///M5

Easy. The only solution for that is Alpine with the H701 combo.

Generically speaking in a car, it is a good recommendation to run IB for your mids unless you really know what you are doing.

If 2.1cuft is actually optimal just ignore BBP as it isn't modelling that driver right for your application. Building a box to 2.1cuft is pretty easy. 2.1cuft (1728cuin/cuft) = 3628.8cuin is what the internal after bracing and subwoofer volume needs to be. Pick your two limiting sides and then bulid the third dimension of the box to take up that space.

Weclome

These are the quietest fans you can buy (note: my info is three years old so things may have changed, but they are really quiet).

more data less wank

Don't they charge in like 10minutes?

mmh?

hadn't seen that one yet

If you go the active route you are either going to need crossovers in your headunit (preferred) which currently you don't have or an amp that is capable of crossing over the drivers. The one bit of info you left out was what amplifier you were using for the front stage. You are most definitely correct in not needing any rears in your truck. As for the speaker mounting locations in a NBS the stock locations are just fine. I would encourage you to not use the pillars as they aren't anywhere near optimal and having the tweeter close to the mid is helpful in integration with minimal processing as well.

It looks much better now Nice work!!

In fact, they are regularly on the opposite ends of the spectrum.

hand truck

I wouldn't say that those subs have all that much in common, but the one I like the least is the SE.

Matlab will be more helpful than Mathematica in the real world. I too learned the wrong one.

barrel cart?

I didn't tell you because I don't remember. Somewhere around 95", I also haven't "verified" the tuning via measurement but the response when listening to tones feels pretty close. It sucks writing equations on a forum but here goes, hopefully you can follow this: Lv = Length of vent in inches Fb = Box tune frequency (plug in your desired tuning) Vb = Volume of box (NET) (cubic inches, to convert from cubic feet multiply by 1728) r = radius of vent in inches (assuming circular, for a rectangular vent you can solve for r by finding the area of the rectangle and setting it equal to Pi*r*r Lv = [(1.463 x (10^7*r*r) ) / (Fb*Fb*Vb)] - 1.463*r

You pretty much have to build your own, or hire someone to build to your specifications. There are a ton of quality options it will really depend on your budget. I would encourage you to have a box built and then tell us what you don't like about it. It will give us a much more clear path to help you select new gear. Your $6900 comment has me dying to ask what you built for a motor as well as any other things you have done to your ride.

Was there something in particular that you didn't like about them? Knowing will be really helpful in narrowing down your choices.

Sure, for a low power requirement. Actually I think it is for a little TV

Is your back okay from carrying them?

You doing a full active 3 way? Had you bought the 9887 and mixed it with amps with crossovers you might have gotten there... Now, you are left with using an H701 or similar device to split up your signals.

ttt

My box is .64 and tuned to 29hz. I did the calc's by hand and didn't use an online port calculator as I don't trust any of them.