altoncustomtech

to the forum!! This is definitely the place to learn.

Glad you like it. Here's the cutsheet. Let me know if there's anything else you need for it.

In that case, take a look at this. It's a no fills enclosure. There's no double baffle on it and I've not drawn in any kind of bracing. There's a little extra internal volume for some 1.5" dowels rods if you want to use them, otherwise it's just a basic box. 34" W x 14" H x 23.25" D and is 3.5cuft NET tuned to 32hz with 56.25sqin of port area. See what you think and if there's any changes that need made we'll get you something finalized once you're happy with it and I'll post up the cutsheets with it.

Same way you already have. Post up the question and see what kinds of answers you get. No one who's posted in the other thread has mentioned anything about orientation for that car. I would guess port and subs forward myself.

I understand, it's no problem. We just need someone to verify the best orientation for the car and I can get it ready for you.

I've got the one I mentioned in your other thread already designed. I just needed confirmation on what orientation is optimal for the car before drawing it up and getting if and the cut sheet posted up for you. You said the measurements I posted would fit, so I think that's all I need.

TMI

I didn't mean to offend on the measurements. It's easy, especially for someone who's new to this, to miss humps, contours, changes in angles, changes in height, width, etc. Hell, I can guarantee you that people who've been doing this for years occasionally do it. I know I did on the first few designs for the amp rack for my Jimmy, which is why it changed design three times before the final one worked. On the last one I spent time taking measurements and cutting cardboard templates to ensure what I measured would fit. Even if your measurements are a little off, there's still PLENTY of room to work with, especially for two 12's. I'm with Rick on their enclosure they have posted up, it's just a bit too small. It's common for big box manufacturers to post up smaller than optimal enclosure sizes so help the uneducated masses feel at ease about the space they'll loose to the enclosure. I'm drawing up a 3.5cuft enclosure, 34" W x 14" H x 23.25" D, tuned to 32hz with a little more than 56sqin of port area (4.5" x 12.5"). That should let the subs breathe much better and have little to no port noise. JL's design would have idiotic amounts of port noise.

Damn, if those measurement are accurate you've got PLENTY of room for two 12's ported. Even if they're not you should have room. I'm not familiar with what orientation works best for these cars, but if we can get a bit more info I'd be glad to help draw you something up.

Just sent my request to join.

Yeah the guy selling it didn't really know what he had. I'll definitely post up my thoughts.

That's kewl, thanks man. I was pretty certain it's not continuously variable, THAT would particularly rare, unusual, and hard to implement I would think. Now I just got to get it, play with it a little on the bench, and see if I want to use it or go ahead and order the 996.

As the title states, I've got one of these HU's coming. It's BNIB, never used, never opened. It wasn't really a planned purchase, the seller posted it up on EBAY and when I threw in my max bid it was at $32. After a few other bids went on it It came to $104.50 and that's what I won it at! Pretty damn decent deal IMHO. That brings me to the point of my thread. Anyone have any experience with the EQ settings on this unit? It has a plethora of crossover, DTA, and EQ settings, but it's only a 5 band parametric EQ. The question I'm trying to answer is, what frequencies can you select for each of the bands? The book only says 20hz - 20khz. Most list the frequencies such as: Band 1 40/50/60/80/100/120, for example, this one doesn't. I was planning on, and still may be planning on, getting a Kenwood KDC-X996 for the Jimmy. It'll be plug and play with MUCH better features than the X492 that's in it now. If I don't use the Clarion in my Jimmy it will be going into the Blazer project.

Have a Sundown SAE-1200 for $150+shipping.

to the forum!! There's a lot of great products available out there without having to spend a ton of money, especially with subs. Not sure what your goals are, but rest assured you're in good hands here! There's loads of great information, builds and great used and new items for sale on the forum. Not to mention some of the nicest and most knowledgeable members to be found anywhere.

Well, soon didn't work into the equation, but it's done. The original design includes extra space for some bracing such as 1.25" dowel rods and with panels this wide you should definitely put some in. If you want to do something different like a hidden double baffle, window style bracing, or anything of the like just let me know. You've got enough space to do just about anything you want to. Here's the cutsheet:

Sure wish I had a use for these. for a great seller and great products!

Considering the sub displacement is .14cuft the 1.25cuft enclosure would NET 1.11cuft once the sub was installed which is pretty much right on target. Besides I don't see 5 hundredths or even a full 1 tenth of a cuft making any noticeable difference.

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you on this yet. Work has been exhaustingly busy the last few days. I'm working on it for you right now and I'll have you a cutsheet up here real soon.

Forgot to get on here and let you know the amp came Tuesday in perfect condition. Thanks again!!

to the forum and back to the game.

You've already got a PM on it.

Why do you have a smaller ground wire than your power wire? The same amount of current that flows through the positive wire flows through the negative wire. The ground wire should always be as short as possible and at least the same size at the positive wire. Don't get confused by terminology when talking charging systems. A standard 12v system should charge in the 14.4v neighborhood. While you can build a 14v standard electrical system it will charge at about 16 volts which will fry the car's and auxilary (like the HU) electronics. 130 amps is still light for a 1500 watt amp, too light for my tastes. You'd have less issues with your lights dimming and such running the new amp at 2 ohms and those subs will still get plenty loud. Aside from that none of those subs will last long on 1500 watts of power. That's more than double the rated power for most of them. Of course you could look at the higher powered subs but they'll cost more money and then you'll still have big issues with dimming and low voltage. Capacitor's will not help anything at all and in many cases will just make the low voltage problems even worse. Having the big 3 done in 4awg is fine for that size alternator. You should really make your ground wire 4awg as well. The dimming/low voltage issues and that small ground likely played a part in the very probable severe distortion that has damaged that CVR. Are you using any bass boost? I would definitely call Those problems and using any bass boost at all the culprit behind the CVR's failure.

The CarStereo.com calculator seems to be a little on the light side compared to Vance Dickason's formula. I got the same 84+ from the CarStereo.com site but 144+ from the Cookbook formula. As I was running the numbers I figured the ~109 I used was plenty adequate.

Actually, between the two most popular sites with minimum port area calculators on them the port area on this enclosure is just a little more than was figured on one and a little less than the other. I figured it was adequate.