///M5

Sweet. One comment though, flush mount please

Huh? Grow up. Earned yourself your last warning and a bit of vacation. Not quite sure how you went from my post to me being a douche other than the fact that you obviously hate me and everything I type. Stop taking things personally and move on forward otherwise you won't have the choice.

He's brought it here before, but obviously needed a real answer. VJ full means no crossover 99.999% of the time.

Snow?

Kenwood Tape Player, 2x20 Kenwood amp, and a truck box in the trunk of my car. Crap ass piezo bullets that were piercing which was convenient since that was the only way the treble came through into the cab. Sure beat the 8 track and mono-front speaker it replaced but I didn't keep it all that long either. *and of course I wouldn't consider this a system but it was my first car audio setup that wasn't stock

You can make an "aero" port out of a slot. Just requires some kerfs

I can't link to the CA post for some reason, but I bet they are just misquoting Neil. It isn't that you can use 56% of the area, but that the velocity is 56% less. (amusingly 6.67m/s is more than 56% less than 15m/s)

Pretty different subs. Depends a lot on your goals. As an aside, matching an amp isn't a reason why I'd ever lean towards one or the other, but in application there will be a difference. Picking based on Xmax doesn't make sense either...

Hmm, I didn't know that. Good info to have. Actually not really good info to have unless clarified. You'd be shocked at how many amplifiers on the market are bulit that way, hell you'd be shocked alone at what percentage of the car audio amplifiers out there were designed by about 5 different people. Most internet companies just cheapen these designs up by utilizing sub par part parts to come in at a price point to sell. Those amps regularly have some forum boner noob following when they come out, but after a while people realize what is actually going on. The Sundowns are not designed per se by Jacob, but they are built to his specifications. I'd MUCH rather have the same design built with good parts versus something built with inferior parts. The quality of the build also is a HUGE influence on the end quality of the amplifier. In the case of Sundown again he picked a good build house to do business with.

Cover up one hole and put a port in it. 2cuft is near perfect for a single 12 once you put a decent size port in the box. 1cuft NET and that it is on the minimum spectra, you have to account for the driver and the ones with big motors take up even more space. I would also never recommend the minimum enclosure size in particular for your listening tastes.

Forum boner is a rather common term, I am sorry that it frustrates you so much. As for the box, followed the lovely AQ specs...which are absurd, but of course they have to be considering the T/S of the sub.

For your needs it will sound great. You are misreading posts. It would be a mistake if you bought the Q, you are much better suited to the BL. You will think its the best sounding sub you've ever heard once installed.

in the alley under my new box

Gee, real easy to help when you don't post ANYTHING about the size of the sub... If you haven't already bought them, DON'T, you are WAY to jumping the gun and there are a ton of better solutions for your needs...although hearing your needs would help.

Again, not audible...but the box will be weaker. Others may come on and say differently, but I guarantee they are doing so out of propaganda and haven't tested it...and in general will have a rather limited idea of materials and material testing. Always an amusing conversation to me, but nonetheless if its already done then so be it, don't worry about it, but if your goals aren't competing to the nth degree don't bother to do it again.

The opposite, peakier sound. Either way, it won't be audible to your ears. Measurable perhaps, but no audible. Completely the wrong idea unless you are chasing tenths on a meter and then only perhaps helpful, could be the opposite.

Won't be smoother, won't be warmer, just perhaps louder. Either way it won't be an audible difference.

beat you to it

top

Can't wait to get home. Hope we have some snow, the Poo needs to burn some gas.

If you want to build things Heavy Duty then fiberglass isn't the solution, but bracing is. Look up the matrix bracing on B&W's speakers and see how it should be done if you are truly into overboard mode. Resin will weaken mdf, not strengthen it. It will help you get louder perhaps, but regularly an unbraced floppy box is louder than a well built one from an SPL perspective.

Going to have to find a serious Nissan fan and supply them with backspacing and offset as well otherwise they still won't be able to help. I hope you are doing brakes too. The stockers won't cut it with that much rolling mass.

10ths on a meter, nothing really audible. It won't help with much of the above and if by fiberglass you mean resin alone it will actually make the mdf weaker. If you mean glass, well then you should reinforce it as glass isn't particularly great in flat areas. Doing that though will knock the 10ths off from above. If you aren't competing or aren't worth building a few different boxes to play around I wouldn't bother.

Cone size is your friend. What is the biggest box you can fit? Really can't recommend jack without knowing...

I give up. You haven't bothered to EVER answer any of my questions so I could help and want me too? Oh well, your loss. I'm done with your thread. Be damned.