///M5

Not at the moment? They want you to waste your money in the future now?

Then you better have doors that look like Dave Brook's

you fail, miserably. Cap = useless 8ga wire and 2000w amp = wrong big 3 question, use the search function once in your life please hifonics

why should you consider putting anything in the back? It won't add any volume and will ruin your stage.

i dont think he is going for true sq but more towards great sounding bass thatll get decently loud. I guess I'm not quite sure what "true SQ" is then. My goal with the small box was for a good "tight" sub to compliment my front components. I didn't think I would need anything larger than a 10" sub to accomplish this. I'm more concerned with accurate reproduction as opposed to sheer volume. Yes I may play it loud from time to time and want it clear at those times also. Everyone likes to crank up their favorite song, I just want it to sound good when I do. That is SQ...depending on what you mean by loud, as long as it is still blended with the front stage. As for your other question, more headroom is pretty much always better.

If you want to run ported, sell the w6 and do something else. That sub really, really likes sealed boxes.

Be honest with yourself, which one do you want more? Bro you have too pick 1 or the other SQ or SPL !!! there about to go off on the SPL sucks rant !!! SQ guys dont believe a sub can be Loud & sound Good... Bullshit, no one EVER said a sub can't be loud and sound good. Your comprehension is severely lacking. What has been said is that they are opposite installs. If you want an SQ install, by default your sub CAN'T be loud. What the OP wants here is a loud sub that doesn't sound like crap. Considering it is the box that defines this, as long as the install is up to par he should be fine. A BL will be good enough, but not enough power so I'd stick with an SSD or an Icon.

New Scion Tc stupid, its new and a HUGE waste of money Used 2008 Altima Coupe way too new, you will lose your ass Used Mazda 6 if its older why not Used VW GLI Why the GLI, get something a bit older and more fun and the biggie... Used Chrysler Crossfire if the price is right I think you are nuts. A $20k car is $500/month + gas & insurance. 30mi each way is nothing (60mi * 180 days= 10800mi/yr + some extra personal) so you really shouldn't be looking at things so new. If you want to throw away 30% of the purchase price of the car go ahead, but considering you are in school and your disposable income is limited because of it you should really use your money for something else. Personally if I were you, I'd be looking for something that is fully loaded, 5 years old and has around 75k mi on it. Drive it for school and when you are done by a real car. Throwing away money you don't have is crazy. I realize I am a cheap ass, to put things in perspective I haven't ever paid more than 4 months worth of my current house payments for a car. Not for the M, not for the Audi, not for my truck. Obviously I "could" spend more, but from a financial perspective it is asinine. Just my $.02

nice work on the caddy and happy birthday ryan

I don't agree with either of those statements. Me neither

Sounds about right ... But, d*mn, I'd hate to be putting $2000/month into my mortgage ... I've been analyzing this kind of stuff lately quite a bit. Typically, with 20% down, you end up paying twice as much over the course of the loan than you originally bought it for in a 30 year loan. In a 15 year loan, it's about 1.5 as much. So you think well, why don't I just save it all up and buy it in one fell swoop? According to my calculations, after you pay an average amount of rent over 30 years, you'll end up with about the same amount of money into it (rent + savings invested at a decent rate) as if you had bought the house and made payments. Either way, you have a house after 30 years. The problem, though, is that the same house will likely not be the same price in 30 years. It may be twice as much (or more) by itself without even adding in the rent you paid over that time. So in the end, it is actually better to buy the house and make payments in most cases. But yeah, it sucks that everybody says that a house is normally the best investment, but yet if it doesn't appreciate in value quite a bit and depending on where you are on your loan, you may not be ahead for 20+ years. But also remember that you don't have to make the minimum payments on your house. I, for one, plan to try and pay it off as early as possible. Even just sneaking an extra 100 per month into the principal can make a sizable difference. In 30 years it will be WAY more than double the price. My old house tripled in price in 8 years.

Sounds about right ... But, d*mn, I'd hate to be putting $2000/month into my mortgage ... You'd really hate mine then, I'd frickin' love it if it were only $2k and I put nearly 40% down

8.5 is a serious joke. You should be able to buy a 250k house for less than 1500/mo with all other shit included

rates dropped to 5.5 today...

And you think CEA compliance means something? That requirement is a huge joke as well.

To clarify, I don't think using a 1000w amp is ridiculous as headroom is nice but actually using the power wouldn't be possible if you are truly after SQ.

Not sure I agree. Obviously don't over-fuse the wire, but other than that the smaller the fuse the easier it will be to blow which of course is the purpose of having one in the first place. With idiots of course it might be safer to say fuse the wire, but really the magic spot is somewhere in the middle. Although it probably doesn't make any difference in a daily system, a smaller fuse will have higher resistance and therefore less voltage to the amp. I don't put my fuses right at the edge of the wire's current capacity, but like the next step smaller. Voltage drop isn't something that I am personally worried about with fusing, but having the fuse do its job. Obviously severly undersizing it would be dumb as well though. I like to look at both values and pick the cheapest option somewhere in the middle.

Unless you are throwing ridiculous power at that thing, I'd make the .35 box bigger. Closer to the .6 rec'd size... Ficar lists .2 to .6 cuft for the Q10 in a sealed configuration. I wasn't sure which way to go so I e-mailed them. Scott recomended .35 cuft net with .25 lbs of polyfill for some reason for SQ. I'll have 1000 watts available. Does that sound about right? 1000w is near ridiculous power...if you are truly after an SQ setup you can leave your gains on off in which case I'd go bigger with the box, but taking Scott's recommendation is logical as I have not played with that 10. Also, the polyfill will help. What am I saying? If you are going to gain up the amp keep it that size.

Not sure I agree. Obviously don't over-fuse the wire, but other than that the smaller the fuse the easier it will be to blow which of course is the purpose of having one in the first place. With idiots of course it might be safer to say fuse the wire, but really the magic spot is somewhere in the middle.

Is it still going to be practical for you a few years down the road? if i end up becoming a potential father my biggest concern is where to hide the gfs body, not where to put a carseat Good man. Nice little cars though. 215hp in that thing is enough to get it going. I drove one while I was at the Chrysler/Dodge lot and naturally found it a little cramped. They had a used one there ... '07 with 16,000 kilometers in mint condition priced right around $17,500 before negotiating. I put one on once and decided it wasn't worth a drive around the block bent over in half, but considering that won't be your issue the only thing I'd worry about is long term reliability (I know nothing of it, but the net can help you with that one).

Happy Birthday, although where I am at it is already a belated one

Unless you are throwing ridiculous power at that thing, I'd make the .35 box bigger. Closer to the .6 rec'd size...

Interstate makes great batteries, I personally would run with it. How much power are you going to be running?

From that statement I am not so sure that IB is for you. Whenever anyone uses the word bump or SPL it is really the complete opposite of what you asked for earlier in the sentence. Expect a lot less output capability from a sub mounted IB versus a conventional box.

only passable? you are way to close to NY to not be able to get a good one Oh, I know, the best I've had were in NYC...but that's an 8 hour drive from here...not really "way too close" Even Philly is a pretty good hike from here. we have good ones in MN and are really way not close