have no doubts that they can be just as articulate as you need them to be.

To question #1, IMHO it would be easier, cheaper and stronger to build a standard style enclosure and then build a beauty panel to make things more aesthetically appealing than it would to build an entire enclosure for it out of fiberglass. Not to mention that with a beauty panel you could rework it to change up the look much easier than you could an entire enclosure. To question #2 I'll leave it to someone with more experience directly with the ZCON. Though I would imagine it will sound fine on anything you throw at it. Besides how it sounds is so much more install and enclosure dependent than it is driver dependent. Also, if you buy it and build it I'm going to have to see it in person, it's a law since you're only an hour away from where I'm at. LOL

Thanks guys, and Ohjay you have no idea. It doesn't touch the door when it's closed, but you can't fit your fingers between the back door and the box.

WOW. Can anyone say toasted?

Finally got some pictures of the DCON in her truck.... Here's a shot of the amp hiding back there. The wiring was cleaner than that after the initial installation, apparently her dog has decided to rearrange them on a couple of occasions. Talk about the phrase "fit like a glove". That enclosure fits so well it's hard to believe the door shuts at all, let alone without hitting it. Have to excuse my sister on the paint job, she literally meant it when she said she didn't care what it looked like, LOL. Here's a nice shot of the front. Still amazing how good it sounds and how much output it can provide. Have to give my thanks and recommendations to Andrew at Argent Audio on the enclosure. It turned out fantastic and exactly as I had it measured and designed.

Happy Birthday!!

I think you'd be surprised how much of that noise is the trunk lid rattling against the car. The braces could also easily be attributing to the noise as well. You don't need to fully cover the lid with deadener to effectively get it quiet either. You can fill the empty spaces within the braces with expanding foam, just be slow and careful in the application. (You might be surprised at how powerful the foam can be against sheet metal and a bulge in the middle of a panel wouldn't look good.) Some weatherstripping foam around the lid where it contacts the factory weatherstrip will help to tighten the lid and reduce how much it can move in the first place as well.