August 13, 200718 yr Author I would wait to mount the tweets until you get the mids in and are able to listen to both locations ( or maybe if different places if needed ) . that's how i'll do it then. thanks btw, ever put a scope on your 9813 ? just wondering where yours starts to clip how about orientating the mids ? they will be placed in the door because i have a manual and big feet
August 13, 200718 yr I wonder who the noob was who used two different colored fuses on his eclipse ea4000 before he sold it to you... oh wait. It was me. Glad it found a new home.
August 13, 200718 yr Author I wonder who the noob was who used two different colored fuses on his eclipse ea4000 before he sold it to you... oh wait. It was me. Glad it found a new home.*giggles*2 colour fuses = funky :cool32: thank you for the deal it was a major pita fitting 2 gauge in those tiny terminals
August 13, 200718 yr I would wait to mount the tweets until you get the mids in and are able to listen to both locations ( or maybe if different places if needed ) . that's how i'll do it then. thanks btw, ever put a scope on your 9813 ? just wondering where yours starts to clip how about orientating the mids ? they will be placed in the door because i have a manual and big feet mine starts clipping around 29-30 iirc . Not much you can do with them in the doors besides deaden the poo poo out of the doors , and isolate the baffles as much as possible. You could try a slight angle up and towards the center , but I'm not sure it would help much
August 14, 200718 yr Why didn't you just mount under the rear seat? It seems like you went through a lot to get it to mount under the front.
August 14, 200718 yr Author I would wait to mount the tweets until you get the mids in and are able to listen to both locations ( or maybe if different places if needed ) . that's how i'll do it then. thanks btw, ever put a scope on your 9813 ? just wondering where yours starts to clip how about orientating the mids ? they will be placed in the door because i have a manual and big feet mine starts clipping around 29-30 iirc . Not much you can do with them in the doors besides deaden the poo poo out of the doors , and isolate the baffles as much as possible. You could try a slight angle up and towards the center , but I'm not sure it would help much seems like i'll need a little more play-time with the scope wired up. going with the mids flat on the door seemed like the easiest way
August 14, 200718 yr Author Why didn't you just mount under the rear seat? It seems like you went through a lot to get it to mount under the front. tried it with the sub amp, which is considerably smaller than the 4 channel and i couldn't fit it maybe the 4 door is diffrent from the 2 door in regards to rear seat size ?
August 20, 200718 yr Author we've got power captain ! not connected yet to the battery. and i still have to do the big 3. well, more like big 1 because only the alternator to battery positive will get done first. teh distro "in action" lego time ! as soon as i was done with the wiring my tow bar showed up
September 4, 200718 yr Author outer skin finally done on both doorsthe mli's have a humungus basket and it obviously didn't fit through the stock opening. it was time to bust out the trusty sheet metal scissor (sp?)almost there with mounting the head unit. i need to pull it out again and make some bigger holes in the bracket because the way it it now, it sits too much inside the dash and i can't mount the trim ring seems like the lcd display on the scope isn't extremely accurate. but at least i can tell volume 30 is clean (2nd pic) still waiting for some more deadener. the front doors need a bit more deadener and the rear doors are done ( 1 layer on the outer skin)i need to call the guy at the milling shop, so i can order the aluminum rings and then it's time to hear the mli's
September 5, 200718 yr Author ah, the moment i've been waiting for some time :it was a beyotch to widen the holes in the brackets but i know it's not going anywhere
September 6, 200718 yr Author Glad you are making progress!!wish i could get more done but i'm having trouble finding aluminum. 10mm is a bit thin if i decide on using mdf for the rings
September 15, 200717 yr Author i know you missed me since the guy at the milling shop didn't have 10mm or 5 mm Al, i bought some electric insulation material. 10mm thick, really light and strong. no troubles taping the mounting holes. here's how the stuff looks : really router friendly and seems like a cool alternative to mdf for ~$5 / lbthis is what i've managed to do today
September 23, 200717 yr where did you get that electric insulation stuff to make your baffles with???
September 23, 200717 yr Author local electric supply shop. same place i bought my wires from. don't ask me how it's called. i'm not from the us and i have no clue what's called in english
September 26, 200717 yr Author i have fought the urge to listeon too long. but with the mli's installed and gains set, i gave them a whirl. holy mid-bass batman they play really nice down to ~60hz. not going to say anything about the rest of the spectrum as they're still stiff. i've also thrown the tweeters on the dash and played a little with time alignment.onto the pics : free closed cell foam ftw !thickness of the modelling clayall done (only took pics of the passenger side)
October 13, 200717 yr Author thanks here's one more ... couldn't have done it without the advice you guys gave me in the ihop
October 13, 200717 yr Why didnt you pull that panel out pop out that inner panel and glass the cavity behind it then you wouldn't stick out real far past the side and you could deaden seal and foam behind it while you are at it. I am not putting you down i was just wondering though. iy looks awesome for what you have done so far. and it seems like you are glassing like a pro. have a great day. Z
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.