Alright guys need some help here, since my car is in the shop and there working on the front im allowed to work with the stereo. Now i have 1 run of o gauge power wire from my front bat to the back to bats and i ahve a 200 amp alt should i add another run or two or is one run fine? just kinda wondering and i got 0 gauge jsut sitting aorund i need to use lol

Alright guys need some help here, since my car is in the shop and there working on the front im allowed to work with the stereo. Now i have 1 run of o gauge power wire from my front bat to the back to bats and i ahve a 200 amp alt should i add another run or two or is one run fine? just kinda wondering and i got 0 gauge jsut sitting aorund i need to use lol

what are you running amp wise? what ohm? how often do you beat it @ high volumes

We had 2 runs of power and ground in our Explorer with 3 saz1500d. they got a little warm, so we added 4 more runs and now the amps never get hot at all.

2 sundown saz3000ds at 2 ohm strapped and 2 fi btls fully loaded

Oh god yes. At least two runs for each amp.

theres a battery for each in the back so should i run 2 runs to each battery? or 4 runs to each battery?

Minimum of 2 runs per batt.

Hopefully Jacob will pipe up here and give you Current draw on the 3000D's. I know its a ton.

Depending on the load the 3000D can exceed 400 amps of draw.

In general, on an actual 1 ohm speaker load they will draw ~300 amps or so.

adding the two runs tomorrow then i will just double grounw the batteries which wont be to bad at all might do three runs have to see how much wire i have

also what you think of running the runs of wire directly from the alt? been wondering but never seen it done. i have a bus bar i can custom make for it. i have a exessive amperage 250 amp alt might not be a bad idea but then again it could

That would be good.

It'd be just like running to the stock battery.

Make sure to fuse on both ends though since the wire is so long.

shouldnt be a problem i will do two runs tomorrow and connect it to the alt and fuse it and see how it goes also need to finsh the big 3

also do the grounds have to be ran the same as the power or if i have a ground area on the car can i do that also would save some wire for possibly more runs and thanks again for the help

for every 1 positive run, you should have 1 negative run

is there a reason why it cant be grounded to the chassis of the vehicle? jw cause i learned that longer your ground the more resistance in the voltage

is there a reason why it cant be grounded to the chassis of the vehicle? jw cause i learned that longer your ground the more resistance in the voltage

i think it sould depend on the vechile because some have all aluminon uni bodys etc but the one thing that i did hear is that with a negtive ground run you have a better chance of getting a ground loop.

is there a reason why it cant be grounded to the chassis of the vehicle? jw cause i learned that longer your ground the more resistance in the voltage

i think it sould depend on the vechile because some have all aluminon uni bodys etc but the one thing that i did hear is that with a negtive ground run you have a better chance of getting a ground loop.

That's not really true as far as the mythical ground loop goes. It might happen if you had bad connections.

But length of wire will have nothing to do with it.

It does honestly depend on the body of the car though if you should run seperate grounds or not.

Take a DMM and attach one lead to the positive of the battery and then attach one lead to your prospective ground point. Measure in Ohms. It should read as close to 0 ohms as possible. After you measure the chassis resistance run a piece of wire the length of the vehicle and then measure resistance off of it.

Which ever is closest to 0 ohms is the grounding method you should use.

i use my DMM to help me find a good ground i look for a location that givs me a 0ohm reading... anything higher than 0ohm gives a buzzzzzzzzzzzzing in the sub

with that kind of currant draw,

pics please id like to see how your connecting more than 1 oga wire to the power plant up front im green with envy... i want another 3000d

i only have 1 for now

sorry for thread jacking

is there a reason why it cant be grounded to the chassis of the vehicle? jw cause i learned that longer your ground the more resistance in the voltage

i think it sould depend on the vechile because some have all aluminon uni bodys etc but the one thing that i did hear is that with a negtive ground run you have a better chance of getting a ground loop.

That's not really true as far as the mythical ground loop goes. It might happen if you had bad connections.

But length of wire will have nothing to do with it.

It does honestly depend on the body of the car though if you should run seperate grounds or not.

Take a DMM and attach one lead to the positive of the battery and then attach one lead to your prospective ground point. Measure in Ohms. It should read as close to 0 ohms as possible. After you measure the chassis resistance run a piece of wire the length of the vehicle and then measure resistance off of it.

Which ever is closest to 0 ohms is the grounding method you should use.

uhh, you definitely don't want to use the positive battery terminal, instead use the negative one

people have tested and tested and tested the more wire the louder and better your system will run.one guy tested after each run of wire and said he would gain 1 tenth each run.I think this is for most of the comp vehicle's not for daily driver's.but if you have too run 1 battery run a few strand's of zero gauge. my 2 3000's will not run with only 2 run of 0gauge but with 4 run's I can get one full burp @ 1ohm strapped. the more wire the better

so your recommeneding 4 runs of + and 4 runs of - is that correct then the same between each battery if thats correct?