So what dumb move did he do to do that lovely cut? Hopefully he learns and has zero permanent damage. I took a guy to the local health center the other month for trying to catch a spinning piece of sheet metal in the drill press.

Tried to grab spinning sheet metal? SRSLY?

Yes people react and things like that happen.

Yep. Guy was drilling holes using a regular drill bit without using powerfeed, caught, pulled up, and he instinctively went to catch it since 'hey, it was moving, it is not supposed to do that'. Wham, wham, wham, three large chunks of skin off three fingers.

To those who don't know this yet. GO BUY A STEP DRILL FOR DOING THIN SHEET WORK. Yes, they are expensive, but yes, they are awesome.

Step drill?

One of these.

http://www.amazon.co...52950189&sr=8-8

Rofl, I thought you meant a type of drill and not drill bit. Was dumbfounded since I hadn't heard of one. Also didn't realize that is what you call those, but I have one

They work great for plastics too. They drill from the inside out.

Good to hear. I'm not a big fan of multiplayer since it seems like I get dumped in games with guys 40+ levels ahead of me and I get smoked every time. I do love the campaigns though, so good to hear it is well done.

I had the opposite problem. Unreal Tournament got me good. Pretty much got bored as there was never anyone to play against that I couldn't destroy. Of course 8+ hours a day for pretty much a year ought to up the skill level. Got off of it and haven't gamedsince.

where you this guy? hahaha

Todays jam...

I seriously just had one of the most amazing mangoes ever..huge fruit with a tiny pit.... Delicious Qatari mangoes...

Sitting in the airport. Woke up at 130 this morning to drive 2 hours and make a 610 flight. I got through security by 430 and boarding doesn't start until 535

Sitting in the airport. Woke up at 130 this morning to drive 2 hours and make a 610 flight. I got through security by 430 and boarding doesn't start until 535

Yeah I hate that.. at bigger airports I don't usually show up until an hour prior..

From Kansas to England we had to show up 2 hours prior and our jet ended up slipping so we didn't leave till like 12... Our show time was like 6am lol

Curious if there is anyway to test my rectifier to make sure it is diode protected. That would take away the need for the relay.

Use a scope or a multimeter. If you go to DC on a meter and it displays a constant, likely (12 volt is most likely) voltage you have DC current. With a scope you can just look at the pattern.

Sorry, I meant a zener diode protecting current from going back in if I run an AC line in parallel with the DC coming out of the rectifier. And if that is what you were telling me, it went right over my drunk head.

So you want to add a diode after a rectifier? Why? Rectifiers are diode chains. They convert AC to DC.

I know what the rectifier does.

I have 2 12AC lines. I want one <12v DC line and one 12vDC line. (Tail light and brake to an LED)

Most cheap rectifiers cannot handle AC on the outputs so if I run the two in parallel I may fry the rectifier. In this case the "cheap" rectifier is $40 so I don't want to cook it. I know I can just build my own for both leads and add a voltage divider and be golden, but if there is a way to make sure the output is zener protected of the rectifier that I have I don't have to do jack. Hell the rewiring is almost plug and play at that point and won't even require the soldering iron.

I realize that was confusing. I just am not sure how to test it without having access to the diode bridge on the inside.

I work with electricity every day. I will generally be working on drivability stuff for ~8 hours of my 10 hour day. I stare at diagrams all day long. And the sad thing is, I can't read a trouble tree. I generally have a hard time putting words into pictures or actions... which in my professions is likely a good thing. Trouble trees tend to lead people the long way around and they usually wind up with the wrong diagnosis. I think one of the best examples is a Ford DPFE test. They want you to remove the wiring harness from a sensor and the EGR solenoid and the ECM check for continuity on 6 wires. Then check for vacuum going to the solenoid, then remove the EGR valve and check for carbon, if all is well, replace the DPFE. This diag would take about an hour to an hour and a half. I read the "description and operation" section of the system I am testing, pull up wiring diagrams, and go my own route. After doing so, I figured that I could easily test everything in the system by simply starting the vehicle, and grounding the EGR solenoid. If the car stumbles and/or almost stalls I have tested and proven the entire system works. All my wires are in tact, there is vacuum to the EGR solenoid and valve when it is opened, and the passages are open (if they were plugged the valve would open but the car would not stumble/stall). I can have it diagnosed in ~5 minutes

I guess instead of babbling I should just say, have you got a diagram of your system? If so, I can tell you if it will work

So what dumb move did he do to do that lovely cut? Hopefully he learns and has zero permanent damage. I took a guy to the local health center the other month for trying to catch a spinning piece of sheet metal in the drill press.

