This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.com/articles/how-make-two-layer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

Some good ideas there

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.com/articles/how-make-two-layer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

Some good ideas there

There's a few things I'll be looking back to when I redo my kicks. One thing for sure, I'm not going to use the stock plastic kick panel, but replace it entirely with fiberglass.

This was my original ones, I scuffed up the plastic, and added layers on either side:

But it didn't adhere well enough and on the bottom edges it gave way a little bit, perhaps if I drilled holes through.

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.c...ayer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick.

I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms.

Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

I myself am not a huge fan of kicks. I like my foot space, I'm thinking of doing some new simple door pods...

What will remove armor all? I can never get it off to allow me to stick tape to anything.

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.c...ayer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick.

I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms.

Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

It's not holding any weight nor is it structural, so there's really no need for the mat.

Keep at it until it's right.

I modeled my drivers in winISD, small enclosure verse IB, and IB doesn't model any better in terms of output, slightly more rounded over FR. But I like the idea of opening up the back so both drivers see the same volume, and have closer frequency responses.

Good luck getting just the way you want it. Vented and some polyfil and they should sound great. I think fleece and a few layers of the woven mat are more than strong enough. The ass on the Anarchy's probably isn't helping the pods get any smaller either. Are you planing to start with seperate rings next time or a single baffle again?

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.c...ayer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick.

I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms.

Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

I myself am not a huge fan of kicks. I like my foot space, I'm thinking of doing some new simple door pods...

What will remove armor all? I can never get it off to allow me to stick tape to anything.

My kicks are huge and do take up a lot of space, sucks for long periods or driving, and likely annoys passengers, but I'm not sure how well I could replicate the current sound with anything in my doors.

The armor all is just on plastic paneling? You could try brake cleaner, brake cleaner gets everything off everything, just not good on paint.

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.c...ayer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick.

I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms.

Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

I myself am not a huge fan of kicks. I like my foot space, I'm thinking of doing some new simple door pods...

What will remove armor all? I can never get it off to allow me to stick tape to anything.

Alcohol, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, etc. . . Be very careful with the stronger solvents as they can melt plastic.

Ok should I make a thread for this? I need to know!

Are 3 JL 12w0 worth a 30 pack of Coors light? The JL's are from the 90's and in good shape.

Just kidding. I did give one of my mechanics beer for these 3 subs.

Keep at it until it's right.

I modeled my drivers in winISD, small enclosure verse IB, and IB doesn't model any better in terms of output, slightly more rounded over FR. But I like the idea of opening up the back so both drivers see the same volume, and have closer frequency responses.

Good luck getting just the way you want it. Vented and some polyfil and they should sound great. I think fleece and a few layers of the woven mat are more than strong enough. The ass on the Anarchy's probably isn't helping the pods get any smaller either. Are you planing to start with seperate rings next time or a single baffle again?

This was the start from the current ones:

Then I found out it was just too big, so I trimmed around the edges to this:

But the shape was lost and looks like shit. I think I'll make the new ones like I started with, but there won't be a space between the mid and tweeter, and I'll trim ALL the wood around the drivers.

Thinking about using veneer edge banding around the edges, this will make the baffle recessed a bit, and give me room to make a grill cover.

Ok should I make a thread for this? I need to know!

Are 3 JL 12w0 worth a 30 pack of Coors light? The JL's are from the 90's and in good shape.

Just kidding. I did give one of my mechanics beer for these 3 subs.

good deal

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.c...ayer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick.

I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms.

Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

It's not holding any weight nor is it structural, so there's really no need for the mat.

I guess in that situation the drivers are small, and don't create much force, so it's fine, but for larger kick panels and larger drivers, it wouldn't suffice?

Ok should I make a thread for this? I need to know!

Are 3 JL 12w0 worth a 30 pack of Coors light? The JL's are from the 90's and in good shape.

Just kidding. I did give one of my mechanics beer for these 3 subs.

good deal

I thought so when I saw them. They are 12 ohm so I will need to keep all 3 together to get a 4 ohm mono load. I plan on putting them in my son's jeep.

Ok should I make a thread for this? I need to know!

Are 3 JL 12w0 worth a 30 pack of Coors light? The JL's are from the 90's and in good shape.

Just kidding. I did give one of my mechanics beer for these 3 subs.

good deal

I thought so when I saw them. They are 12 ohm so I will need to keep all 3 together to get a 4 ohm mono load. I plan on putting them in my son's jeep.

What model jeep?

Keep at it until it's right.

I modeled my drivers in winISD, small enclosure verse IB, and IB doesn't model any better in terms of output, slightly more rounded over FR. But I like the idea of opening up the back so both drivers see the same volume, and have closer frequency responses.

