altoncustomtech

to the forum!!

You should be proud, you've done really well with it. As for the deadener, it's a lesson learned. I would highly suggest reading up on SoundDeadenerShowdown.com as well. You'll learn a lot more about sound deadening in it's entirety and be introduced to another really good line of products as well. There's nothing wrong with anything I've used from SecondSkin but Don at SDS has about the most thorough knowledge on the subject and best customer service anyone could ask for. How many business owners do you know of that would only suggest selling you nothing more than what you NEED.

Wonderful build. Very well done.

Out of idle curiosity, why do you say that's the worst decision you ever made? Otherwise, carry on.

to the forum! That's a damn nice build for a "limited" budget, lol.

I have a 250A Singer in the Jimmy. Now I've not had the truck running and the sub and sub amp running at the same time to really see it's potential but I agree, he's fast and the prices aren't bad either.

Those are absolute beauties!!

to the forum!!

Nice looking subie for sure!!

I picked up a pair of these for a friend a few years ago and they were fantastic performers too. Seems like these particular models, IIRC, were rated at 250 wrms but otherwise spec'd out very closely to X series before the upgrades. The buddy I helped to get these was running them bridged on an SAX-100.2 and boy did they ever put in work for a pair of modest little 10's. Fi would definitely have all the details, or should have them available. If it were me and the price was right I wouldn't hesitate.

Sorry man, I'm hardly ever even on FB. I'd have caught a PM here a lot faster since I practically live here part time, lol. I'm reading and responding to your FB message now.

Yes each side will equal the 30" length. I've also found that adding the width of the split to the length helps to ensure tuning is where it's supposed to be. So with your example you would add 3" to the 30" length making a total length of 33" to keep the tuning on par. On Torres calculate it like you would for a standard slot port that's on the side. EDIT: I think I get the dilemma in your question now. The calculation is still for the 30" total length. I'll find one that I drew up and toss it up for an example.

Aside from having nothing to do with a stereo system it's pretty cool. Spare tire blew.

to the forum!

It's definitely not a rule of thumb. The best calculator for port area was put up and made by a member on here, however I won't use the site anymore as it has numerous warnings from Chrome and my Anti-Virus/Malware/Spyware scanners telling me the site is a problem. The one on Carstereo.com is better than nothing or if you're not shy about doing some math the actual T/S formulas are out there. I tried doing a search and couldn't find anything but simple calculators, not nearly as accurate at the one that I can't use anymore, lol. EDIT: Found the actual formula's HERE. The formula's calculate minimum diameter in centimeters. A little more math and you can convert it to inches, then figure the cross sectional area to know what size the slot needs to be. Again, got to not be shy about the math, lol.

Nothing wrong with making it hard to steal and all the above ideas are great. Keep in mind though that a lot of thieves are fucking vindictive and when they can't get the shit out they may start destroying everything they can get to. It's happened that way to a few different people I've known over the years. It sucks having to pay the extra money but insuring the equipment itself (given your insurance company will do so, seems not many will) is the only way to make sure you don't lose big time if they get pissed because they can't steal it.

to the forum!

Maybe not right now, but some more time and experience and you can get it. Plus with all the members that live up in your neck of the woods there's bound to be someone local that's willing to help out as well. Hell I'd be more than glad to help myself, the only problem is that I'm about a 2.5 hour drive away from Indy.

Hell yeah, welcome to the IAK family brother!

That enclosure is also only 1.37 NET not counting the displacement of the sub at .15cuft. The total enclosure NET volume after the sub is installed will only be 1.22 cuft which falls just short of the recommended minimum FWIW. Are those dimensions the largest you can physically fit in the space you have? If not then it wouldn't hurt to try to get a little larger volume and possibly even a little more port area. To be sure you don't have to worry about port noise being an issue you should have in the neighborhood of 40 sq.in. of port area for the sub.

to the forum fellow Hoosier! Where abouts in the great state of Indiana are you located? This is a question that comes up A LOT and you'll get a ton of answers and opinions on what to do. As for which speakers, you should try to demo as many as you can. If you live in the middle of BFE like I do that 's not really an option and it will leave you having to trust the reviews and opinions of others. As for the installation itself, there's plenty that can be done to get the most out of a set of speakers and the factory locations. Custom baffles behind the door panel, a good sound deadening application, even things like building a plate to angle mount the tweeters beneath the factory grille on the dash to keep the factory look. If you would like a tinker tuner friendly DDIN HU take a look at the Clarion NX702. It has a host of crossover, EQ and DTA adjustments and is one of the few fully active capable DDIN HU's on the market. It's not currently being produced anymore but it can still be found all over the interwebz. $300 is a fantastic budget for a set of components IMO. It opens up the chance to get some very nice sets.

Happy Birthday Brother!!

I think that at higher frequencies it would be about the transfer of energy from one molecule to another at that scale (as far as feeling/knowing the air is moving), but not with sub bass frequencies. When someone is demoing a big system and it's doing hair tricks and the like what's moving if it's not the air? It's not continuous movement as the argument about a vacuum has been stated but when the pressure inside the enclosure is lower than outside the enclosure that lower pressure is by definition a vacuum and the air at the higher atmospheric pressure outside the enclosure is going to move into the enclosure even if it's only for the split second. The opposite will happen when the cone of the driver moves on the rearward stroke and pressurizes the air inside the enclosure. I just have a hard time understanding the purpose behind the debate at this point. Sure, the molecules get excited and transfer the energy from one to the other. That excitement means they're moving into each other. They are air molecules right? So I'm still not understanding how the air isn't moving. Albeit in very small amounts (compared to wind or a vacuum), bidirectionally, and at high speeds. If the air didn't move how would the smoke rings in be possible? The very science behind that phenomena is that the air is directed through the hole causing a vortex. It's a drum, the sound of which we hear is no different than the sound the driver reproduces. If the air didn't move it couldn't create the vortex to make the smoke ring.Okay, that's it. I'm done with this thread. Vacuum - as defined by the dictionary, "an enclosed space from which matter, especially air, has been partially removed so that the matter or gas remaining in the space exerts less pressure than the atmosphere (opposed to plenum )."

While I do love SSA and all the drivers I've experienced (DCON, ICON & XCON) I would have to admit that if I were looking at getting a new 15" driver and was considering something different I would definitely have to give a DSS Ethos a shot.

I have to take the 0g wire I have going to the amp powering my mids out and connect another 0g to it so it reaches the second battery. No. Don't. If the wire isn't long enough get another length of wire. Splices are not a good practice on wire that size and in a circuit that carries this much current. Even a small amount of resistance in the splice connection will lead to heat at the connection point where the resistance exists. That heat can cause a connection failure and that in turn can cause a fire. Wire isn't so expensive that something like this would ever be necessary, ever.