Tried to grab spinning sheet metal? SRSLY?

Yes people react and things like that happen.

Yep. Guy was drilling holes using a regular drill bit without using powerfeed, caught, pulled up, and he instinctively went to catch it since 'hey, it was moving, it is not supposed to do that'. Wham, wham, wham, three large chunks of skin off three fingers.

To those who don't know this yet. GO BUY A STEP DRILL FOR DOING THIN SHEET WORK. Yes, they are expensive, but yes, they are awesome.

Step drill?

One of these.

http://www.amazon.co...52950189&sr=8-8

Rofl, I thought you meant a type of drill and not drill bit. Was dumbfounded since I hadn't heard of one. Also didn't realize that is what you call those, but I have one

Yep, step drill, step bit, unibit, all the same. A single flute cutter works awesome on thin stuff, no pulling when it starts to break through. I've even resharpened them with a dremel when the need arises

Curious if there is anyway to test my rectifier to make sure it is diode protected. That would take away the need for the relay.

Use a scope or a multimeter. If you go to DC on a meter and it displays a constant, likely (12 volt is most likely) voltage you have DC current. With a scope you can just look at the pattern.

Sorry, I meant a zener diode protecting current from going back in if I run an AC line in parallel with the DC coming out of the rectifier. And if that is what you were telling me, it went right over my drunk head.

So you want to add a diode after a rectifier? Why? Rectifiers are diode chains. They convert AC to DC.

I know what the rectifier does.

I have 2 12AC lines. I want one <12v DC line and one 12vDC line. (Tail light and brake to an LED)

Most cheap rectifiers cannot handle AC on the outputs so if I run the two in parallel I may fry the rectifier. In this case the "cheap" rectifier is $40 so I don't want to cook it. I know I can just build my own for both leads and add a voltage divider and be golden, but if there is a way to make sure the output is zener protected of the rectifier that I have I don't have to do jack. Hell the rewiring is almost plug and play at that point and won't even require the soldering iron.

I realize that was confusing. I just am not sure how to test it without having access to the diode bridge on the inside.

I work with electricity every day. I will generally be working on drivability stuff for ~8 hours of my 10 hour day. I stare at diagrams all day long. And the sad thing is, I can't read a trouble tree. I generally have a hard time putting words into pictures or actions... which in my professions is likely a good thing. Trouble trees tend to lead people the long way around and they usually wind up with the wrong diagnosis. I think one of the best examples is a Ford DPFE test. They want you to remove the wiring harness from a sensor and the EGR solenoid and the ECM check for continuity on 6 wires. Then check for vacuum going to the solenoid, then remove the EGR valve and check for carbon, if all is well, replace the DPFE. This diag would take about an hour to an hour and a half. I read the "description and operation" section of the system I am testing, pull up wiring diagrams, and go my own route. After doing so, I figured that I could easily test everything in the system by simply starting the vehicle, and grounding the EGR solenoid. If the car stumbles and/or almost stalls I have tested and proven the entire system works. All my wires are in tact, there is vacuum to the EGR solenoid and valve when it is opened, and the passages are open (if they were plugged the valve would open but the car would not stumble/stall). I can have it diagnosed in ~5 minutes

I guess instead of babbling I should just say, have you got a diagram of your system? If so, I can tell you if it will work

If I had a diagram I'd know if it was Zener protected so I couldn't backfeed into the rectifier. Considering I don't I am not sure how to test for one as without the diagram or insight into the rectifier itself I am clueless as to what is in it.

