crazytexan

hate to disagree there. A good install I believe is nothing without a nice driver to go along. Agree to disagree, simply. Thanks buddy. I can never have to time back that I spent to read this idiotic comment. *waves at the 30 seconds I lost to this guy*

Pretty sure it's BJ Fisher, if I am not mistaken

Woohoo! Got my confirmation this morning! Excited for teh wattage!!

x2, big ol' box for 2 18 MJs in a mini van would be cheap and be loud enough for him

hdrox88: experience was good. shipping was good. overall satisfaction with product. would deal again

Yes, gain matching is making sure that both amps are set at the same amount of output. This is not as simple as eyeballing where the gains are because each amp may produce a different amount of power at it's current power. This process needs to be done correctly with the right tools.

I'd recommend investing in some sound deadening equipment. It makes a huge difference in road noise. Just a suggestion.

x2. The major factor on how loud a driver can preform is based on the installation . Both are quality speakers. Put them in there recommended home built correctly and they will both celebrate in loudness.

If you are smart and are able to set your gains in an educated manner you will be able to run an amp per sub. A question though, what kind of electrical are you running, will you be able to run a continuous 3kW+? You will also need to be able to gain match the two amps. I'll let one of the trusted gurus comment further.

I agree, I am partial to Google. Maybe I haven't tried Bing enpough but the one time I did it didn't seem as attractive. Oh well we will see which stock runs best at the end

i currently have a first gen IPod (U2 edition 20GB) and I've had this piece for over 4 years in the car glovebox connected to my deck. I sold my 30gb video when I bought my IPod Touch. The touch is amazing, so many games, applications, and like another person said "it's another computer". I love it and haven't had any problems with all the IPods I have owned.

That is a very sexy and beautiful automobile. I couldn't imagine driving one!

Expect a preorder from me tomorrow!

I've never used aeroports but if my math serves me right an aero port that H2.5" x W2.5" x L17" and the box is H12" x W20" x D12" the port would run along the back of the box firing to a side I get running numbers of: Total air space = 1.19ft ^3 Port Volume = 0.16ft^3 Port Area = 11-15in^2 Port Area = 6.35in^2 Net Air Space for Chamber = .94ft^3 Tuning Freq = 30.60 Hz This is using 3/4" mdf Someone correct if I am wrong, please.

Woot! Awesome deal. Just curious though, does it have 0 ga or 4 ga terminals? $250 for 1500 watts!?

You should be worried about a 15 unless you are trying to build your own box in your trunk. Are those measurements clean? Or are there obstructions in the area (i.e. wheel wheels, anything to obscure the straight measurement)? With those measurements you have around 12-13 ft ^3. I'd recommend Eclipse, Alpine, or Pioneer head units but remember this is opinionated (Pioneer is nice but can be temper mental). Are you building this box? Amp is as well opinionated. At this forum you will more than likely be recommended a Sundown Audio amp, which is what I would recommend. SAZ-1500d or SAZ-2000d are very nice choices. However, since the woofer is a 1 ohm (if you still plan on that 18) you will need an amp that will produce its power @ 2 ohms, so Sundown may not be your choice. Depending on how experienced you are with tuning and setting amplifiers it could be either. What sort of electrical upgrades do you have planned for the car? Big 3? Secondary battery? etc. We need additional information before help can be provided. Edit: by BT18 I thought you meant BTL not BL. For a BL I would recommend a SAZ-1000d. A SAZ-2000d will put out 1000w @ 2 ohm which is what your looking for.

Kinetik HC 2400 ... batcaps are normally used for burps or quick power unloads.

I really appreciate your input. With 29" it has breathing room. I will no longer have a 7 seated vehicle

Well, I have about 2-3 inches more in width I can work with, and another 3 inches in depth to adjust my numbers. Also, I don't "need" to stay below window line but it would be preferred.

Well I am looking to take advantage of the amazing deal for a free enclosure with the purchase of a subwoofer. I have been looking at getting an Incriminator Audio Death Row 18" subwoofer to be housed in the back of my 2002 Ford Explorer XLT. Seeing the recommendations of a box is: # 18" DVC1 & DVC2 ohm # Sealed Not Recommended # Ported 5.0 cubes - 8.0 cubes, 60 - 120 Inches of Port, 32-37 Hz # Average: 6.5 cubes, 90 inches, 32-37 Hz The current max dimensions in my rear of the SUV I have 16" in Height (looking to stay below window line) x 38" in Wide x 26 in" Deep. With these measurements it leaves me with an area that is 7.50 ft ^ 3 so I have a little wiggle room since recommended is 6.5 ft ^3 and I would like to tune to 32hz. I figured this will leave room for brace displacement in box? Not 100% I'm not the fabricator. I was interested in a design where the sub facing up and port back to the tailgate hatch. I was also looking to have the enclosure wrapped in charcoal colored carpet (AM8). I know the subwoofer purchased from you in $379+shipping then I'm looking at + shipping for the (large) box. I was wondering if I could get price quoted out-the-door shipped to 85755 box and subwoofer. I will be calling you this week as he sale ends this week to work out everything.

Alright, should be a fun show. I'm leaving now to head up there, I'll be looking for some SSA action lol! GL to everyone running today!

IMO I'd use 0 gauge, then either trim it at the amp or put a distro block VERY close to amp to step it down to 4. If you decide to use a bigger amp later then you already have your wire and wouldnt have to buy more stuff saving you $ in the long run, plus your wire can never be too big, or @ least thats what she said muhahahaha. seriously tho when it comes to wire there is no such thing as over kill I knew that there is no overkill with wire but I wasn't thinking completely. Thank you on the reassurance and the mentioning of a bigger amp later on I totally didn't think about that . Plus, that is very valid, wire it once so I don't have to do it again . Thanks again for the quick response!

Alright, I plan on running 1100w-1200w RMS to an 18" woofer so I am torn between all 0 Ga wiring or using a 4 Ga amplifier wiring kit. The 4 Ga kit I'm looking at it rated for 1400w but I think 0 Ga would be better. Also, the amplifier I plan on using only has 4 Ga terminals for power and ground - would it be safe to trim down the 0 Ga and put them in 4 Ga terminals if I were to use 0 Ga? Amp is: JBL GTO 1201.1II - 1114w RMS at 2 ohms Woofer is: IA DR 18" D1 Thanks in advance! -John

Welcome.

I think he means run 1 amp to each voice coil node so he wants to run 2 amps.... combined its 2400watts of power and btl's have been seen running much higher. I don't know if I would trust it but it is more than likely possible.