Good luck getting just the way you want it. Vented and some polyfil and they should sound great. I think fleece and a few layers of the woven mat are more than strong enough. The ass on the Anarchy's probably isn't helping the pods get any smaller either. Are you planing to start with seperate rings next time or a single baffle again?

This was the start from the current ones:

Then I found out it was just too big, so I trimmed around the edges to this:

But the shape was lost and looks like shit. I think I'll make the new ones like I started with, but there won't be a space between the mid and tweeter, and I'll trim ALL the wood around the drivers.

Thinking about using veneer edge banding around the edges, this will make the baffle recessed a bit, and give me room to make a grill cover.

The edge banding won't be thick enough. YOu will need something with some integrity. If you have a furniture or fabric store nearby, check them for a cardboard trim.

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.c...ayer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick.

I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms.

Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

It's not holding any weight nor is it structural, so there's really no need for the mat.

I guess in that situation the drivers are small, and don't create much force, so it's fine, but for larger kick panels and larger drivers, it wouldn't suffice?

It's all going to be application dependent.

ZJ IIRC

Ok should I make a thread for this? I need to know!

Are 3 JL 12w0 worth a 30 pack of Coors light? The JL's are from the 90's and in good shape.

Just kidding. I did give one of my mechanics beer for these 3 subs.

good deal

I thought so when I saw them. They are 12 ohm so I will need to keep all 3 together to get a 4 ohm mono load. I plan on putting them in my son's jeep.

Must be nice.

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.c...ayer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick.

I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms.

Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

I myself am not a huge fan of kicks. I like my foot space, I'm thinking of doing some new simple door pods...

What will remove armor all? I can never get it off to allow me to stick tape to anything.

Alcohol, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, etc. . . Be very careful with the stronger solvents as they can melt plastic.

I love alcohol as a grease and oil remover; even works in a pinch if you don't have shampoo

Ok should I make a thread for this? I need to know!

Are 3 JL 12w0 worth a 30 pack of Coors light? The JL's are from the 90's and in good shape.

Just kidding. I did give one of my mechanics beer for these 3 subs.

good deal

I thought so when I saw them. They are 12 ohm so I will need to keep all 3 together to get a 4 ohm mono load. I plan on putting them in my son's jeep.

What model jeep?

I bought him a 97 GC limited last year.

ZJ IIRC

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.c...ayer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

They definetly make it look easy. lol. My dash pods are box carpet (felt) with no mat. The fleece works good too. With just resin its already an 1/8" thick.

I'm sure the thick fleece adds thickness, but it's still just resin, mat is where the strength comes from. I guess if it's something small then it could work, but I don't see any good reason for skipping the mat, other then it sucks getting on your arms.

Rebuilding my kicks in a few weeks, going to make them a little differently, hopefully they'll look better, be stronger, and sound better.

I myself am not a huge fan of kicks. I like my foot space, I'm thinking of doing some new simple door pods...

What will remove armor all? I can never get it off to allow me to stick tape to anything.

Alcohol, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner, acetone, etc. . . Be very careful with the stronger solvents as they can melt plastic.

I tried denatured alcohol last time when I made my kicks and it wouldn't come off or stick. Hmmm.

Ok should I make a thread for this? I need to know!

Are 3 JL 12w0 worth a 30 pack of Coors light? The JL's are from the 90's and in good shape.

Just kidding. I did give one of my mechanics beer for these 3 subs.

good deal

I thought so when I saw them. They are 12 ohm so I will need to keep all 3 together to get a 4 ohm mono load. I plan on putting them in my son's jeep.

Must be nice.

He was going to give them to me, but I did not feel that was proper. I told him that I had to give him something in return and that is how the beer came about. I will post som pictures tomorrow when I have more time.

This amazes me: http://caraudiomag.com/articles/how-make-two-layer-kickpanels

Kicks look pretty stellar huh, only thing missing is actual fiberglass mat,

Some good ideas there

There's a few things I'll be looking back to when I redo my kicks. One thing for sure, I'm not going to use the stock plastic kick panel, but replace it entirely with fiberglass.

This was my original ones, I scuffed up the plastic, and added layers on either side:

But it didn't adhere well enough and on the bottom edges it gave way a little bit, perhaps if I drilled holes through.

I did mine by keeping as little as possible from the stock kick-panel. Passenger side was easy...driver's side is a killer though. I haven't figured a final solution to the driver's side kick in 2 years.

I'm lucky I don't have to deal with a hood release.

The edge banding I have is fairly thick, I've wrapped it around some baffles I made earlier, and they don't bend or give in any way.

How thick is the cardboard trim?

Sean, Adrian, or Brad would you guys be interested in identifying some parts in the suckmydick dd-1 internals? I have a friend who is willing to let me take his apart!