altoncustomtech

My sister has a single 12" DCON D4 on a Hifonics ZXi8006 which is giving it ~300wrms @ 2 ohms. In the proper enclosure IT WILL NOT DISAPPOINT!!! I've owned and installed quite a few single sub setups over the years and I have to say that for the rated power, enclosure size and price tag the DCON carries with it I've yet to find it's equal in both output and overall sound.

LOL!! you: Did you feel it shaking ya? dad: It hurt! Priceless....

Happy Birthday Nick!! Hope your bday is a great one!

First of all, that page and the answer to it on the blog are funny as hell...... to read. Diablo is right, it's assbags like that who make it hard for the rest of us to enjoy our hobby or passion or only escape from the dull drab painful excuse for a life, and for some, way of life or bread & butter or only stinking way we're making any kind of lowly living, LOL. Anyway... We don't need any more attempts at complete silence like the one that almost took Hawaii. Someone needs to find the guy that note was directed to and teach him some respect.

According to the manual on JL's website for the W3V2 (not V3) they're 300wrms. I didn't look at any other versions in the W3 series to see what they're handling was though.

IMHO I would use the MTX amp. I would imagine that most of the people who wrote saying they had problems with the amp didn't install it correctly in one way shape or form. The amp is not 1 ohm stable and I would bet that a lot of them were running it at 1 ohm anyway. The W3's are rated for 300wrms and with D4 coils your only wiring option will be either 1 ohm or 4 ohms for the pair. Now with the PA amp you can wire it to 1 ohm but the power will be roughly double what the subs are rated and the MTX can't be run @ 1ohm. That leaves wiring them at 4 ohms with which the PA amp is rated at 600wrms and the MTX is rated at 500wrms. I would trust the MTX amp in this case long before I would the PA. I think the MTX will most likely be a little under rated in it's output while the PA is most likely over rated. Aside from that you'll likely not even hear any real difference in 100watts anyway. Just my .02 and opinion.

This is also a good point, often overlooked I'm not sure how you can test for this, I'm guessing you could use an o-scope and look for a solid line among the sine wave. Actually the sine wave will have what's called DC offset. On the display of an oscope there's a grid. The center of the grid is the "zero" line and with a proper output the sine wave will be centered on that line with equal amounts of the wave going above and below the line on AC. When you have some DC going out as well the line will be lifted (or lowered if it's negative DC voltage) off the center. How much depends on the voltage scale your scope is set to and how much is riding out with the AC signal. Just FYI for anyone who cares. Another possible problem he could have with the amp is that the filtering caps on the output of the power supply section are going bad and it's getting some of the high frequency switching noise from the power supply riding out on the output as well.

LOL..... Nice...... Years agoI was ridin' dirt bikes with a friend who hit a tree with the end of the handle bars and it pinched the tip of his pinky clean off.... That was an interesting ride home, lol........

In order to have the same power transfer throughout the circuit you'll need to change all the wire to 8 gauge.

I tried to fix them for ya..... but both pics were the same for some reason...

Wow, that's an ambitious setup for someone who's new to the hobby. With a 1k budget seems that there's not much out of your reach if you're willing to buy used. Sundown 4500 comes to mind first, the new Crescendo's as Stealth mentioned would do well, the owners of the site like the MTX 4k, AudioQue has some decent amps from what I've seen and then there's quite a few people who are liking the Audiopipe AP series amps such as the AP3000. There's so many high powered competition proven amps out there, it's hard for me to come up with a more specific list to help anymore than this, lol. To me you're really just going to have to pick one, lol. I can't imagine having the budget to build a system like the one you're on the way to.

So you guys decided against the NEO motors on the SSD's? That's kewl though, I doubted the SSD's ever needed the change myself. Glad to see they're back!!!

Now we're talkin'... This should really help the DCON notoriety!! I may have found my new low power, high cone area SPL testing project play toy...

How did it fail? I know that not everyone is a grade A carpenter, or at least a box builder, but if one follows some simple guidelines they can usually at least turn out something usable.

Well, there's several vendors on this site alone who build enclosures. Argent Audio comes to mind first, Andrew did a box for my sister's 12" DCON and it was exactly what we ordered. Otherwise there's: Handcrafted Car Audio Audibel Customs Pound that Sound Fisher Customs I'm pretty sure they're all enclosure building vendors.

Yup, I went and found my copy before I posted earlier and couldn't believe I missed that. Nicely distributed advertising for Sundown, even if it's a little small.

Have the flyer, saw the add for the AutoSound Challenge, MISSED the Sundown goodness though!

THAT sounds like a fun lil woofer to play with, at least to me it does.

I agree with all comments above. While I've not had any experience with the 10" DCON, I have played with a 12" and it's hard to describe how much it exceeded my expectations. Same as you I had purchased it for my sister on what I had read, and I had pretty high expectations to start with, but what I heard and felt after we had gotten it installed was greater still. We got it installed on Easter and when I listened to it again a couple of weekends ago after it had gotten broken in was purely amazing. It was hard to believe it could get any lower or louder with only ~300wrms on it, but it did.

When i get the label do i just tape it on the box? and will i have to pay to ship it back? All you'll need to do is tape it to the box. That's what the label is for, they're paying the shipping back.

The port won't care whether it's angled, straight or bent. The things that matter most is that the length is correct for the tuning frequency you want, that there's enough port area to keep from having port noise and that area is consistent throughout the length.

Anytime I've had a cut off more than 1/8" I've scrapped it and cut it again. It's just too hard to do anything about more of a gap than that and make it reliable and trustworthy IMO, but that's just the way I do it and without a table saw too. All you need to make good straight cuts is a circular saw guide, a couple of good straight edge rulers (one long, one short) and a combination square. Those 3 extra tools, along with some patience and good consistency in the way you measure and cut will net great results. My experience has been that the only thing a table saw is actually good for is cutting angles without spending quite a few dollars on a very nice unit that has a good stable fence and is really built well.

Build looks like it's coming along nicely. I think you're going to love that Q.

I wanted to get a set for a friend to try. I tried the promo code at the store and it told me I didn't have the correct item in the cart for that code.

If properly sealed from the trunk, your cabin volume would drop slightly, thus less room to pressurize, more cabin gain, more output I've always read from quite a few people that when they fired forward, they had a little better sq. Oh and your trunk shouldn't flex like a bitch, no nasty annoying ass trunk rattle LOL, beat me to it... yeah, what he said......