My guess is that it is uber simple:

However to make it robust it should be protected on the output via a Zener in addition. Considering the rednecks that normally ride and modify snowmobiles my guess is that it is there, but I don't know how to confirm.

Jack is dreaming hard today.

Somedays I don't think he is chasing the bunnies, but some huge deamon bunny is chasing him. It is cute though.

Sean, no hieroglyphics. I are not Egyptian!

Haven't been paying much attention Sean, is that a transformer feeding a full wave rectifier with a resistive load?

It is a rectifier, and the resistive load could be any load on the system. If you were to have no load in the diagram, and someone were to follow it to a T, you would have no more rectifier bridge.

Sean, why are you wanting to use a zener? Is there no regulator in the system?

So what dumb move did he do to do that lovely cut? Hopefully he learns and has zero permanent damage. I took a guy to the local health center the other month for trying to catch a spinning piece of sheet metal in the drill press.

Tried to grab spinning sheet metal? SRSLY?

Yes people react and things like that happen.

Yep. Guy was drilling holes using a regular drill bit without using powerfeed, caught, pulled up, and he instinctively went to catch it since 'hey, it was moving, it is not supposed to do that'. Wham, wham, wham, three large chunks of skin off three fingers.

To those who don't know this yet. GO BUY A STEP DRILL FOR DOING THIN SHEET WORK. Yes, they are expensive, but yes, they are awesome.

Step drill?

One of these.

http://www.amazon.co...52950189&sr=8-8

Rofl, I thought you meant a type of drill and not drill bit. Was dumbfounded since I hadn't heard of one. Also didn't realize that is what you call those, but I have one

Yep, step drill, step bit, unibit, all the same. A single flute cutter works awesome on thin stuff, no pulling when it starts to break through. I've even resharpened them with a dremel when the need arises

I really need to get one of those bits. It sucks drilling sheetmetal with regular drill bits.

Got the coolant leak. Used a copper pipe instead of a splice. The break was above the engine.

:-)

However she is misfiring like a muh fukka.

Haven't been paying much attention Sean, is that a transformer feeding a full wave rectifier with a resistive load?

AC Generator from the sled to DC Rectifier to brake lever to brake light. Tail light on AC.

It is a rectifier, and the resistive load could be any load on the system. If you were to have no load in the diagram, and someone were to follow it to a T, you would have no more rectifier bridge.

Sean, why are you wanting to use a zener? Is there no regulator in the system?

It's AC Regulated before the rectifier.

The Zener is ONLY to protect the rectifier. Backfeeding voltage into a rectifier can fry the other diode's thus netting me a $40 expense or $10 and some soldering time and frustration.

Went to get some coffee at a place here that roasts their own beans, but they closed at 2pm. I may have to hit them up in the morning.

It is a rectifier, and the resistive load could be any load on the system. If you were to have no load in the diagram, and someone were to follow it to a T, you would have no more rectifier bridge.

Sean, why are you wanting to use a zener? Is there no regulator in the system?

It's AC Regulated before the rectifier.

The Zener is ONLY to protect the rectifier. Backfeeding voltage into a rectifier can fry the other diode's thus netting me a $40 expense or $10 and some soldering time and frustration.

A zener allows a backfeed if the voltages are too high. The rectifier should handle the AC. there should be no backfeed after the rectifier converts it to DC, unless the output voltage is skewed by a bad rectifier.

I have to amend this. I missed the fact that it was AC regulated. You need to have some type of a voltage regulator on the DC output. Basically I would run the vehicle and look at the output voltage. To achieve this you can add any load whatsoever. I don't care if it is just a 12 volt lightbulb, you need to prevent the output from being a dead short. So take the 2 wire DC output, put a bulb in the circuit, and use a DVOM set to DC voltage with positive at the positive, and the negative to the negative. If it is supposed to be a 6 volt system, you should see 6 volts across the load. A 12 volt, 12 volts. Expect to see a slightly higher output (say 7 and 14 respectively) as the output needs to be slightly higher to charge the battery.

Does that make sense?