altoncustomtech

That boy's lookin' good there proud daddy... he'll be riding Roxee like a horse before too long... lol

Jared.... I can't wait to see your brother's leg done... That is damn sweet work man....

I was wondering, in the original test I think I remember that RaamMat was your overall winner in the test results. I've learned alot about sound deadening with your answers to other people's questions over time but mostly originally discovered what it was, how it worked and what not from those tests. As a result I used and recommended the RaamMat for quite some time. Recent months have had me questioning it's true nature anyway. I was curious where it stands now. Is it still a worthwhile product, even if a little less effective, or is it like the many other less expensive options out there and not completely unlike the peal 'n seal.

Can't measure ohms while the driver is hooked up to the amp, and especially when you're playing a signal to it. I'd check your input voltage at the amp's terminals and watch it..... almost sounds like the voltage is dropping out on the bigger bass notes. If you see lower 11v... or even into the 10 range you've got a problem with a wire connection on your power or ground wires somewhere I would think...

Lookin' forward to it brother, lookin' forward to it.

That may start tomorrow, I also have an alternator to install. I just hope I don't have any issues with the alternator, it's from DB electrical, 200 amp. I've heard some bad things on this forum about them, but i bought it before I knew there could be potential issues. I guess I'll find out soon enough. Like the enclosure a lot, it looks mean as hell. I do question how well the steel is going to seal to the top and bottom panels of the enclosure, but I figure you have something worked out. Otherwise, my first HO alty was a DB electrical 250 amp. Aside from the voltage regulator being a little slow to compensate it seemed to work pretty decent. It at the very least made a good deal more output than the factory 140 amp that came on the van, but I didn't own a clamp on meter to test it with before I had to replace it. I would imagine I would still be using it if a bad battery hadn't burnt it up.

Don, that is a fantastic write up. I enjoyed reading it.

Fantastic, thanks guys. Just another item on the list of reasons why this forum is at the top of my list!

hey Alton, Regina and I are going down to buy a meter from Shizzzon this weekend...... chop Hell yeah, that will be too sweet. Too bad I'm so far out of the way between Indy and Louisville, would love to meet you guys. It will be going on pretty much all day, signup starts at 9am and the judging for the show and prizes will start around 10am and prizes to be handed out around 1pm but everyone hangs around there almost all day long cuz cars are always coming in late just to attend instead of being judged.

Nice grab chop, this thing will be sweet I can tell, I'm psycho.... wait... I mean psychic...... lol Looking forward to seein' this baby in action soon...

Happens to me all the time.... glad to know I'm not the only one....

The Kenwood would be my choice as well, though u must consider I have a KDC-X991 and a KDC-X492 so I may be a little biased. The Kenwood's have excellent crossover and EQ controls and the higher voltage pre-outs are great to have as well. Good clean output and the ability to turn off the internal amplifier and dead head it if you plan on using all external amplification is another nice function.

Sounds like you may have blown a fuse, check them. The sub amp won't come on if there's no power on the remote wire and it sounds like nothing has power, and since you are using the ACC wire for the HU to remote the amps it just about HAS to be a blown fuse.

Just about any kind of expanding foam will do. After you put the foam in and it's fully cured take that sander with some 40 or 60 sand paper and shape the foam down. Once that's done, get a small can of fiberglass resin and coat the wood and foam after you tape off the area, then just paint it all to match the door and that will get you lookin' decent without too much trouble.

X2.... unlike a computer there's nothing inside an amplifier that is affected by magnetism...

Have you tried contacting anyone at Alpine? They could have it archived somewhere, surely someone has been there long enough to remember it and maybe still have access to a copy.

Or you could simply save $100, not buy that, and just set the amplifiers settings to match X2 Since you already own an o'scope then matching the amps will be relatively easy. I think you'll appreciate the results of running both the amps at 2 ohms rather than a single one at 1 ohm as well, and you'll LOVE that Q.

should be just fine.... the amp is rated 1750 @ 2ohms.... will move that BTL very nicely... and give you good room to upgrade into later....

