altoncustomtech

Just hard to imagine, no more than that car weighs that it could do that damage at <10mph which he claims. 10-15 maybe, 20-25 certainly, but <10 just too hard to imagine...

Just wanted to share these with everyone. My little brother slid on the snow and ice Friday night and hit a curb. Instead of calling me he let the cops call a tow truck and tow it to their garage which wasn't open over the weekend and the car had to sit inside, so he was bummed. Now, for the good part. He has a 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix, a very nice car. He told me when I picked him up Friday that he was only going 5, maybe 10 MPH when he slid into the curb and damaged the car. I'd like your opinions on the speed he was likely going, lol. Sorry for the pic quality, phone camera FTL. Busted the steering knuckle in two, bent the control arm, ripped the CV joint apart, and the front wheel is bent and about 8" of bead was broken off as well (sorry, no pics of that). So, any opinions? LOL

Welcome to the forum!! Lots of good, knowledgeable people here to help with questions and problems.

I have Goodyear Assurance Tripletread's on the van and LOVE them. They offer fantastic traction no matter the road conditions, are 80,000 mile rated tires, not too bad on price and have so far outlasted any tire I've had on the van yet. They've got a little over 50,000 on them now and still have ~half tread, so they're keeping up with their rating so far too.

That's too cool dude, lucky shot there. Something that nice could never happen around here, as a matter of fact the way the judges/cops are around here on the last day like that they'd probably double the fines, the bastards. On another note, these Venture vans are pretty good platforms for systems aren't they? LOL Though it might be more fun just to see the looks on peoples faces when they notice all that is coming from a mini-van.

Well, the cable would do that for you. One end has a 3.5mm (headphone plug) end on it, that would plug into the headphone jack on an MP3 player, Ipod, portable CD player, alarm clock radio, basically anything that is a source other than your HU. The other end of the cable has RCA's on it, that would simply plug into the inputs on the amp.

I would imagine if anything was really really wrong with it would have a protection light lit. It keeps trying to work, almost has to be something wrong with the incoming signal, would you happen to have a 3.5mm to RCA cable that you can plug into an MP3, Ipod, or some other portable device to verify the integrity of the amp?

I have a KDC-X492 in my Jimmy running the PG RSD's in it. I run that thing right up the first hint of distortion and back down a notch on a regular basis and that level is often 28,29,30 or higher depending on the recording level of the material I'm listening to. Not only has it always sounded pretty damn amazing for HU power, it's never done anything like that. I have a KDC-X991 in the van, but everything is externally amplified so comparing to it is no help. I can't imagine any reason why it would do this, except maybe it's driving through a factory amp, damaged that amp and is now causing some sort of short issue. Other than something like that, I dunno without it being the HU itself. Wait for the replacement and see what happens I guess.

They're also built a little differently. *EDIT* I read Maxxsonics went with a semi redesign on the boards and whatnot, along with the cosmetics changes.(easy to read misinformation on forums though) I had a BXi2006D that was a plenty strong amp, a little current hungry, but plenty strong. I'd say just get whichever one fits your budget the best, the 200 watt difference between the two will never be audible.

Thanks man, I've already done the checking up on the time frame for Slamology and not only am I not on call that week or weekend, I have taken Friday and Monday off on vacation in an attempt to make absolutely sure the planning is less likely to fall through. Hopefully, not only will I make Slamology, but some of the other shows planned up there and around as well.

Alas, I was planning on attending.... Until work got in the way. I'm on call that week and weekend and the last I checked Louisville is more than 45 minutes away (which is max response time for callouts) so I'm afraid I'll have to respectfully bow out on it this time. There's always Slamology and plenty of other shows going on I plan on attending, so I'll see you all at another one.

I'm ready NOW.... Let me know when/where to send the monies.....

Here's one pretty decent place to get it, fairly inexpensive as well. All kinds of colors, including pink. Here the same place has braided sleeving.... Better way to go IMHO!!

WHEW!!! Thats good to hear.... tho I have seen this kind of stuff as permanent many times.....

You may need to clean your computers cache or cookies, my shipping price per woofer is $17.49. Something is wrong on your end. No idea what is going on, Jay-cee your amount sound much more accurate. I believe he means that it's $49 total..... $29 for the sub and $20 shipping.....

Thanks!! Afraid not, the sound deadening, component installation, etc. was all done before I was ever worried about posting pics of the builds online. I'm going to have to go in and redo some things when I change out the front components since they're starting to get old, very used and showing it, and I'll definitely have pictures and a build log of that when it's being done.

What you have to understand, is that the design I posted is not going to function as a true horn, period. The waves are so long in the REAL sub bass frequencies as Impious and M5 has stated a couple of times now, that the horn has to be so large in size that it will never fit in a vehicle. As for the guy who's getting ~180db, it takes up pretty much the entire vehicle and is still probably posting those numbers at higher frequencies (~70-80hz). You will go through a LOT of trouble trying to build a "folded" horn design and see no real benefit at all. Sure, you have room for the design I found and posted, but that's money and trouble that you could get more out of spending on a perfectly built and designed ported enclosure and probably get better performance from it.

Thank you! I love the Neutrik's as well, ideal for keeping an enclosure removable in the car environment. Thanks man!!

:lol2: The worst part of it is, if he didn't put any fuses in anywhere (and judging by that move i doubt there are), it could/would actually work like that.

Dunno why it quit working, though it's fixed now. I love all the attention to detail on the install. This is the level of planning and work everyone should look to achieve when doing their wiring and planning for their installations.

WOOHOO!!!!! Road Trip!!! LOL.... All of you be careful, hope you both have a pretty good time while you're working there.

There's only about a million choices out there to fit that bill, lol. I would highly recommend the Fi SSD's, perhaps the X's at 2ohm, lots of people love the SA-10's, a pair of DCONS at 2ohms would be nice too, DC level 2's or 3's, IA 187's. Those would be the first one's on the list that I would personally look at first. A single 12 in the SSD's, SA's, ICON's and other's wouldn't be a bad way to go either but the pair of 10's would yield a fair amount more cone area in about the same enclosure size as one 12 would use so I think a pair of 10's would be the best bet IMHO. There's so many possibilities out there that your budget and preference will be the limiting and deciding factors I think. Just my .02

Welcome to the forum!! The only input I have is what I recommended in the thread on it, good luck and don't forget the build log on it!

First of all, you'll never hear any difference between 500 watts and the 600 watts it would take to give them "full power". Gain matching the amps will be a big deal IF the subs are all sharing the same airspace in the same enclosure. Gain matching isn't too bad to do, just need a test tone CD and a DMM. Both amps must be adjusted together and the output voltage matched with the DMM. Anyway, the notion you need to put full power to a sub is a myth. There's nothing wrong with doing so or even over powering as long as you know what you're doing, head room can be a great thing but it absolutely is not necessary nor recommended in certain applications. It all depends on what the goals and design call for. If your budget and electrical will allow for it, get the 4 and run two of the P1000's you'll be plenty happy. If it would be easier to fit the budget and electrical system with 3 subs and a single P1000 then go that route.

It's just something to check. Factory wiring harnesses are well known for having a multitude of problems, low voltage not being a common one, but it's been seen.