That would be completely install and vehicle dependent. It's been my experience that in most cases the more music you think you hear outside the vehicle the more panel resonance and vibration you have. A lot and I mean A LOT of the kids around here think that the louder the car rattles, vibrates and sounds like it's coming apart the louder the system is. So much so that I've seen a few kids purposely loosen things to make more rattle. (NO KIDDING) Honestly though, you really don't want to be heard real easy anyway. All you're doing is alerting the nearest thieves that you have audio equipment for them to steal, or the nearest officer with nothing to do that he has a ticket to write. The other downside to being able to hear the bass very well OUTSIDE the vehicle is that you give a worse reputation to an already troubled hobby. There's plenty of people out there who really don't want to listen to your music. They're busy trying to listen to their own music, talk on the phone or watch television depending on where you're blasting your music. Don't worry about how loud your buddies JL is outside the car. Worry instead about how loud you and him can get on a meter, that's the true measure. If you both get metered and he's louder, then come back and tell us, more can be done to help you with that issue and people will be more likely to help out.

Thanks man, it took too long to get it done, but it's been well worth the wait. The Q's sound absolutely amazing. Thanks!! Thank you. Thought about the LED's and had made plans to put some in originally. Ended up not going with it mainly because I had too much going on when I was trying to get this finished so I just scrapped the idea. I could very well be adding them in the future though, thought about a black light type LED on that orange even. lol, yeah he was lovin' the box. As a matter of fact after the subs were installed in it I put it aside in the living room to work on and finish the amp rack and he ventured his merry little self in and out of there on a regular basis. Found him sleeping in it several times. Guarantee he wouldn't stay in there now while they're playing though!!!! LOL

Wow, $180. For that price or close to it you could probably have bought a very nice custom built enclosure from any of the fabricators on here. I would suggest, if you can live without bass for a little while, selling the box you have now to recoupe some of your money in it, put that with the money you were planning on spending on a new enclosure and buying an enclosure from Khaotic, Argent or any one of those and you'll be much better off. Building your own is a good experience, but without some basic fabrication experience and some decent tools it's harder to build something that will last with what you have. Sell the box you have and buy a good custom built one is my recommendation to you.

This will hopefully lighten the load a little for you guys with regard to people asking questions about enclosures all the time. Nice work guys, and thanks JBLCAMRY for your participation in this.

I concur, the sub section is a must. A central location for all threads sound deadening related would be the best way to go. Nothing wrong with a brand specific section, but a general one would alleviate any brand hierarchy or favoritism and make it much easier for people to ask about information on new brands or one's that aren't often used or mentioned. I vote YES.

There are some interesting cars every year. One of the things that helps is that there's a fresh batch of students coming in all the time and some of them have some pretty incredible cars. At a show a few years ago a guy took me for a ride in his very well modded WRX and it was a blast. First time I've ever ridden in an all wheel drive car that felt like it was on ice when it took off with all 4 tires spinning. Then there was the kid with an S10 that had bucket seats and the most insane fiberglass enclosure I've ever seen with 3 15" Rockford subs molded into it pointing different directions. He drove around with his arm resting on the magnet all the time. So, yeah, there's some pretty interesting cars and always something fun going on. If you're available you should definitely come on down, and yeah it will be a little cool but it shouldn't be too bad that early in November.

ID CTX65CS would be a recommendable set for that budget. Lots of good comments and reviews on them available here and elsewhere. I've heard good things about the new Crescendo components, a less expensive option. With a $200-$300 budget there's quite a few sets that can come into play from companies like CDT, Focal, Morel and possibly Rainbow to name a few. :EDIT: Forgot to mention, there's Bravox, and they're sold right here on SSA too! Give us your listening preferences and more detail on the goal and more recommendations can be made. The thing about components is that what sounds good to me, what sounds good to you, and what sounds good to someone else can be at opposite ends of the spectrum. Best thing to do is try to find what gets recommended at a local shop and give them a listen in person. That can give you at least some idea as whether or not they suit your listening tastes.